Hey guys

I have a 1.6 with stock clutch and t25 (sr20) my clutch is now slipping.

the price of the f1 stage three is very attractive but from searching it seems to be general consensus is its fine to 200 or so whp (its rated to 210tq) and some were running it sucessfully at 250whp(?tq) but didnt state whether it was with the 1.8 flywheel.

my goals are to reach 250whp

so the question is:

what tq numbers roughly does a t25 (2554) make at 200whp (~15psi)?

what about a 2560 at 250whp?

and last question is at what boost level roughly does a 2560 reach 250whp on a 1.6 with decent manifold 2.5" exhaust diypnp (stock head)?

 

FMI and dont worry about the rest (need a stock 1.8L flywheel)

 

I had great experiences with my F1 racing flywheel, but it's a puck clutch.

If you've never driven a puck clutch before, well, think twice and try it before jumping in headfirst.

 

FM2 or 949.

 

Puck clutch = hell on driveline and engine mounts. I had the FM happy meal for a couple years and it was every bit of perfect. Well worth its weight in gold. I now have the 10lb flywheel with a Competition Clutch 6-puck disc and it requires perfect engagement otherwise it will shudder horribly. The next time I have to replace the clutch, it will be with the FM clutch.

I'm hoping the Carbing trans brace I just got will help, I'll know tonight.

 

I'm in love with the FMII clutch in Jeff's car. The pedal is very light, almost like my stock daily clutch, engages smoothly, holds the his weakling torque, and the light flywheel is nice. The 949 twin would be nice but is buy the OSG diff first. God I want that diff.

 

I have to say he should go with an FMI clutch instead of the FMII. With a stock motor there is no way you will make more power then the FMI can handle without blowing it. If you have a built motor then my recommendation changes to the FMII or 949 if you are baller.

Also you will not make 250hp at the wheel with a 1.6 and t25 off an SR20. You will be lucky to hit 225hp and about 215-225ft/lbs of torque.

 

Won't the FMII last longer? As I see it, due to the light pedal, there is no reason to to lighter. Why not over-clutch if there is no compromise?

 

The FMI is already overkill, it is rated for something like 318ft/lbs, far above what any stock motor will take.

I have driven both the FMI and FMII back to back. The FMI was in a 97 with a FFS and the FMII was in my car. There is a noticeable pedal stiffness difference. While the FMII is less stiff then my old ACT that held less torque, it is still a good bit stiffer then the FMI. If you don't need the extra torque rating no reason to deal with a stiffer clutch that costs more if it is not needed.

As for a difference in how long the 2 will last I have no clue. I honestly don't think that the FMII will last any longer then the FMI, but that is a complete guess.

 

I'm curious about the wear aspect as well.

I'm about to buy a 'happy meal' from FM and was proceeding with Hustler's mind set of "why not over clutch".

Now I'm questioning that logic since everyone seems to be running the FM1 with success. I'm running a TD04-15g at around 12-15 psi so I doubt I'll make more than 210-235 whp ... it's definitely not a need.

-Zach

 

You guys must be ladyboys. Jeff's FMII is so easy to push down I would not think twice about getting it for a daily driver.

Paging FM on the wear issue! Please pick-up the red courtesy phone.

 

I'm just trying to stop the bleeding ... an extra 50 bucks buys me 10 more feet of PTFE hose and

Make money money, spend money money.

-Zach

 

this is the answer I was expecting but not the one I wanted to hear as money is tight but do it right do it once.

sad part about living in aus is we have terrible prices and to import a clutch from america costs an extra $100 so a fm1 will come to about 500-550 depending on how much I can pick up a s/h bp flywheel.


I realise a t25 wont get me there imo I think i'll struggle to get 210 out of it and will probs only get 200whp. Thankyou for the torque figure as ive been looking through the dyno section and its relatively hard to find 1.6 with t25 at ~210hp and its even harder to get some stats on a 1.6 with 2560 at 250hp.

so next question is will a 2560 bring my car up to ~250whp or is there something im missing?

this and the fact I daily drive are also very compelling arguements for fm1.

Id love a 949 twin plate but I dont have the mulah nor the need.
depending on money I may up the clutch to the fm2 just to make it not a limit if my goals change in the future.

Cheers guys

 

Just because something can handle the duties of more power does not mean it will last longer if not utilized to its potential. It just means that it will do its intended job better. Do you think running around (daily driving) with Hawk blues/black wouild last longer than a HP+ ? I don't see them lasting longer, but being more of a mess over the same time period.

Maybe a dumb analgy, but that's how I've always looked at that situation for heavy duty/race parts on a street car.