Cheapest clutch to handle ~200rwhp ?
I recently traded my Miata for a JDM WRX (I like the Miata better,but I need something more practical)...But the new owner (which is a girl ;D) will continue my work on the car.She's on a budget too,so we're looking for a cheap clutch that can handle around 200rwhp.
What do you suggest ?
The car is a '92 1.6
What do you suggest ?
The car is a '92 1.6
FM's level 1-really easy to use and NOT any stiffer than stock. No experience with egay clutches. ACT HD is about $50 cheaper, but holds a lot less. Still enough for you. Sure someone else will chime in with a deal. Personally I tend to stick with a "name" brand clutch. Never had an off brand one personally, but been around several people that cheeped out and regretted it. Chatter, slipped, odd feel.
I had an ebay clutch that I was very happy with until I exceeded the tq rating and it went out. If she really is sticking with 200whp and has the ability to do it herself or con some guy into doing it for her ebay is a great option IMO. $100 vs $350 is a big difference.
Ug, I did this with an eBay clutch. With a flywheel surface and OEM throw out bearing, they're great clutches. However it's one of my biggest regrets. It's the only thing keeping it from being truly streetable, since the 6 puck clutch is an on/off switch. Anything else won't hold 200tqs, so once you get a streetable 200tq clutch you're either at ACT or FM.
I just installed an FM1 and I still can't believe that it feels so much like stock. If your friend is concerned with pedal weight, you can't go wrong with it, and it'll hold long past the stock rods will so there's room for her to increase power quite a bit.
Ug, I did this with an eBay clutch. With a flywheel surface and OEM throw out bearing, they're great clutches. However it's one of my biggest regrets. It's the only thing keeping it from being truly streetable, since the 6 puck clutch is an on/off switch. Anything else won't hold 200tqs, so once you get a streetable 200tq clutch you're either at ACT or FM.
Yup, exactly my point. Works wonderfully, but the on/off trait has caught me off guard a number of times. Add in a little hesitation off idle, I've stalled more than I wanna admit.
My f1 stage 3 clutch with 11 lb flywheel performs well. It did give me problems when my car used to overheat. If I let it idle for 15-20 mins it would go a little above half until finally the fan would kick on then I get in try to take off then it starts slipping. I fixed overheating problem and it hasn't done it since. It is like an on off switch but if I stalled I could pop start it at 2mph. EBay is always a gamble but overall I'm happy with it!
My f1 stage 3 clutch with 11 lb flywheel performs well. It did give me problems when my car used to overheat. If I let it idle for 15-20 mins it would go a little above half until finally the fan would kick on then I get in try to take off then it starts slipping. I fixed overheating problem and it hasn't done it since. It is like an on off switch but if I stalled I could pop start it at 2mph. EBay is always a gamble but overall I'm happy with it!
Exactly, I have the f1 racing stg 3 6 puck. Works Great. But Sucks to DD. Not undrivable, just unpleasant, makes you wish you weren't a cheap ***... reverse always shudders. When it gets hot its even MORE sticky and PITA to drive: so when you get stuck in traffic you get to extra hate it. In the grand scheme of things, unless you're completely broke its worth it to get the fm1 for stock block or fm2 for a built motor (unless racecar then 949 twin). If you want a lightweight flywheel the ebay chromoly one is a helluva lot cheaper than the FM one, works just fine.







