I have a set of Web cams 505's that where previously installed in my motor. Im rebuilding the motor and im at the point to install the cams but im a little concerned. The cam tips are shiny, and some chipping on the side of the lobes. from my understanding Web welds and regrinds the cams? Is it possible the shiny at the tip maybe due to the dissimilar weld/casting metals? My brother seems to think that there may have been lots of valve float and the bucket was only making contact with the cam at the tip? Per webs cams website these cams can be used with stock valve train. Should i just run them or pitch them? Im going to email Web to get there opinion but i figured i would ask her first. What could have caused this?

 

Thats common, the coating has wore off the lobe a touch, also cam lobes are gound on an angle, so it will cause the lifter to spin, hence why you have circle marks on top of the lifter.

 

Also, I don't think your brother understands what "valve float" is.

 

so its ok to run them? The lifter did have more of a circular pattern in the center then the stock buckets. should they be re-coated? and if so with what? should i worry about the chipping on the edges? thanks for the input guys! These will be going in to my built head with super tech valve train ( stiffer Supertech springs, titanium retainers, 1+mm valves)

 

Install the buckes in the head, coat tops with moly lube/cam break in lube, coat the cam lobes too... install the cams.

Just make sure whomever installs the valve springs that they set them up proper.

 

Thanks!
I just picked up som of this
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crane-Assemb...#ht_1375wt_804

i was using lucas assembly lube but i guess its not as thick as the moly. I didnt install the springs, i build the head off another mturbo.net user. he never got a chance to run the head. What is needed to know when setting up the valve springs?

 

yes that crane lube is just the ticket, I buy the 1lb tubs of it.. But I use more than the avarage person...

Also, if you run dino oil, at each oil change add a 4oz bottle of Melling lube, red gel.

It will add back the ZDDP, the high pressure lube that they have been dropping out of oil for the past decade or longer.

Well unless you want to pull the springs off the head and check each installed height to ST installed spec. is the only way to know.

Or pray the "machinist" that did the head had half a brain and set them up close to right, and just run the head.

Did you ask what shop did the head? and if so, have other MTers used them?

 

heres the build thread for the head
https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...t=43656&page=2
he metioned in some previous post he send the head to be assembled, stupid me did not ask where. So at this time it maybe just a lot of praying on my end. Next motor im sendin to you!

 

I'm not sure how many oils still have ZDDP, but according to some Blackstone oil sampling I saw on BITOG somewhere, Royal Purple keeps more than enough, even after a good 8k miles or so.

 

Blue bottle Rotella. Similar zinc and phos, half the price.

 

Yes, thank you. I still have some residual nutswinging from before I started scanning the BITOG forums, and it really is a great oil. I have no problem admitting it's not the best, and even the cheapest synthetics nowadays are still just fine.

Rotella is super cheap in bulk and good, underrated stuff. Everyone on BITOG loves Pennzoil Platinum too; cant remember if it comes with zinc or how much though.