Anyone know if a longnose crank from a '92 will go straight over in a '90 block that had the short nose? Basically just looking to replace the block and some internals, and will only be using the new block to put everything back in.

 

No a long nose crank wont fit in the new 1.8 you're building.

 

I believe he's saying don't waste your time with a 1.6.

I concur, but with how cheap 1.6s are, I wouldn't blame you. Lots of 1.8s out there to mess with though.

But yes, it'll all bolt up. Only thing that's different is the pulley, bolt, oil pump, and crank. And some timing bits, like the cog, plastic cover, etc.

 

I don't think converting to a LNC is worth the money. If you ignore your engine, both the SNC and LNC 1.6s are happy to eat their keyways. A SNC can be perfectly reliable so long as you torque it properly + use some Red Loctite and inspect things when you change the timing belt. I run a SNC (including plenty of track time). No problems.

Oh, and DON'T supercharge it. The extra Torque/HP used by a supercharger can literally shear the Woodruff key!! Ask Mobius. Curly remembers that one.

 

My HP goals are at or below about 300, and i was making that before i blew a rod out the side of my block. That being said, i'd like to just put everything back in place (of course with forged internals), and have a minor retune. I have weighed the 1.8, and just dont see it for what my HP goals are, and this is just a street car (toy) for now. The fact that i have my turbo, downpipe and tune all dialed in, i could just swap in a new block stuffed with new bearings and forged rods/pistons (with a 1mm bore) seems to make the most sense for now. If i decide to keep the car for longer that a few more years, i'll build out a nice 1.8 stroker the right way. For now, i am just taking this winter to put her all back together.

So, i have my old crank from the '92 that should be fine, can i drop it, all the new bearings and seals, pulley and bolt from the '92, and a new oil pump (for the '90) into the '90 block without issue?

 

The 1.8 makes a better street car because it makes for a wider power band, and more low end.

Do the smart thing and just slap the used 90 engine into the car without even opening it up, tune the boost down a couple psi, and start putting a 1.8 together.

 

Yes, that one was no fun.

I have also ruined a long nose crank. They're all susceptible without proper torquing. FM cranks tool is a great for that. I think some sloppy torquing, track miles, and inexperience with how sensitive these engine are to the crank bolt lead to that. Take your time.

 

You need the crank, pully and oil pump. But the block itself is the same

 

well played.

 

would it be possible to machine a second keyway to disperse the torque applied to the keyway or even make a beefier keyway and key?

 

Could I machine a second keyway to evenly disperse the torque on the crank and what not, or even beef up the original keyway and key?