I didnt see any results for this. Looks like the last gen Protege with the 1.6 ZM-DE and the 1.5 ZL-VE has the same exact cam sensor as us but with a 90° connector on it. See below. There should be quite a few of these in junk yards even though they only sold them for like 3 years, and they're cheaper to get than the miata ones, should put less stress on the connector/wires, etc. Maybe even be made by someone that doesnt suck a dick so the parts store ones actually dont **** out after being raced on for 30 seconds (literally brand new parts store ones dont last 1 auto-x run).

 

Go on Rockauto/Amazon, buy 2 or 3 of them. They're a pain, but at least they don't leak like the NA ones.

 

Eh, in Lincoln we had 2 brand new mazda ones and 3-4 different brands of parts store ones. They all sucked a dick. The only way I can get a good one right now is to find one in a used miata that doesnt have the mitsubishi symbol. Tri-star logo or parts store brand = teh sucks. I'm sure they do better on 99-00 cars because they dont get as hot or coated in oil. All the parts store ones of various prices/box lables and the two ones bought from mazdaspeed all had the tri-star emblem on them, and the one that came in my engine when I bought it had the tri-star. All **** the bed. I'm running on a used one that I paid more for than the most expensive new one on rockauto, thats been going strong.

 

Is there any way to test these to verify they are good or not? I'm still sorting an electrical gremlin that doesn't show up at autox or street but on the track after a few laps. One of the things I tried was a new, used CAS with similar results but it was suggested to me that the new one could be bad as well.

 

Pretty much mine only shows issues when racing. I can drive it "hard" on the street and it causes no problems. They have various stages of fail. Some of the OEM ones actually work for a while then only suck dicks when they're hot, but then suck all the time. I'm thinking they might all just have something loose inside and it only gets jostled during high G stuff when they're hot or something. I'm considering cutting open one of my shitty ones to see whats going on inside. Optimally if these protege ones dont work out I want to find a hall effect sensor that doesnt suck a dick and adapt it to work.

 

Beware.

Some of these sensors may look like an exact match - they are not.

Case in point: Evo 9 cam sensors. They look 100% like the stock 99-05 Miata sensor, down to the connector angle. They won't work, as they have an inverted output signal compared to the Miata sensor. The engine will never start.

 

But with a stand alone I can just tell it to go on trailing edge then right?

 

Your crank sensor needs to match the polarity. So you need to find a crank sensor with reversed polarity as well. Or at least that's required with a Megasquirt.

You can always build a circuit to reverse polarity but meh.

 

But if the sensor reads high when its not seeing the teeth then reads low over the teeth. The falling edge of the evo sensor would be in the same exact location as the rising edge of the stock sensor.

That circuit would introduce latency though.

 

On the order of nanoseconds if you used something like a 74LS04.

 

I wonder what's on Leafy's mind today.

 

Deleted for lack of intelligence reasons.

 

I kind of had been trying to figure how to fit a universal sensor and not have oil ******* spew everywhere. I also have an in with a BWD R&D lab guy that I need to message and see if he can work on making BWD sell a sensor that fits out cars that doesnt suck a dick.

 

I don't believe that on a '99 any of the angle sensors are touching the oil, so that shouldn't be a problem.

 

Yeah but the 99-00 is only 2 years where as the 01-05 is 4 years and does touch oil with the same sensor. I'm also sure the VVT motors go through more cam sensors than the 99 engines.

 

Ok looks like used Evo cam sensors are stupid cheap on ebay. I'm just going to buy one and see if it works or not. Even if its NC rather than NO thats only a small change in the EMS4.

 

Interested because I still have a CAS
(albeit for cam signal only)