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The engine is out: what should I do?

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Old Jul 21, 2014 | 09:11 PM
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Default The engine is out: what should I do?

My 1990 is in pieces awaiting the reinstallation of a new bottom end and a refreshed head on top of it.

But while it's out of the car, and knowing that I plan on adding FI later...

...is there anything I should take care of while I've got the chance?

Ideas specific to the fact that it's going to get what will probably be a turbo setup are most welcome, but any thoughts at all on things useful to be doing while the engine (and transmission) aren't in the car would be of help.
Old Jul 21, 2014 | 09:12 PM
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Clean the hell out of all painted surfaces in the bay.
Old Jul 21, 2014 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by rleete
Clean the hell out of all painted surfaces in the bay.
That one is pretty much done!

Multiple sessions with degreaser and a pressure washer.

Just as soon as we get it in the air, we're doing the same to the bottom.

Old Jul 21, 2014 | 11:50 PM
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Reroute. Now!
Old Jul 22, 2014 | 12:35 AM
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spend $10 dollars to replace your oil galley plugs so that you don't spend 3 months tracking an oil leak and spending tens of hundreds of dollars thinking it's the brand new pump or a multitude of seals.
Old Jul 22, 2014 | 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by hornetball
Reroute. Now!
Already have the kit...

Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
spend $10 dollars to replace your oil galley plugs so that you don't spend 3 months tracking an oil leak and spending tens of hundreds of dollars thinking it's the brand new pump or a multitude of seals.
The bottom end was prepared for racing before I got it, so it's probably done, but I'll make sure to check.
Old Jul 22, 2014 | 08:11 AM
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Perhaps now is the time to get into the transmission tunnel around the foot-wells and line it with heat resistant material. If you're worried about heat.

Now is the time to add bungs to the oil pan, if you haven't already. I second the coolant reroute.
Old Jul 22, 2014 | 08:30 AM
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Put forged rods in the engine.
New engine mounts
replace slave cylinder and install 949 clutch line
install the clutch you want for boost
Old Jul 22, 2014 | 11:36 AM
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If you plan to add instruments (i.e., oil temp, water temp, whatever), good time to figure out sender mounting which might involve drilling and tapping.

If you plan to add an oil cooler, good time to get the sandwich plate mounted.

Also, good time to get rid of all the small water lines that run all over the engine and block off unneeded water and/or vacuum outlets with pipe-thread plugs instead of rubber plugs. Plug the water elbow outlet on the front of the head with a freeze plug and retention plate as part of the reroute.
Old Jul 22, 2014 | 12:21 PM
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Tap the oil pan and cap it till your ready for a turbo. Might as well avoid all risk of metal shavings. Also be sure to tap it towards the front drivers side where it wont hit the sub frame
Old Jul 22, 2014 | 01:43 PM
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This thread is getting full of good advice.

Thanks everyone.
Old Jul 22, 2014 | 02:18 PM
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How'd you guys all miss the obvious one? While the engine is out, get a 1.8 to replace it with.
Old Jul 22, 2014 | 02:25 PM
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That might still happen...

Currently the plan is:

1. Get it back together and drive it naturally aspirated. (Doing those things that make sense)
2. Get a Megasquirt and learn to tune it before installing the turbo (probably kit).
3. Have an engine built to take turbo power (doing the engine things mentioned here to THAT one including a stronger clutch)
4. Install that engine.
5. Install turbo.

Given that you can buy a used engine for so little, there's no reason for me to have the car off the road when I want to use it as a daily driver.

Thoughts?
Old Jul 22, 2014 | 02:26 PM
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the 1.6 is still good just need to add vtps
Old Jul 22, 2014 | 02:38 PM
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Originally Posted by alangbaker
That might still happen...

Currently the plan is:

1. Get it back together and drive it naturally aspirated. (Doing those things that make sense)
2. Get a Megasquirt and learn to tune it before installing the turbo (probably kit).
3. Have an engine built to take turbo power (doing the engine things mentioned here to THAT one including a stronger clutch)
4. Install that engine.
5. Install turbo.

Given that you can buy a used engine for so little, there's no reason for me to have the car off the road when I want to use it as a daily driver.

Thoughts?
This place would be a lot more boring if every noob could read and comprehend as well as you! Don't spoil this for me, tell me more about how you think an EBAY kit with an FMU should be fine and we don't know what we're talking about.
Old Jul 22, 2014 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottyP3821
the 1.6 is still good just need to add vtps
OK, that's a new one: what is a "VTPS"?

Originally Posted by thenuge26
This place would be a lot more boring if every noob could read and comprehend as well as you! Don't spoil this for me, tell me more about how you think an EBAY kit with an FMU should be fine and we don't know what we're talking about.
My personal motto is: do it once, so do it right.

If you're going end up buying all this stuff anyhow, then why not accept that, and figure out the best order in which to buy and install it?
Old Jul 22, 2014 | 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by alangbaker
OK, that's a new one: what is a "VTPS

Variable Throttle Position Sensor
Old Jul 22, 2014 | 03:59 PM
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Originally Posted by glade
Variable Throttle Position Sensor
Cool. So the stock TPS is just on/off (presumably closed/not closed)?
Old Jul 22, 2014 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by alangbaker


The bottom end was prepared for racing before I got it, so it's probably done, but I'll make sure to check.

Yea so was mine....
Old Jul 22, 2014 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by alangbaker
Cool. So the stock TPS is just on/off (presumably closed/not closed)?
'90-'93 Manual trans cars came with a three way sensor. Idle, WOT, and everything in between. The automatics had a true VTPS. One sensor reading for for everything between idle and WOT is no good for tuning.



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