Stripped exhaust manifold threads
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,332
Total Cats: 87
From: Columbia, SC
So upon removing my oem manifold for the first time, the majority of the threads in one hole in the head came out with the manifold stud, that came out with the nut. So, I assume helicoil-ing it is the appropriate route? Is this something I should attempt to do on my own having never done this before, or take to a machine shop? Definitely have the appropriate tools to do it, only the guy knowledgeable enough that would typically give me a hand is currently house ridden to do surgery.
Suggestions?
Suggestions?
I recommend either a time-sert or a king sert. A helicoil is kind of a cheapo way to fix this, and much less of a permanent solution. Easy to install without removing the head.depending on which hole you stripped. ..
Agreed on the king-serts. Helicoil is a cheapo way out; may not stay in place. You want the ones with a positive locking mechanism to stay put.
If you're not comfortable to do it yourself, at least pull the head and take it in. Having the car towed in to do it in place is just one more variable to eliminate.
If you're not comfortable to do it yourself, at least pull the head and take it in. Having the car towed in to do it in place is just one more variable to eliminate.
Yeah, I had the name KING in my head. Maybe it was a brand I used. Maybe my memory sucks. Either way, those are what you want. McMaster Carr could have them to you in one day.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,332
Total Cats: 87
From: Columbia, SC
Good deal. Will look into the Keenserts. Thanks! My only concern, and maybe it's just over thinking things, but could this be done with a hand drill (as opposed to a drill press)? Will the bit follow the original hole enough that it remains perpendicular to the flange?
I wouldn't worry about it. Maybe have someone spot you, just to make sure that your not holding the drill at some jacked up angle. It's amazing how you can be certain that you are drilling straight, and a dude walks up and tells you that you are crooked as hell.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,332
Total Cats: 87
From: Columbia, SC
So here's what happened...
I drilled the 12.5mm hole, and tapped it m14x1.5. The problem was, when i threaded the insert in and tightened it down (using a bolt), it didn't go in far enough. And the bolt backed out without the insert. So, it was stuck.
So what we did was used red locktite put a bolt in, and let it sit overnight. Bolt came out perfectly the next day.
Since i didn't really feel like paying $40 for the only bottoming tap I could find locally, we used an angle grinder and rounded just the slightest bit of the insert. Worked great. MUCH better than a helicoil. Highly recommend it.
I paid: $6 for the insert (x2 for the one i broke with locktite), $7 for the tap, and $7 for the drill bit.
Pictures:





I drilled the 12.5mm hole, and tapped it m14x1.5. The problem was, when i threaded the insert in and tightened it down (using a bolt), it didn't go in far enough. And the bolt backed out without the insert. So, it was stuck.
So what we did was used red locktite put a bolt in, and let it sit overnight. Bolt came out perfectly the next day.
Since i didn't really feel like paying $40 for the only bottoming tap I could find locally, we used an angle grinder and rounded just the slightest bit of the insert. Worked great. MUCH better than a helicoil. Highly recommend it.
I paid: $6 for the insert (x2 for the one i broke with locktite), $7 for the tap, and $7 for the drill bit.
Pictures:





Great! Those inserts are awesome aren't they?
On a side note, I have used and burned up every angle grinder on the market, the orange 4-1/2" harbor freight one is the best. The on sale $14.00 price tag is also a plus.
On a side note, I have used and burned up every angle grinder on the market, the orange 4-1/2" harbor freight one is the best. The on sale $14.00 price tag is also a plus.






