What would be symptoms of worn crank keyway?
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Before I tell my symptoms, tell me what would some likely or possible symtoms be if my crank pulley was tight but was walking back and forth within a worn keyway? Assume that timing between cam sensor and crank sensor is locked but crank itself is walking back and forth say, 3-4 degrees.
I KNOW I had a bad keyway and I fixed it with the "loctite fix" several years ago. However, what would I expect if the loctite shattered over time and the timing belt gear drive was not firmly indexed on the crank? Obviously my timing would be suspect. What else?
I KNOW I had a bad keyway and I fixed it with the "loctite fix" several years ago. However, what would I expect if the loctite shattered over time and the timing belt gear drive was not firmly indexed on the crank? Obviously my timing would be suspect. What else?
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Before I tell my symptoms, tell me what would some likely or possible symtoms be if my crank pulley was tight but was walking back and forth within a worn keyway? Assume that timing between cam sensor and crank sensor is locked but crank itself is walking back and forth say, 3-4 degrees.
I KNOW I had a bad keyway and I fixed it with the "loctite fix" several years ago. However, what would I expect if the loctite shattered over time and the timing belt gear drive was not firmly indexed on the crank? Obviously my timing would be suspect. What else?
I KNOW I had a bad keyway and I fixed it with the "loctite fix" several years ago. However, what would I expect if the loctite shattered over time and the timing belt gear drive was not firmly indexed on the crank? Obviously my timing would be suspect. What else?
Pull plug #1, drop a dowel in there, and rotate the crank to find TDC. See if that agrees with the timing mark.
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New motor is going in the car by March. I will do a full check by then. I just answered my own question in my head though... A few degrees of timing won't be enough to make my car do what it's doing. It could explain the random knock on high loads and perhaps make it make less power than it should...
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Basically what was happening was that the car was running perfectly until it gets warm. Then, I do one full power pull and everything is lean until I shut it off. I was thinking that perhaps the swing in timing could create a situation where it was requiring more fuel once the timing is walked back due to a full power pull, but remembering my tuning instruction you do fuel before timing and then verify. Sometimes you make much larger swings in timing than 3-4 degrees and it rarely makes a big difference in fuel.
Consider the thread closed.
Basically what was happening was that the car was running perfectly until it gets warm. Then, I do one full power pull and everything is lean until I shut it off. I was thinking that perhaps the swing in timing could create a situation where it was requiring more fuel once the timing is walked back due to a full power pull, but remembering my tuning instruction you do fuel before timing and then verify. Sometimes you make much larger swings in timing than 3-4 degrees and it rarely makes a big difference in fuel.
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