Notices
Engine Performance This section is for discussion on all engine building related questions.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by: KPower

Glittery Oil

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 6, 2018 | 08:00 AM
  #1  
pmhellings's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 186
Total Cats: 18
From: Green Cove Springs, Florida
Default Glittery Oil

My last two oil changes have shown some "glitter" in the oil. The first time I assumed ( hoped) it was just dirt or something in the catch pan. Last oil change I cleaned the pan out thoroughly before draining the engine. Still had glitter. I checked with a magnet and it seems that the glitter is not magnetic, although it was hard to tell for sure given the oil sort of coated the magnet.

The engine has 110k, oil changed every 5k miles with synthetic. Boosted at 12# and not tracked and not really beaten on much. Uses no oil or coolant, plugs are uniformly clean and tan and engine runs well. Tune is pretty conservative but a few degrees of timing hotter than the FM base tune on the Hydra. Data logs show no knocking, so all should be good. Except there's glitter in the oil.

Any guesses as as to what is going on? Wouldn't any piston damage to detonation go out the tailpipe? Beating down the valves? VVT head is stock, but I ususally shift before 7k rpm. No valve train noise is evident.

Suggestions?

Paul
Old Mar 6, 2018 | 08:18 AM
  #2  
4strings's Avatar
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 78
Total Cats: 12
From: Wisconsin
Default

Send it to Blackstone labs? It's fairly cheap.
Old Mar 6, 2018 | 08:35 AM
  #3  
x_25's Avatar
Elite Member
 
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,822
Total Cats: 144
From: NorthWest NJ
Default

Might be bearings. Send a sample to blackstone.

You can also cut open the oil filter and see just how much is in there.
Old Mar 6, 2018 | 09:11 AM
  #4  
ryansmoneypit's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 3,398
Total Cats: 458
From: A cave in Va
Default

or just kep driving it till something happens. If you send the oil off and it comes back bad, you are possibly looking at a rebuild. If you drive it and it actually begins to knock, then you know it was a problem and needs to be rebuilt. Its not like you can remedy the situation with magic aditives after a Blackstone analysis. if its dying, its dying.
Old Mar 6, 2018 | 09:26 AM
  #5  
pmhellings's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 186
Total Cats: 18
From: Green Cove Springs, Florida
Default

Plan for a while has been to build a new engine to swap in. I probably need to push that forward. A little bit. Maybe turn the boost down a little too.

Paul
Old Mar 6, 2018 | 10:09 AM
  #6  
tyhackman15's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 169
Total Cats: 13
From: ATX
Default

Glitter that isn't magnetic makes me think bearings. Run a little thicker oil and keep your fingers crossed. What oil have you been running previously?
Old Mar 6, 2018 | 10:43 AM
  #7  
pdexta's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (17)
 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 2,954
Total Cats: 184
From: Knoxville, TN
Default

Originally Posted by pmhellings
Maybe turn the boost down a little too.
Oh now don't you even talk like that!

Your bearings don't care how much boost your running (within reason and on a safe tune). If it's going to die, it's going to die, better to send it off in a blaze of glory than to send it to it's deathbed prematurely.
Old Mar 6, 2018 | 12:10 PM
  #8  
pmhellings's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 186
Total Cats: 18
From: Green Cove Springs, Florida
Default

Originally Posted by tyhackman15
Glitter that isn't magnetic makes me think bearings. Run a little thicker oil and keep your fingers crossed. What oil have you been running previously?
I've been running Mobil 1 10w-30. Change every 5k. In Florida so could go a little thicker. So, I'm at least 12k miles into this issue. I was going to next, forged motor myself, even bought a block that had been "rebuilt" with forged rods and pistons and I was going to go thru itand verify/ upgrade. Turns out it had forged rods but everything else stock and the engine was filthy inside with gunk and the cylinder walls had never even been honed. Sold the engine for what I paid ( and told the buyer what I found).

A little gun shy on the build now after reading that you have to calculate bolt stretch, not torque stuff. My last engine build was a small block Chevy about 45 years ago. Maybe a new turbo engine needs a finer touch than I've got. Anyone have a recommendation for a good builder in Northeast or Central Florida?

Paul
Old Mar 6, 2018 | 12:52 PM
  #9  
SpartanSV's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 1,232
Total Cats: 169
From: Greeley, CO
Default

What fasteners require measuring bolt stretch? I assembled a bp this winter and didn't see anything that didn't list an actual torque number.

These are simple engines. If you have any prior engine assembly experience then you're more than qualified to do it yourself IMO.
Old Mar 6, 2018 | 12:58 PM
  #10  
hi_im_sean's Avatar
SadFab CEO
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,560
Total Cats: 1,143
From: your mom's house phoenix, AZ
Default

Originally Posted by SpartanSV
What fasteners require measuring bolt stretch? I assembled a bp this winter and didn't see anything that didn't list an actual torque number.

These are simple engines. If you have any prior engine assembly experience then you're more than qualified to do it yourself IMO.
The rod bolts. Not that they require it, but its the best way to do it. Some might even say its the only proper way to do it. And I agree with them.
Old Mar 6, 2018 | 01:25 PM
  #11  
SpartanSV's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 1,232
Total Cats: 169
From: Greeley, CO
Default

Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
The rod bolts. Not that they require it, but its the best way to do it. Some might even say its the only proper way to do it. And I agree with them.
I used ebay rods with ARP bolts. They list a stretch method and give a torque spec for those without a stretch gauge.

You're right, measuring stretch would be best, but If that is what is keeping OP from assembling himself then I feel he should be aware that isn't the only option.
Old Mar 6, 2018 | 02:18 PM
  #12  
sixshooter's Avatar
Moderator
iTrader: (12)
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 22,155
Total Cats: 3,536
From: Tampa, Florida
Default

Mazworx in Orlando is highly competent as an engine builder. The owner is a friend. He also CNC machines SR20 and 2JZ engine blocks out of billet aluminum, lol. He built my engine and Tony Montana's engine.

He built an SR20 motor that makes over 1400whp for a customer, FWIW.

http://www.mazworx.com/
Old Mar 6, 2018 | 02:38 PM
  #13  
pmhellings's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 186
Total Cats: 18
From: Green Cove Springs, Florida
Default

Originally Posted by sixshooter
Mazworx in Orlando is highly competent as an engine builder. The owner is a friend. He also CNC machines SR20 and 2JZ engine blocks out of billet aluminum, lol. He built my engine and Tony Montana's engine.

He built an SR20 motor that makes over 1400whp for a customer, FWIW.

Mazworx
Thanks, I'll check it out.

Paul
Old Mar 6, 2018 | 02:54 PM
  #14  
Savington's Avatar
Former Vendor
iTrader: (31)
 
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 15,442
Total Cats: 2,106
From: Sunnyvale, CA
Default

Originally Posted by SpartanSV
I used ebay rods with ARP bolts. They list a stretch method and give a torque spec for those without a stretch gauge.
The deviation from the published spec required to achieve the listed stretch on ARP rod bolts would surprise you.
Old Mar 6, 2018 | 03:03 PM
  #15  
Neilv's Avatar
Junior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 163
Total Cats: 8
From: Niagara Falls NY/ Ontario, CA
Default

Originally Posted by pmhellings


I've been running Mobil 1 10w-30. Change every 5k.
Has no one seen this? Every time I hear a bad engine story from not pushing it its 75% Mobil 1 and 25% royal purple.
Old Mar 6, 2018 | 03:11 PM
  #16  
hi_im_sean's Avatar
SadFab CEO
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 4,560
Total Cats: 1,143
From: your mom's house phoenix, AZ
Default

Geez, can we please not go there?
Old Mar 6, 2018 | 03:31 PM
  #17  
sixshooter's Avatar
Moderator
iTrader: (12)
 
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 22,155
Total Cats: 3,536
From: Tampa, Florida
Default

Originally Posted by Neilv
Has no one seen this? Every time I hear a bad engine story from not pushing it its 75% Mobil 1 and 25% royal purple.
I thought it but I didn't say it.
Old Mar 6, 2018 | 03:55 PM
  #18  
Blkbrd69's Avatar
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 431
Total Cats: 76
From: Orlando, FL
Default

Blackstone
Old Mar 6, 2018 | 04:09 PM
  #19  
ryansmoneypit's Avatar
Elite Member
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 3,398
Total Cats: 458
From: A cave in Va
Default

waste of time^^^
Reply
Leave a poscat -1 Leave a negcat
Old Mar 6, 2018 | 06:53 PM
  #20  
pmhellings's Avatar
Thread Starter
Junior Member
 
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 186
Total Cats: 18
From: Green Cove Springs, Florida
Default So what's the problem with that?

Originally Posted by Neilv
Has no one seen this? Every time I hear a bad engine story from not pushing it its 75% Mobil 1 and 25% royal purple.
Please let me in on the joke....what's wrong with Mobile 1 Synthetic? Or what was it that I wrote that is amusing? As far as "not pushing it" I'm talking about RPM. I find the car is quicker shifting at about 6800 and since I'm on a stock damper and stock head revving over 7k is not only not productive but inviting oil pump failure.

So....what???

Paul


Last edited by pmhellings; Mar 6, 2018 at 09:38 PM. Reason: misspelling



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:59 AM.