Cant get my car running right. Decided to take the turbo off and just go back to naturally aspirated until i can save up a little more money. Everything went smoothly and was even able to drive the car around the town and rip it and it felt nice. But now i cant even drive it. The car is struggling like hell. I step on the gas and nothing happens. It idles really low and the car is shaking like crazy. I keep checking my timing and i dont think im getting that right. Im about tired and heart broken for the night but i datalogged it idling and gave it some revs. I dont know if that will help any. Ill load my tune up too. I might've not done the timing right because i didnt do the whole enable/lock timing. I just turned the crank angle and matched it up to 10. But i swear everytime i go and check it again its moved. Is that what the enable/lock timing prevents? i sound so dumb right now. But please help me out folks im a very sad guy rn.

 

Your pulley has possibly slipped. Use a bright marker or scribe to mark across both inner and outer parts of the pulley. When mine was slipping, every time I’d shut the engine down, the forward momentum of the pulley would slip it some.

you do need to lock timing at 10 in tunerstudios to set it to 10 degrees though.

 

i put the engine to top dead center (i put the dipstick into the spark plug hole and turned the crank until the dipstick started to go up and once it was at its highest point and right before it started going down is the right way correct?) and the mark on the pulley was inline with the T. I then did the proper way of setting it via tuner studio and really nothing changed. It maybe revs a little bit nicer in the late rpms but from 1-3k i need to be full throttle to get the car reved up. The rpms are also bouncing a lot. Theres a lot wrong with this car. I dont know what else to fixed to get it running like it used to.

 

go step by step

check sensor calibration, before you start engine. IAT ECT TPS

checked for vacuum leak? vacuum line to MAP sensor not squeezed or pinched?

I dont have good experience with PID o2 correction, I would try switching it temporarily to off or simple. Also I dont use o2 correction on cold engine.

If idle is too low raise IAC PWM value, With low ECT should be rather higher than 0 you currently have.

sync loss greater than zero is also not perfect

all 4 cyllinders working? try unplugging injectors on running engine.