If you don't have the money to do it yourself, you don't have the money to deal with someone else's project, either.

This. x1000. You're best off just buying a well kept stock car and learning as you go with modifying.

I'd also like to add... if you don't have the knowledge or mechanical aptitude to "build" the systems that are on the project car (read: 9/10 times, some one elses nightmare) then you shouldn't be buying a car with those systems. While the miata is generally simple and is essentially built on late 90's technology... they become less simple when going off the normally aspirated path. You really need to get a non-boosted car, and learn the chassis, motor and electronics and then add power later. If you don't do this, you stand a chance of A) buying a headache B) replacing a motor in the first 12 months of ownership or C) ending up with a car on jackstands you don't drive.

Regarding buying a car and shipping it... you're essentially doing that right now. You sight wanting to see the car yourself, but it doesn't seem like you know the chassis enough to know what you're looking at (experience in general). You're taking photos from the buyer, posting them here asking questions and then making a decision. The only difference between doing that 2000 miles away from you instead of 20 or 200... is the one way plane ticket and the great stories that driving a car back across the country create. There is nothing wrong with what you're doing, honestly as long as you have thick skin, you're doing it on the right website. However, don't be confused that there is no difference in buying across the country then what you're doing now.

Do 6 more months of research on the car (NOT 6 MONTHS OF RESEARCH LOOKING FOR THE RIGHT CAR!!!) and do this once, do it right. You have the right budget to get either a decent stock car and a whole heap load of parts, or a really well sorted already built car. DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON SOME ONE ELSE'S DISASTER!!!

They actual kit doesnt really matter. They upgraded the tensioner to a manual one The tuning is done via power card which to my knowledge was not part of the BRP kits. Basically a simple bolt on (hotside) MP62 supercharger from any kit seller is the same other than tune and maybe tensioner. When you start adding intercoolers, and dual throttle bodies, and IAC controll valves and intakes the differences start to show, but even then tweaks will be made. I ditched the tuning, and pulleys that came with my BRP kit before even trying them out. (Unreasonable - maybe but if i left things alone i wouldnt have supercharged it either.) Just saying what kit it was doesnt matter as much as what remains.

I would value the car as the sum of the parts plus what's needed to make it right. At first glance it needs IC, dual throttle bodies (option?), injectors and ECU.Then there is tuning. All this assumes the shell is good and rust free. Those rockers and front frame rails will tell you what you need to know. Pay $100-$200 to have a competent mechanic look at it on a life and probe with screwdriver.

I would not not worry too much about the motor. Quick compression/leakdown will tell you all you need to know.

Look in the classifieds for deals on injectors and ECU's. I would try and stay new on both. Most prefer MS3 and Injector Dynamics injectors.

Great info, thanks for all of that. I am most certainly going to continue to learn and hope to buy the right car the first time around.

Hypothetically speaking, if I were to buy this car (after compression test & rust check of course), would I be able to get by with just adding an intercooler and adding the Jackson Racing Supercard that handles timing and have it be a safe and reliable daily driver? Where might I find some good info on how to properly do a compression/leakdown test?

I understand that the Supercards are not the ideal tuning solution and that I can do better, but I would likely be more than happy sacrificing a bit of power for the ease of use. I would likely prefer not to get in too deep with all the tuning and adjusting required with a more "advanced" setup. With that in mind, could I get by with such a setup and have it be reliable? How hard is it to locate one of those JR Timing Supercards these days?

Google or the instructions that come with the kit.

Just buy the car. You are obviously irrational in your infatuation for the particular unit. There's no point in bothering us with questions when you've already decided.

There's a couple of different ways to retard the timing using aftermarket interfaces that offer very coarse adjustments. None will be the proper way but none of this is the proper way.

What? OP is still looking at the same car? With so many good one from which to choose, if you just go south of the snow-belt?

OP, don't be so dumb.

If you *really* must buy a pre-modified miata, please just buy this one: https://baltimore.craigslist.org/cto...323321363.html

Its got a decent setup, it at least comes already megasquirted and has a true wide-band sensor, and will give a solid foundation moving forward. And its local to you. Most importantly, its not the total POS you came here wanting affirmation on.

Oh, wow! That's a nice looking car with good hardware at a good price. OP should definitely get that guy to take you around the block and see what is possible.

^^^This X10. Making major modifications to a car like adding forced induction serves only to decrease its resale value, not increase it. Except in very specific circumstances in which you can verify that the work has been done correctly by a competent person, either by knowing and trusting whoever is selling the car, or by being able to look closely at the work done and confirm yourself, the presence of an aftermarket FI setup makes the car worth less. Just read through the build threads on here and see all the shortcuts that can be taken, even when building with a well known/respected kit. I met a guy not too long ago with a Flyin Miata + megasquirt upgrade to his MSM...it had good hardware, and looked like the setup was legit...and then he mentioned he hadn't bothered to change the "stock tune" on the MS. So he's been auto-crossing a boosted car with an un-tuned base map. The car was super sharp, no obvious rust, looked slick as hell, but in my opinion it's worth significantly LESS than the same car stock.

Point is, buying a pre-modified vehicle is not usually a good idea in general, and even when it is a reasonable idea, the presence of aftermarket FI parts just makes it a more risky investment, which decreases the overall value.

This is a GREAT car! Ideal ECU and good turbo setup. Says motor refreshed too!

I most definitely haven't decided anything yet... am still weighing my options.

N dang... couldn't see the car in the link cus the listing has expired... dunno if it was sold or if the listing did expire.