Thanks Vitamin J, I sent you a PM.
So, now that I DON'T have injectors yet. Anyone got any suggestions? I only have 125 right now, so if there isn't a decent set for that price for sale anywhere, I'll have to wait until I can save up more. |
God help you if you don't buy Flow Force Injectors.
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Save up the $300 and get the flow force. You don't do better for cheaper (unless you do a bring your own injector kit, but take it from someone with a lumpy idle, get the matched ones...).
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Looks like force flow is who I'll go with. I won't die waiting another 2 weeks. Working a lot of overtime so I don't gotta worry about the extra cash. What size should I get? I plan on 250hp eventually (probably middle of next year). Are these ok? Should be plenty of headroom.
http://www.flowforceinjectors.com/products/ff610-pnp-flow-matched-injector-kit-miata So, I haven't heard any more comments on the clutch. Flyin Miata stage 1 is ok right? |
Originally Posted by Balto
(Post 1428684)
Thanks for all the... Advice guys. Well, I already bought the injectors, so that's what I'm using for now.
The link is a FM 94/95 Link so yes its for my year. The kit is a hotside kit, so no I won't have any issues mating it to a 95. I don't regret any of my choices on stuff right now. I understand this is a 'turbo' Miata forum, but all these comments about 'too late' and shit really isn't any help. Keep em to yourself. |
Originally Posted by Balto
(Post 1428762)
Looks like force flow is who I'll go with. I won't die waiting another 2 weeks. Working a lot of overtime so I don't gotta worry about the extra cash. What size should I get? I plan on 250hp eventually (probably middle of next year). Are these ok? Should be plenty of headroom.
Flow Force NA/NB Miata 640cc Injectors with PNP Kit ? Flow Force Injectors So, I haven't heard any more comments on the clutch. Flyin Miata stage 1 is ok right? For the shit power and torque you are going to make the FM1 is perfect. I really like my FM1. |
Originally Posted by Balto
(Post 1428585)
Question section.
My clutch of choice is going to be a Flyin Miata stage 1. Any criticism on this? The stock internals can handle (from my research) 230. Is the 230 wtq or WHP? I'm assuming it's torque, but I want to know 100%. Would a exhaust blanket be a good idea to keep the exhaust heat away from the supercharger? I can't imagine the charger stays cool on long trips, and where I live the outside temperature gets to 115+. 1. FM S1 Clutch is great. Very stock like. I don't think I've ever read a negative review on it. 2. It's the torque. At 10psi on the MP62, you have nothing to worry about. 3. Highly recommended. the TrackDogRacing heat shield is fine. I took a tool rotary tool or sawzall and cut off the top of the OEM header shield and stuck the TDR one on top. There is very little space between the SC and the runners on the header, like a 1/2" at most, so anything will help. I read the FS ad, don't let the comment about it throwing a belt get you down. That usually means they didn't have the SC pulley perfectly aligned with the OEM pulleys. Once the SC is hanging on the bracket, it has some slack to slide it back and forth for adjustment. The only problem with the 4-rib kits is that it's hard to attenuate boost, since you're on the stock crank pulley. Going to a smaller SC pulley will often contribute to belt slip. You may consider getting an overlay to increase the size of the crank pulley, then buy a slightly larger SC pulley - more boost, and more surface contact. Give Gary at TDR a call, he's awesome and has a lot of SC-specific parts and get you the right pulley combo. If your kit didn't come with an IC, you absolutely must find a way to cool the intake charge if you want the 10psi/200rwhp goal. If you need it, the install files: https://sites.google.com/site/redcapsmiata/home/files |
Originally Posted by RunninOnEmpty
(Post 1428768)
Congrats on the purchase, if you got it for $1250, that's a steal.
1. FM S1 Clutch is great. Very stock like. I don't think I've ever read a negative review on it. 2. It's the torque. At 10psi on the MP62, you have nothing to worry about. 3. Highly recommended. the TrackDogRacing heat shield is fine. I took a tool rotary tool or sawzall and cut off the top of the OEM header shield and stuck the TDR one on top. There is very little space between the SC and the runners on the header, like a 1/2" at most, so anything will help. I read the FS ad, don't let the comment about it throwing a belt get you down. That usually means they didn't have the SC pulley perfectly aligned with the OEM pulleys. Once the SC is hanging on the bracket, it has some slack to slide it back and forth for adjustment. The only problem with the 4-rib kits is that it's hard to attenuate boost, since you're on the stock crank pulley. Going to a smaller SC pulley will often contribute to belt slip. You may consider getting an overlay to increase the size of the crank pulley, then buy a slightly larger SC pulley - more boost, and more surface contact. Give Gary at TDR a call, he's awesome and has a lot of SC-specific parts and get you the right pulley combo. If your kit didn't come with an IC, you absolutely must find a way to cool the intake charge if you want the 10psi/200rwhp goal. If you need it, the install files: https://sites.google.com/site/redcapsmiata/home/files Yes the clutch will probably be a first check purchase next month. I'm excited. My goal right now is to get the bigger injectors, ECU, clutch and supercharger installed and tuned, I think it will be about 7psi, which should be OK without a IC for now. In the coming months, I'll put a IC in and get different pulleys to up the boost. At that time, I may just go for 250whp instead of 200 since I'll have all the nice stuff to get there. I'll be running an external temp probe I have to watch intake temps at the DTB. Thanks for those wonderful words farpole, I'll be sure to send you my dyno sheets when I get it on the dyno! |
lol 250whp. optimistic, but sorely mistaken
but seriously: I'm not just trying to keep peeing in your cheerios. I had a MP62 setup. it was even better cause it was a cold side and on e85. And I was falling asleep at the wheel. But if you must absolutely go sc, then yeah with a ic and good injectors you'll probably have a healthy 200whp if done correctly The low-end thrust is delightful when you just want to low rpm chug along in the city |
Originally Posted by Balto
(Post 1428769)
Thanks for those wonderful words farpole, I'll be sure to send you my dyno sheets when I get it on the dyno! |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1428771)
lol 250whp. optimistic, but sorely mistaken
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Because unless you're ok seeing 250F charge temps and still throwing a ton of timing at the engine on pump gas, ignoring the knock, it's just not gonna happen. safely
on e85, and with a real good intercooler and all the other supporting mods like a ton of ductin/shrouding, possibly You ever wonder why gary and tom like band-AIDZ so much? it's because you can just ignore what's happening and keep throwing more fuel at the car. ignorance is bliss I've re-built those engines. it wasn't pretty |
many of us have done this before. it's nothing new.
go look up patsmx5 thread when he was wasting time/money on superchargers. he went all out with it, and it still didn't make anywhere near the power he was expecting. it's all documented here, throughout many years and many builds. even I was silly enough to try it :) |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1428775)
many of us have done this before. it's nothing new.
go look up patsmx5 thread when he was wasting time/money on superchargers. he went all out with it, and it still didn't make anywhere near the power he was expecting. it's all documented here, throughout many years and many builds. even I was silly enough to try it :) |
There is "the gleas" username or something that went allofit on his hotside. Search around. He was making 235 whp with a nice flat torque curve. Mind you you will need 6-rib, bigger crank pulley and a quality intercooler to hope to get near that. And then prey your engine won't blow up because 235 on a supercharger is like 260 with a turbo because of power train loss.
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Most of these make about 200whp on the bandaids. A probably really unsafe and terrible 200whp, but 200whp.
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Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1428775)
many of us have done this before. it's nothing new.
go look up patsmx5 thread when he was wasting time/money on superchargers. he went all out with it, and it still didn't make anywhere near the power he was expecting. it's all documented here, throughout many years and many builds. even I was silly enough to try it :) |
Originally Posted by Balto
(Post 1428777)
This is my daily driver so going all out would be kinda silly anyway.
What are you trying to say |
As a data point. I am spinning my M45 out to 18000rpm (150mm crank pulley, 62.5mm nose pulley) on a 4 rib setup. Making 9-9.5psi, post intercooler from 4k, tapering up to 11psi at redline. With my ebay intercooler (the good ebay one) I have never seen intake temps more than 25f over ambient driving on the road. There just isn't anywhere to stay in boost long enough to have a problem. I have had zero issues with throwing the belt or belt slip. But I took my time to align the pullies.
My reccomendation is to build the rest of the car exaxtly like a turbo setup. It seems to be working great for mine, and when I get tired of the super, I can just slap a turbo on and go. That said, I still get whumped by turbo miatas making a max of 8psi (at least up to, I toast them off the line). |
Originally Posted by Balto
(Post 1428736)
So, now that I DON'T have injectors yet. Anyone got any suggestions? I only have 125 right now
:inout: |
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