Just finished a month-long install. TDR kit with Rotrex 30-94 unit and TDR PnP Fuel/Timing cards. RoadsterSport header and muffler. Flyin Miata stage 2 suspension with Koni shocks. Flyin Miata bronze Kogeki wheels, Toyo Proxes.

 

In for dyno results...

Everytime I think I've absolutely, definitely decided against a Rotrex someone posts a Rotrex thread...

 

I’m loving my 240whp nb1 rotrex, 6 months in after 10 years as it nat asp. Didn’t change the feel of the car,(cos no big surge of power a turbo can give) it just has more power everywhere, and the pull to redline is very addictive!!!

 

Which kit did you go with or did you piece it together?

 

I really wanted to go with TrackDog kit, but customs, freight and exchange rates meant it was $2000 dearer than sourcing from local Rotrex dealer here in Australia ..

So I went with Bullet Cars DIY Rotrex kit. Essentially the rotrex C30-84 unit, mounting brackets, pulleys, belt, and oiling kit.
Just had to provide my own Intercooler and piping.
.

 

It took about six weeks, 300 miles, and 3 trashed belts to discover there was an alignment issue. About a mm, but man did that mm cause trouble. Loosened and re-tightened the bracket and then checked measurements and it all looked good. Put a belt on it and finally... It drives like it was supposed to. Sorting it out has been a somewhat arduous process, but I’m cautiously optimistic its about there.

 

That's good to hear! I've been enjoying my recently installed TDR kit on my 1.6 car. We decided on MS3Pro and a full flex fuel set up and that resulted in 262whp and 225wtq (full E85) on Trackstar's dyno in the DFW area. It completely transformed the car. Hopefully you get all the little bugs worked out. 3 trashed belts in 300 miles terrifies me but so far I've driven almost 1,000 miles with only minor "belt dusting."

Good luck!

 

So far, no more belts thrown. I have some belt squeak on start up, if its been sitting a few days, but it goes away after a few seconds.

The car runs fine but throws a CEL for rich running, detected at the upstream O2 sensor, if you’ve been putting around in traffic with stop and go. I’m on the third O2 sensor, this time an NGK unit.

Im getting to the point of just ignoring the light. The car seems to run just fine. Im a perfectionist, so “looking the other way” is difficult, but deleting the code and then holding my breath waiting for the light to come back is its own unique kind of hell.

 

So alignment of the belts was out, just by having the brackets not tightened correctly?
Was there any spacers reqd to fix or loosening/tightening alone sorted the issue?.

 

Correct. And no spacers were necessary in my case. The instructions had to be followed very carefully and weren’t the greatest from a composition standpoint, but re-doing that part of the assembly process sorted the belt-throwing issue.

 

Care to elaborate what you did that got it to work? The instructions were a bit lack luster in that regard.

 

I had to loosen all the bracket bolts, including the three main bolts that attached at or near the P/S pump. The key, for me, was to retighten everything in the exact order the instructions stated. If it isnt quite right, the triangle-shaped top piece will seem to be in a bind and the holes will be tricky to line up. If its right, everything lines right up with no binding, if that makes sense.

 

I plan to move to E85 with my 1.6. Did you have to change anything in the fuel system? I was worried the old lines might not handle the E85

 

I didn't other than the pump and injectors obviously. Time will tell how everything holds up I suppose.

 

How's this car running?

 

Runs fine, though now that we are in Winter weather here, it mostly stays in the garage.
Because of the larger injectors and fuel pump, coupled with the fuel/timing cards, a check engine light for upstream O2 sensor was omnipresent. Its been handled. Ill be replacing the belt in the Spring as this one is squeaky on startup.

 

You have got to get this thing on a standalone. Fuel/timing cards are letting down the rest of your kit. I made 230WHP on a 1.6 with a c30-74 on pump gas and a street tune. I now have a 1.8 and I'm drooling over the prospect of a c30-94

 

I take your point, but switching to the MS3Pro is another $1200, and there is no one in this area who tunes MegaSquirt. That would leave it to me to figure it out in my negligible spare time.

 

fair. You should be able to find one for 700-800 but the tune is another story

 

Yeah, I agree 100% that the fuel/timing cards are the weak link in the whole setup. There’s no doubt about it. Under WOT, you’re fine, but the rest of the time, putt putting around town, you’re on the stock ECU, and it isnt pleased with the arrangement. I think a MS fixes all the problems. But sadly, I dont have Patty Boi’s older brother to help tune the thing.