On a stock vvt head, forged 9.5/1 pistons, 2.5” exhaust, smallest pulley for 120000rpm @ 7200rpm, we are seeing 270hp (crank, because that’s how we measure it in Europe) power delivery is so smooth, I would say. 74 is a waste of time. Looking for options to hybrid it to a 94.
BTW, from the original Kraftwerks kit, nothing is left from the kit, at this power level. |
Originally Posted by bschonman
(Post 1454847)
I'm personally trying to keep the car streetable and therefore have as much low end torque as a rotrex car can have. Any recommendations for pump gas? No e85 around here. And my want for low end torque rules out cams, right?
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>wants low end torque
>considering hands down least low end torque providing f/I application lol |
Originally Posted by 18psi
(Post 1454976)
>wants low end torque
>considering hands down least low end torque providing f/I application lol |
Originally Posted by Goingnowherefast
(Post 1454940)
Personally I'm going with Rotrex for the ironic lack of torque, in hopes of keeping a motor alive for more than two seasons per rebuild.
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Guys are keeping this entertaining
OP, what about your son’s set-up that you don’t like? Exactly what problem are you trying to solve? |
I enjoy rotrex for it's lack of torque as well. Notice how I said "as much torque as a rotrex can have". I'm not looking for the 300wtq a efr would easily give me. I find my rotrex infinitely easier to drive on track than my FM2 car making a similar amount of power. Every time I push the pedal, I immediately get the same response. Maybe it's because I'm a novice driver, but I just prefer that. 250whp is 250whp however you get there.
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Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1455006)
you know you can do this crazy thing called: tuning.
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This may be a silly question but why don't people ever run the C38 size units on Miatas?
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Heads don't flow, so no need. Plus weak transmissions are always an issue.
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Back to the injector question. I have the options of 750cc or 1000cc at the same price. Does it make sense to just run the 1000's and not look back? I'm not sure, but I've been told that idle can sometimes be a problem with the bigger injectors. Seems to me that with the ms2 less on time should be fine.
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Originally Posted by bschonman
(Post 1455315)
A motor making 220wtq will always have a longer lifespan than the same motor making 300wtq. Tuning fuckups can melt a rotrex car the same way they would a turbo car.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e4d807c855.jpg |
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If they are ev14 injectors the 1000cc will idle fine
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https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...461bce5f8f.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c11fc00946.jpg Never followed though with a build thread, in fact I think this is my first post :party: essentially I have a nice churbo build. Lots of influence from previous builds i.e. 18psi style intercooler routing.
Originally Posted by DNMakinson
(Post 1451321)
Does your son have a build thread here on MT.net?
I suppose the thought is that the Rotrex will have low enough torque at low RPM that it can boost up to 300 whp at high RPM without bending stock rods? |
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1455669)
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I'm just saying, if youre worried about tq, you can tune torque.
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Brain,
Your plots show that the tune increased boost on a turbo'd car, which increased hp and torque. On a Rotrex equipped car, would a superior tune increase BOOST over an average tune? Thanks, |
a turbo doesnt have to run full boost at all times. If you have an EBC, you can tune the boost output. If you're worried about too much tq, dont let the turbo produce too much torque.
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Originally Posted by poormxdad
(Post 1456056)
Brain,
Your plots show that the tune increased boost on a turbo'd car, which increased hp and torque. On a Rotrex equipped car, would a superior tune increase BOOST over an average tune? Thanks,
Originally Posted by Braineack
(Post 1455006)
you know you can do this crazy thing called: tuning.
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:jerkit:
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