My daily is a 104k mile 2000 california spec base model miata with a hard dog ace and a torsen swapped in.I have all the federal parts (live in north carolina) of the exhaust/cats/ecu if neededearlier today, I bought a m45 jackson racing supercharger kit. Should be home before I get back from vacation. It was last installed on a 99 by the original owner. I bought it from a friend of his who never did anything with it.So, ive never looked at the supercharger kits before, have never owned anything boosted, and havent ever seen a supercharged car in person. Just pictures on the internet.Which means I have a bunch of questions, most of which are searchable.The ones that aren't, though, are listed below. Right before the pictures.

1. which version of the kit did I buy?
2. Will this work with AC?
   
3. What supporting mods are required? Fuel pump/radiator?
4. Whats missing from the kit other than the air filter? (have a few K&N laying around, one should fit)
5. is the power card tuneable, or does it need to be?
6. Should I swap to the federal parts?
7. Any maintenance that should be done prior to install? Supercharger oil, bearings, etc? Car has new timing belt, hoses, water pump, radiator, belts, etc.
8. any concerns with running one of these on a daily in north carolina summer heat?
9. Should I do a intercooler? Have a spare from an aborted turbo project, along with a full piping kit)
10. where can I find install instructions?
11. what am I not thinking of?
    

Pictured is what is coming in the box.
image1 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
image1(1) by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
image2 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
image3 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
image5 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
image4 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
image6 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
image8 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
image9 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
image7 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

 

The only thing I can offer about the kit, is it looks like it will work with AC.

However I got some other advice.

Ditch the power card and all the bandaid ****.
Do intercooler, trust me. I ran without one for a week and it ran like ****.
Get 640cc Forceflow injectors
Get a MS3 or MS2 to replace the bandaidz
Pull the charger apart and lube the rotor bearings with high temp grease, replace the nose bushing and fill it with fresh oil.
Did I mention to GET RID OF THE BANDAIDZ?
If you are going to install a intercooler then make sure you have the underbelly panel installed, and seal all the gaps from the radiator opening that supply air to the intercooler/ac/radiator or you will overheat. I'm having this problem right now.
Get a remote mount kit for the idle air control valve from Tom a Fast forward superchargers. Otherwise you will always have an incurable stall issue when returning to idle from boost.

This isn't something you should think that you are going to be able to slap on in a weekend. However I do thing it's a good idea. My Miata is my daily and I don't regret installing the supercharger for even a second.
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That kit looks compleete and it does actually have the air filter.

The pully on the supercharger is the 62.5mm one and will make more boost than the stock setup. It will likely over power your clutch.

I am going to echo doing the stand alone ECU. I don't know if this kit set up that way is compliant with it's EO number. With an intercooler it certainly won't be.

If you do not want to run an intercooler, see if you can pick up the stock 67.5 mm pulley for that kit.

The above post has what you should do to the supercharger itself. Oil, rear bearings, coupler, you may need to replace the snout seal as well.

As far as daily driving, it will be fine if tuned well. I have been running a JRSC intercooled dual throttle body mutt of a setup on my 1.6 for a year and a half now and it has been fine. Makes wonderful noises.

 

As i need to remain obd2 compliant, the bandaids are what i have to work with. I do NOT need to remain carb or eo compliant as i live in north Carolina. Just plug in obd2. Ive also not had a good experience with megasquirt

if needed, i have an older apexi s-afc (**** style) that we can use. Dont have a wiring diagram for it for an nb1 miata though.

what all will be needed to intercool other than piping and the intercooler which i already have?

any links to a thorough walk through on the rebuild of an m45? Rather do it now, and since i have never played with forced induction anything, i need some spoon feeding.
the kit was delivered today. Since im out of town, i have to wait until i get home to see what i actually bought.

 

If you do get an intercooler I would snag that crossover pipe off you if you don't want/need it...

 

Can you run a parallel setup to control fuel and spark and then unhook the pulley and reconnect the stock ecu and injectors for smog inspection (remember to clear the codes)? I'm not even sure that much effort would be necessary if you just have to return codes. In any case, doing this without a proper ECU is going to suck.

I went with a plug and play standalone for my turbo setup, but I'll probably wish I had done a parallel setup if I ever move out of Florida.

Avoid stuff like the apexi box. It's garbage and the effort that it would take to make it behave right would be better invested in getting a real computer running along side the stock ECU. The fundamental problem with signal modifiers is that the apexi box doesn't actually know how air you are flowing, it is just guessing based on rpm and throttle position.

And yeah, run an intercooler. Those blowers put out a lot of heat.

 

I could be wrong, but I believe MS3 allows you to keep the obd2 stuff.

Also, bandaidz really do destroy the engine. I remember another member posting on a different thread that he has pulled apart multiple engines that had been running 'properly' tuned bandaidz engine and the internals were trashed. The engines never lasted more than 125-150k when properly tuned, aftermarket ecu engines still looked good at the same mileage.

 

I strongly doubt an MS3 will pass an OBD scan. Nothing but OEM ECUs are legally allowed to return codes. Parallel ECUs are probably good enough to pass inspection center testing (although not technically legal) as long as the tunes good and sensor readings stay within reasonable ranges.

 

At the very least you will want new tensioner bearings and a new belt.
Good ideas are things like headers and heat blanket and spare bypass valve actuator.
Overall the kit looks pretty beat up, so rebuilding the charger itself seems like a good idea at this point as well. Case bearings and snout rebuild, the parts are on Ebay.

Detonation can occur on hot days so it's better not to push it too hard on hot days, or you could learn to tune and have peace of mind.

 

Here's the install manual

 

For rebuilding the supercharger, you will need a press. Therr are videos onnyoutube for rebuilding the snout on an M90 I beleive. Same process.

For the rear needle bearings, you need to see if you have the earlier closed back bearings. They will be visible from the outside of the housing behind the throttle body adapter.