Angle knuckles
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 238
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From: Wahiawa, HI
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 238
Total Cats: 0
From: Wahiawa, HI
^^^wow ghey. (@ direct link needing login)
Ok guys here is the deal. I have had a bunch of emails asking my angle secret. Knuckles were one of the biggest angle secrets. Now I will hook you guys up with them.
We also make kits for S13, S14, S15, FC, E36, and 05+ Mustang. PM for info
NOW HAVE 99-06 CORES!
Here is a miata with only knuckles, coilovers, and 16x7 +40 wheels and a 1 inch spacer. Roughly +15 offset. There are no tie rod spacers or other steering mods. Pretty rad angle!
<span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'>
fast facts</span>
They are tigged using a liquid cooled Miller, top of the line.
You will need low offset wheels for them to work.
You will need to include your wheel size, diameter, offset, and width.
To get this started I will need you to send me your knuckles and I will have a 1 day turn around after I get them. Then they will be shipped back to you via usps.
Other shipping methods will be more. If we next day'd each way it could be a 3 day total.
<span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'>Price - $225. </span>This includes USPS shipping back to you. You will pay shipping to me.
For an additional $85 I can put arp extended wheel studs on both sides for you. This is perfect if you are wanting to run a slip on spacer up to 1.5 inches. Goodwin sells the arp kits for $50 a side, so this is cheaper and you dont have to do them.
Once I get this started I can start buying them and charging a core.
I believe ma motorsports charges 400 or so for them...
<span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'>SEND THEM TO:
Level7TUNE
9634 S Kensington dr
Houston, TX 77031
with a $225.00 Money order made out to Chelsea DeNofa</span>
We also make kits for S13, S14, S15, FC, E36, and 05+ Mustang. PM for info
NOW HAVE 99-06 CORES!
Here is a miata with only knuckles, coilovers, and 16x7 +40 wheels and a 1 inch spacer. Roughly +15 offset. There are no tie rod spacers or other steering mods. Pretty rad angle!
<span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'>
fast facts</span>
They are tigged using a liquid cooled Miller, top of the line.
You will need low offset wheels for them to work.
You will need to include your wheel size, diameter, offset, and width.
To get this started I will need you to send me your knuckles and I will have a 1 day turn around after I get them. Then they will be shipped back to you via usps.
Other shipping methods will be more. If we next day'd each way it could be a 3 day total.
<span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'>Price - $225. </span>This includes USPS shipping back to you. You will pay shipping to me.
For an additional $85 I can put arp extended wheel studs on both sides for you. This is perfect if you are wanting to run a slip on spacer up to 1.5 inches. Goodwin sells the arp kits for $50 a side, so this is cheaper and you dont have to do them.
Once I get this started I can start buying them and charging a core.
I believe ma motorsports charges 400 or so for them...
<span style='font-size:14pt;line-height:100%'>SEND THEM TO:
Level7TUNE
9634 S Kensington dr
Houston, TX 77031
with a $225.00 Money order made out to Chelsea DeNofa</span>
The increase will depend on your wheel size/offset. With a sportmax 15x8 0 offset. It is about a 15 degree increase.
Last edited by x808drifter; Aug 2, 2012 at 03:11 AM.
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Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 238
Total Cats: 0
From: Wahiawa, HI
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Well they wont make you much faster you can already turn the wheel past the amount of slip angle that the tires can take. And you'll pretty much need power steering to be able to man handle the wheel around.
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Multi-classing makes all types of driving worse.
Drifting: depower, or add a good power steering cooler. Add modded knuckles and/or rack spacers.
Lowspeed stuff will be a pain steering wise, but the autocorrect when drifting is great.
Autox: power steering, maybe a small cooler.
Road course: Depowered rack.
The compromise: rack spacers on power steering. Maybe a small power steering cooler.
Drifting: depower, or add a good power steering cooler. Add modded knuckles and/or rack spacers.
Lowspeed stuff will be a pain steering wise, but the autocorrect when drifting is great.
Autox: power steering, maybe a small cooler.
Road course: Depowered rack.
The compromise: rack spacers on power steering. Maybe a small power steering cooler.
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 111
Total Cats: 8
I dont know of many drifters stripping power steering. With increased caster you are going to have your hands full.
They will give you more responsive/twitchy steering. Your ackerman would get stuffed up though, so would get increased front tyre wear and (thinking about it, not real life experience) less stability, Im thinking this would effect tight turning more than gentle bends...
They will give you more responsive/twitchy steering. Your ackerman would get stuffed up though, so would get increased front tyre wear and (thinking about it, not real life experience) less stability, Im thinking this would effect tight turning more than gentle bends...
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Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 237
Total Cats: 1
From: Fort Worth, Texas
doesnt it really mess up the ackerman AND then the scrub radius as the steering turns?
on top of trusting someone in their garage to re-weld cast iron back together on a super critical part of the car that you intend to haul ***** around a racetrack or street in...
on top of trusting someone in their garage to re-weld cast iron back together on a super critical part of the car that you intend to haul ***** around a racetrack or street in...
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Newb
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 9
Total Cats: 0
i run these on my car. the ackerman issue i have only ever noticed when crawling and the wheel is fully cranked. however... i can do a full U-turn on a residential street without touching curbs. at high speeds or autoxing, i have never noticed it.
my one issue so far is not quite enough off set. just bearly scraping the inside of my lip of my rim when cranked left. very minor. i just have to shave down an 1/8" off my upper control arm to correct it. otherwise, this is a great idea imo
my one issue so far is not quite enough off set. just bearly scraping the inside of my lip of my rim when cranked left. very minor. i just have to shave down an 1/8" off my upper control arm to correct it. otherwise, this is a great idea imo
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Wouldn't these also make the steering feeling more numb, the same way the forward mount V8R kit and Boss Frog V8 kit makes steering feel? Instead of pushing the rack forward, you'd be pushing the tie rods back. Between that and the ackerman angle, I've walked away from the thought of trying these for quicker turning.
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I'm also not exactly sure how these increase the real steering angle possible. I also ready rub on the sway bar and control arm just before fully lock. And as a steering quickener? Run a de-powered manual rack or a cheap steering quickener box if you want to reduce your needed inputs.
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Normally you put them under the dash in the steering column. If your class doesnt allow you to modify the steering in the passenger compartment (like mine) you can put it anywhere on the steering shaft. It just needs to be somewhat close to the chassis because it needs to be very solidity mounted to the chassis.
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