Another 5spd vs 6spd Thread
Not to beat this one to death, but wanted some fresh opinions on the strength of the 5spd. I recently blew my 1.6 (was my own fault, and had it coming) by running just over 300hp and tore up my connecting rods. I am swapping in a 1.8 and would have a hp goal of about 350ish. That being said, i'd like to keep the 5 speed (already have a torsen rear end), but while i am swapping this engine i figured if i was going to drop a 6spd in, now would be the time. My question is this, am i really going to run the risk of tearing that 5spd apart on the street? I dont track this car (not yet at least), and have heard the 6spd shifter kinda sucks, as well as the final gear for it is actually taller than the 5spd. Basically, if i keep this thing under 400hp, is that 5spd safe for the street? or should i swap? Sorry again for bringing this up, just wanted some realistic answers.
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No matter how many times you ask this, the answer will remain the same.
5 speed past 250hp its only a matter of time. |
I figured. So if i am upgrading the trans, is the 6spd from 99-05 the best option? Just thinking outside the box....
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Its the cheaper of the better options. Its not the best option.
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Ok, but will the 6spd handle upwards of 400hp? or am i still at risk?
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In a street car, yes
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It'll handle more power than your motor-that-you-didn't-mention-you-were-building will.
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OK. Thanks guys. Last question. I found a motor from a 2002. Can i assume that i can swap in this motor, but run a head from a 94-97 in order for my MSPNP2 to work correctly (no VVT), or should i stick with a motor from 94-97?
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Doesn't matter. It'll still blow up before your HP goal unless you build it first.
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i'm just talking about the main components. I plan on having the head done, as well as the pistons and rods. Just talking about the general idea. Could i "drop-in" a motor from a 2002 and use a head from the 94-97 era so my ECU will be happy. I know i should put this in another thread, but y'all seem to know plenty to answer this one.
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Stock rods are good for 250whp if your tune is spot-on. This applies to all 1.8 engines, all years.
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Basically, will it all bolt up and fit. I can build out the inner components later.
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Yes, but why would you do that? Throw the 94-97 head in the garbage where it belongs and get VVTuner. If you can't afford it right now, run the vvt head without vvt control, it will still be better than an NA head.
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Ditching the VVT head is a seriously misguided move.
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"Guys can i take a good motor and turn it into a shitty one so i don't take advantage of any of the cool things it has to offer?"
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i wasnt talking about ditching it. Just using the other head for the time being since i already have one laying around. Looking for some answers, thats all.
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Originally Posted by wolfram
(Post 1081647)
i wasnt talking about ditching it. Just using the other head for the time being since i already have one laying around. Looking for some answers, thats all.
But you'd be stupid to do it. |
I guess while I am at it, i can ask another "stupid" question. Are the mazdaspeed pistons and rods really any different than the stock ones? I only ask, as i found some at a good price compared to $1500 i'll spend on aftermarket ones. If my target goals are less than 400hp, would these mazdaspeed pistons and rods hold up?
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1081645)
Ditching the VVT head is a seriously misguided move.
How long has it been since the first documented VVT control showed up, and the first dyno results? |
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