Another 5spd vs 6spd Thread
 

Not to beat this one to death, but wanted some fresh opinions on the strength of the 5spd. I recently blew my 1.6 (was my own fault, and had it coming) by running just over 300hp and tore up my connecting rods. I am swapping in a 1.8 and would have a hp goal of about 350ish. That being said, i'd like to keep the 5 speed (already have a torsen rear end), but while i am swapping this engine i figured if i was going to drop a 6spd in, now would be the time. My question is this, am i really going to run the risk of tearing that 5spd apart on the street? I dont track this car (not yet at least), and have heard the 6spd shifter kinda sucks, as well as the final gear for it is actually taller than the 5spd. Basically, if i keep this thing under 400hp, is that 5spd safe for the street? or should i swap? Sorry again for bringing this up, just wanted some realistic answers.

No matter how many times you ask this, the answer will remain the same.
5 speed past 250hp its only a matter of time.

I figured. So if i am upgrading the trans, is the 6spd from 99-05 the best option? Just thinking outside the box....

Its the cheaper of the better options. Its not the best option.

Ok, but will the 6spd handle upwards of 400hp? or am i still at risk?

In a street car, yes

It'll handle more power than your motor-that-you-didn't-mention-you-were-building will.

OK. Thanks guys. Last question. I found a motor from a 2002. Can i assume that i can swap in this motor, but run a head from a 94-97 in order for my MSPNP2 to work correctly (no VVT), or should i stick with a motor from 94-97?

Doesn't matter. It'll still blow up before your HP goal unless you build it first.

i'm just talking about the main components. I plan on having the head done, as well as the pistons and rods. Just talking about the general idea. Could i "drop-in" a motor from a 2002 and use a head from the 94-97 era so my ECU will be happy. I know i should put this in another thread, but y'all seem to know plenty to answer this one.

Stock rods are good for 250whp if your tune is spot-on. This applies to all 1.8 engines, all years.

Basically, will it all bolt up and fit. I can build out the inner components later.

Yes, but why would you do that? Throw the 94-97 head in the garbage where it belongs and get VVTuner. If you can't afford it right now, run the vvt head without vvt control, it will still be better than an NA head.

Ditching the VVT head is a seriously misguided move.

"Guys can i take a good motor and turn it into a shitty one so i don't take advantage of any of the cool things it has to offer?"

i wasnt talking about ditching it. Just using the other head for the time being since i already have one laying around. Looking for some answers, thats all.

The answer is "Yes, you CAN use the 94-97 head."

But you'd be stupid to do it.

I guess while I am at it, i can ask another "stupid" question. Are the mazdaspeed pistons and rods really any different than the stock ones? I only ask, as i found some at a good price compared to $1500 i'll spend on aftermarket ones. If my target goals are less than 400hp, would these mazdaspeed pistons and rods hold up?

How long has this myth been around?
How long has it been since the first documented VVT control showed up, and the first dyno results?

I can't take it anymore.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1386784085

What do you mean are they "really" any different than the stock ones?

Have you been told that they are, or did you arrive at this conclusion yourself?


Let me make this simple for you:


The ONLY BP that would have a hope in hell at holding 350hp is what came in the Familia GTR. Not the GTX, not a Mazdaspeed anything, but the Familia GTR ONLY.

It's called the BPD. There were 2000 made, ever. Buying one is more expensive than building your bottom end.

If you want 350hp, just build a bottom end and stop fucking around.

This applies to all 1.8 engines, all years.
all 1.8 engines, all years.
all 1.8 engines
all



Did I say, "Almost all?"
Did I say, "Except the Mazdaspeed?"

EDIT: Familia GTR was not available for sale anywhere in North or South America.

Guys, as long as we're asking stupid questions: has anyone done any 4 door miata conversions?

are there any 3 cylinder miata's?

how about a miata mini van?

How about a BEAMS 3sge?

how hard would it be to convert a miata to FWD?

Can i drift my FWD Miata?

I feel like Ford engine swaps should be easy in a Miata, because Ford owns Mazda anyways.

but only if you overnight it from japan before race warz

how about a rear engine miata with remote mount turbo in the front bumper?

with lambo doors and skyline taillights

with quarters jbwelded to the pistons to raise compression and a thick head gasket to lower it back down

My 3-cylinder ecoboost miata after I build one. Gotta have dem EMPEEGEES

I thought i had some decent and relevant questions. I guess i wont ask anymore. Sorry.

guys what would be better: turbo or supercharger?

Quick question: how many more gears does the 6 speed have over the 5 speed?


tia

--------------------------------------------------------------------
1997 MAZDA EUNOS ROADSTAR MX-5 MIATA
1.6L shortnose swap
M-Tuned EGR Reroute
reare break delete
Mishimoto radiator
Randall's cowl intake
Reverse AFM mod
AMSoil blinker fluid
K&N intake CARB EO # D-269-37
17" RACING HART wheels
Hawk Ceramic pads
Linglong L688

hi i'm trying to do a single lug swap on my miata any tips?

Yes. :fael:

3 Cyl miata

There are also 12 cylinder Miatas.

You all genuinely had me laughing out loud through all of page 2. Props to all of you.

Guy gets lucky by getting his question answered, so he decides to ask MORE questions that have been answered a million times. Just brilliant.

So but I have a question tho. Like, how bad of a drift car is the Miata? Maybe that TURNS guy can answer this question. Or maybe not? Maybe he doesn't know what he's talking about so I'm asking all of you.

But I have a lead on a Miata and I want to build a drift missile. Do you think my insurance company would cover me if I wall it? How much would insurance cost to cover that?

only if you're 16 bro

But I'm 17 :(

Well at least I get laid. unlike you crotchety old grip drivers.

What part of "stock rods are only good to 250whp" do you not understand?

Also: I'm not sure where you are getting the $1500 number for rods and pistons.

Supertech Pistons Miata - $477
Manley Forged Connecting Rods Miata - $359

Y U NO SEARCH? YOU MAKE KITTEN SAD!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1386797578

Find me cheap rods and pistons for an F2, kthx.

Um, no? :fawk: My comment was directed at OP, I think I somehow managed to miss all of Page2 here :loser:

Do you know how I know you went to public school within the last ten years?

Do you know what it means when I describe the Miata as having a low polar moment of inertia? Probably not. You probably won't even enrich your knowledge base by Googling it. Just like we don't base our turbo choices upon what spare turbos we have laying around that we acquired cheap, you don't choose just any rear wheel drive that happens to be cheap and say "I should spend my money making a drift car out of this." For certain chassis configurations (including the Miata) it is a very poor choice. Ostensibly, dogs and cats are similar in many regards and are of the same basic configuration (four legs, mammal, tail, etc.) and are much more similar than dogs and dolphins, but a police officer would not be able to use a cat as a service animal to sniff for drugs and apprehend fleeing criminals because it is ill suited for the task. Do you see many Ford F150s being used as drift cars? How about Smart ForTwos? Sure, both can do burnouts given enough power and small enough and hard enough tires, but can they easily carry a drift angle without over- or under-rotating? Remember, we want a low level of difficulty if we are actually trying to do something competitively. Even if it is the equivalent of an all male nude leapfrog team.

tl;dr it takes more than rear wheel drive to make a good choice for a drift car

I know it was... i just figured since you were on a roll finding internals, i'd bug you for my Miata. :):giggle:

I am coming up on my 10-year high school reunion this summer! So nice of you to remember :)

BAHAHA you forgot about this thread already, specifically posts 63 and 64?



https://www.miataturbo.net/insert-bs...r-76368/page4/

I'm a bit hurt that you thought I was being serious. The grammar is all part of it, sir. :loser:

DISCLAIMER: Every question I posted in this thread was facetious. And I do know what polar moment of inertia is, and I think that Mazda stating this as the reason for using a top-mounted instead of a front-mounted intercooler on the Mazdaspeed6 is silly. Cuz 15 pound intercooler on 3500 lb car = nobody would notice the difference.

I took it as Sixshooter trolling, but...

Ha... Good point. Thought maybe he was just getting old.

Either way... at least one of you was trolling. If he didn't catch it, then you were successful, and should take great pride in that.

I drifted my F250 once, but I didn't hit anything so I must have failed :facepalm:

I tried to drift my dad's '01 Cummins 5-speed once, in a snowy cul-de-sac. Understeer replaced oversteer, and the neighbor's mailbox suffered. Dad never learned the real reason for the scratch on his passenger side fender.

Maybe I'm old enough now to tell him the real story. Sold the truck years ago.

Not trolling, per se.
I was hoping we could keep playing awhile longer. I was going to suggest if you were dead set on building a Miata that would drift well that you add about 6 inches to the wheelbase at the doors and transmission tunnel. The actual logic is that 240sx and rx7 are actually better drift cars at least partially because of a longer wheelbase. The logic is sound.

It would be great if you eventually buy into the modification so that future searchers of a thread can think you went through with it and ask how it worked out. I have pictures of a Miata I sawzalled in half that would go well with the story. Somebody should start a thread.