Axle differences
#23
Boost Pope
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Not sure what you mean by "axle tube."
The important difference between an MSM axle and a non-MSM NB axle, for our purposes, is that the section circled in red below is larger in diameter on the MSM axle, as is the opening in the differential which receives it.
Thus, an MSM axle will not fit into a non-MSM diff, while trying to insert a non-MSM axle into an MSM
diff is like tossing a hot dog down a hallway.
Yes, the two-piece '94-'95 axles are the same length overall as the one-piece '95.5-'05 axles.
The important difference between an MSM axle and a non-MSM NB axle, for our purposes, is that the section circled in red below is larger in diameter on the MSM axle, as is the opening in the differential which receives it.
Thus, an MSM axle will not fit into a non-MSM diff, while trying to insert a non-MSM axle into an MSM
diff is like tossing a hot dog down a hallway.
Does that mean that the 2 piece axles are the same length as the one piece items ?
#25
I meant the actual shaft. No CVJoints, no stub axles, nothing.
Right now I know for a fact that the 1.6 shafts are longer than the 1.8's but all joints interchange.
Have no intentions of swapping to one piece setups as I am up to my eyeballs in 1.6 parts but it's nice to know that the local autoparts barn has replacements cheap.
#35
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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#36
I will warn you guys about Advance's Axles (and hell AutoZones, too), they were complete **** for me on the cars before my Miata days. Granted they were all FWD. But they were all at normal ride heights (no "hella slammed yo" Civics). And 85% of the driving was daily, normal driving. One set the boots ripped in about 4k miles, the next set "clunked" and had play within 15k miles, and the third and final set didn't fit the axle seal perfectly and always leaked. and ALL three sets were out of balance, which caused shaking at highway speed. I sourced a used OEM set with low miles for around $100 and bought them, never had issues for another 50k until I sold the car.
After all the time/money I spent on those cheap Chinese axles, I wish I had just paid $150-$200 a piece for an OEM unit from the get go that would last 150k.
After all the time/money I spent on those cheap Chinese axles, I wish I had just paid $150-$200 a piece for an OEM unit from the get go that would last 150k.
#38
Advanced Auto are advertised as new axles not re-builds. probably cheap ones. Curious if they are better or worse than stock.
Orielly, Autozone, and Napa are all re-bulds. I can say If They want my Cores back there aint a single part on them that should be re-used. About the only thing left that isn't obviously **** is the center shaft section that is if it hasn't twisted off yet after a year of use in my car. Like rebuilt calipers it’s probably a bit hit and miss as to the severity of their prior life.
I’m pretty sure ones from Mazda are also re-builds. Probably from the same places as the others. I know Mazda doesn’t sell new calipers they are all re-builds.
Orielly, Autozone, and Napa are all re-bulds. I can say If They want my Cores back there aint a single part on them that should be re-used. About the only thing left that isn't obviously **** is the center shaft section that is if it hasn't twisted off yet after a year of use in my car. Like rebuilt calipers it’s probably a bit hit and miss as to the severity of their prior life.
I’m pretty sure ones from Mazda are also re-builds. Probably from the same places as the others. I know Mazda doesn’t sell new calipers they are all re-builds.
#40
With changes I made this year for focused autocross I have a bit more torque and I think the gearing changes with a 4.778 rear and the Quaife transmission followed by a few pro-solos with drag race launches on high grip concrete I’ve upped the loading on them quite a bit. I have now twisted one of the shafts in two. ~340 ft-lbs of torque at between 4500 to 6500 rpm.
Not sure I want to upgrade to $800+ dollar options designed to meet the torque level I’m putting through them as the axles seem to be a good point to keep a fusable link in the system. They are relatively cheap and very easy to replace.