I replaced the axles on my NB2 street/track toy just for maintenance purposes.

The car developed a vibration at speed, at first thought it was due to diff bushings done at same time. Then LH seal at diff began leaking post Sebring.

Discovered drivers LH axle had .033" runout. RH only had .004" this was a "new" axle.

Replaced it with a rebuilt one from same distributor and it has .020" runout?? vibration not as bad, but started leaking again. 3 seals later I wondering what the spec is on runout and am ready to buy a new factory one.

See video for axle runout demonstration.

 

You can't press the axle seals all the way in the diff housing. There's a little angle cut on the axle where it matches up with the seal. It will leak oil if the seal is all the way in.
Press the seal in only where the main part of the seal is flush with the outside of the diff housing. There is a little rubber 'flange' on the seal the sticks out beyond the seal. That should be outside the diff housing.
I learned this after swapping my diff and seals, I got black flagged in the 1st track session as the diff oil on the left side would drip on the exhaust on every right turn. RedLine gear oil has a unique smell when burnt. I spent the next two sessions finding and replacing the oil seals.

What you're measuring in the video is on the other side of the CV joint from the diff housing axle seal. This would indicate an issue with the CV joint, not the end of the axle.

 

Yes Redline has a very pungent almost acidic smell Want to get this fixed before next time around turn 17 at Sebring.

Will try seating seal less. Think in the 4 seals so far, I have tried multiple depths from flush to fully seated below flush. Your right if you seat all the way they leak like mad.

Really seems to be from axle whip/vibration at speed 75+ causing seal to loose contact with shaft?

Measured runout inbd of CV side and almost none, the runout is defiantly seems to be from the inbd CV itself reflected on axle runout? Axle itself seems straight.

Also did what I could to check carrier bearing, no metal in oil report & discernable play?

What are the odds of getting 2 bad axles in a row?

 

 

To second what Curly said, I'd trust used OEM over new/reman parts store axles any day. Could also have them balanced at a driveshaft shop before installing, they can be straightened to a degree

 

Ended up ordering one from Mazda Motorsports.

 

Did it solve the problem?

 

Its not installed yet.
Turns out when you order an axle from MMS even though it is for an antilock brake car it comes without the tone ring.
Have a new ring but have not installed yet.

 

sorry wrong thread, please delete.