Before I buy bushings (parts list check)
 

Already have diff bushings, non bushing endlinks, and racing beat sways so all I should need is the Energy suspension base kit (control arms only) and they are offset for more camber correct? Would call 949 but they seem to be out of the office.

I do not believe the ES bushings are offset. I have a set at home, and they look like they are drilled right through the center. IIRC, the only bushings that are offset for the control arms are the Delrin ones from ISC Racing.

http://iscracing.net/miatasuspension.html

Get a 3-Jaw Puller set from Harbor Freight. Much easier to remove the stock diff bushings with that than with the recommended fire/air chisel. You will still get to use fire to burn the rubber off of the bearing bushing plates, though, so pyromaniacs rejoice. :rofl: While you're there, get the $60 ball joint press kit (looks like a big c-clamp).

[NA & NB] Zerk fittings when installing poly bushings - ClubRoadster.net

This link used to have great pictures of where to install zerks, but his picture host went down. I wish every forum hosted linked pictures like MT does. I also bought flush mount zerks for my install for extra clearance. Haven't installed any of it yet, though.

I don't think they are offset. I installed them on my car and I don't remember any offset.

They're definitely not offset. I made my own offset upper fronts from Delrin, as noted above ISC sells them as well. The only issue I've noted with them is the alignment shop couldn't get me below 5 degrees of caster (at -2.3 camber). Makes the depowered power rack a bit heavy at paddock speeds.

I tried the 3 jaw method. Nuked the threads. Tried a real press, no dice. Tried the oxy-acetlyne torch and press, nope. Tried the Air hammer, that did something. Used the torch and the air hammer and they came out in like 10 minutes. But seriously, fuck those things. :vash:

3 jaw puller method works if you have the metal piece from the U joint press kit. I found that it didn't work otherwise. Also, you need to use the smallest 3 jaw puller from HF. It comes in a kit of 3 (6",4", and 3" I think).

I didn't have the ball joint set or the 3-jaw puller when I did mine. That's anecdotal advice from the sticky in this forum, but that's definitely how I'm getting my poly bushings out of my 4.10 T1 and into my 4.30 T2. I wound up burning out the rubber and trying to collapse the metal collar with a punch and a sledge. That didn't work. I tried using a shop press, but they had nothing to use to press it out with. After exhausting all other options I finally settled with the air chisel. The master mechanic offered to do it, but I insisted that I do it, because if I cracked my diff housing I could deal with it, and if he did it I'd have to kill him. No offense.

I white knuckled the whole thing, but didn't even nick the housing. First time using an air chisel too.

I r Noob and didn't sub to my own thread.

Called about the isc and have not heard back. What is with this zerks thing? Do you need to re-grease consistently?

well you should. Probably once a year or two. I find that the sleeves and bushings get a bit stiff after a year. thats probably about 6-8 events and definitely a rainy event in there.

you can probably take the sleeve out, grease it and put it back in. But that sounds like way more work than putting the grease fittings in. I did that the first time.

Not sure what you lose if you don't regrease. I guess the poly bushing will wear out quicker and some loss in the freedom of movement that is provided with non-impregnated sleeves.

I'll just drill a hole an just add a screw in cap.

you can buy a 20 pack of zerk fittings from HF for dirt cheap. Whatever works though.

ordered from isc, guy on the phone said you don't need to grease and that he never has.

You don't grease delrin, you grease the polyurethane bushing.

haha, was under the impression he was getting the ES bushings in the OP. Guess not! mb.

Some time yesterday I found the ISC option and took it as they would ship that day.

I ran the isc on my old na. Had all 8 arms done. Squeaked like crazy. Even with zerks installed and grease pumped in. Perhaps you'll have a better experience. One of the front sphericals also developed some play after a couple track events and about 2000 miles of street driving.

with delrin you don't grease the sleeve. you generally just put some grease on the outside if any and go with it. Its a race component after all, so noise and what not is to be expected.