Before I buy bushings (parts list check)
#1
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Before I buy bushings (parts list check)
Already have diff bushings, non bushing endlinks, and racing beat sways so all I should need is the Energy suspension base kit (control arms only) and they are offset for more camber correct? Would call 949 but they seem to be out of the office.
#2
I do not believe the ES bushings are offset. I have a set at home, and they look like they are drilled right through the center. IIRC, the only bushings that are offset for the control arms are the Delrin ones from ISC Racing.
http://iscracing.net/miatasuspension.html
Get a 3-Jaw Puller set from Harbor Freight. Much easier to remove the stock diff bushings with that than with the recommended fire/air chisel. You will still get to use fire to burn the rubber off of thebearing bushing plates, though, so pyromaniacs rejoice. While you're there, get the $60 ball joint press kit (looks like a big c-clamp).
[NA & NB] Zerk fittings when installing poly bushings - ClubRoadster.net
This link used to have great pictures of where to install zerks, but his picture host went down. I wish every forum hosted linked pictures like MT does. I also bought flush mount zerks for my install for extra clearance. Haven't installed any of it yet, though.
http://iscracing.net/miatasuspension.html
Get a 3-Jaw Puller set from Harbor Freight. Much easier to remove the stock diff bushings with that than with the recommended fire/air chisel. You will still get to use fire to burn the rubber off of the
[NA & NB] Zerk fittings when installing poly bushings - ClubRoadster.net
This link used to have great pictures of where to install zerks, but his picture host went down. I wish every forum hosted linked pictures like MT does. I also bought flush mount zerks for my install for extra clearance. Haven't installed any of it yet, though.
Last edited by TheScaryOne; 11-21-2013 at 04:27 PM.
#4
They're definitely not offset. I made my own offset upper fronts from Delrin, as noted above ISC sells them as well. The only issue I've noted with them is the alignment shop couldn't get me below 5 degrees of caster (at -2.3 camber). Makes the depowered power rack a bit heavy at paddock speeds.
#5
I do not believe the ES bushings are offset. I have a set at home, and they look like they are drilled right through the center. IIRC, the only bushings that are offset for the control arms are the Delrin ones from ISC Racing.
Miata Suspension
Get a 3-Jaw Puller set from Harbor Freight. Much easier to remove the stock diff bushings with that than with the recommended fire/air chisel. You will still get to use fire to burn the rubber off of thebearing bushing plates, though, so pyromaniacs rejoice. While you're there, get the $60 ball joint press kit (looks like a big c-clamp).
[NA & NB] Zerk fittings when installing poly bushings - ClubRoadster.net
This link used to have great pictures of where to install zerks, but his picture host went down. I wish every forum hosted linked pictures like MT does. I also bought flush mount zerks for my install for extra clearance. Haven't installed any of it yet, though.
Miata Suspension
Get a 3-Jaw Puller set from Harbor Freight. Much easier to remove the stock diff bushings with that than with the recommended fire/air chisel. You will still get to use fire to burn the rubber off of the
[NA & NB] Zerk fittings when installing poly bushings - ClubRoadster.net
This link used to have great pictures of where to install zerks, but his picture host went down. I wish every forum hosted linked pictures like MT does. I also bought flush mount zerks for my install for extra clearance. Haven't installed any of it yet, though.
#7
I didn't have the ball joint set or the 3-jaw puller when I did mine. That's anecdotal advice from the sticky in this forum, but that's definitely how I'm getting my poly bushings out of my 4.10 T1 and into my 4.30 T2. I wound up burning out the rubber and trying to collapse the metal collar with a punch and a sledge. That didn't work. I tried using a shop press, but they had nothing to use to press it out with. After exhausting all other options I finally settled with the air chisel. The master mechanic offered to do it, but I insisted that I do it, because if I cracked my diff housing I could deal with it, and if he did it I'd have to kill him. No offense.
I white knuckled the whole thing, but didn't even nick the housing. First time using an air chisel too.
I white knuckled the whole thing, but didn't even nick the housing. First time using an air chisel too.
#9
you can probably take the sleeve out, grease it and put it back in. But that sounds like way more work than putting the grease fittings in. I did that the first time.
Not sure what you lose if you don't regrease. I guess the poly bushing will wear out quicker and some loss in the freedom of movement that is provided with non-impregnated sleeves.
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