Looks like he's been banned for being a former vendor. Typical IB things.

 

The 340-1757 balance bar is the adjuster, and the 340-4990 remote adjuster cable attaches directly to it.

Bias adjustment is done by rotating the threaded balance bar which changes the pivot point and changes how the force is divided between the front and rear masters. You don't need a hydraulic bias adjuster like what normal miatas run.

 

so i did my version, although i felt like the balance bar was too lose, so i 3d printer a 7mm spacer, still allows it to move around but it doens't flop all over the place.
also, i may have sized my front cylinder wrong.....
i also need ideas on a remote reservoir to feed the dual setup.

 

The balance bar is supposed to have some wiggle to it. Wilwood recommends using 2 quarters to set the gap (1/8”). They have a good video on how to set it up

 

keeping this thread alive, this is how far ive gone.
i did a plate in aluminum to close the ugly hole, powder-coated wrinkle black (its what was on the gun at the time)

now, i am replacing all the ugly hardline with stainless braided lines for a cleaner look.
i may hide them inside the firewall.




upload image by url

 

looking good! I’d love to know what stainless brake lines you go with. I’ve been throwing that idea around myself and haven’t decided yet. Nice work getting the 323(?) clutch master to fit. I have one sitting in a box but haven’t attempted to make use of it

 

oh these are actually wilwood masters, all three of them.

the lines, im using some i purchased from amazon.
i figured out the fittings and all.

 

so, after the setup and bleding, i feel like the car doens't brake enough. i know it would will be hard to press, but i cna't even lock up the tires no matter how hard i step on the brakes.


can someone confirm this?

0.7 for the rear calipers
0.625 for the front...or do i have them backwards?

 

I've built a bias pedalbox for my '91 Eunos (Mx5) but wanted to keep a sensible pedal feel, this I did by altering the pedal ratio

standard Mazda pedal ratio is to suit a servo-assisted system so doesnt lend itself for 'keep-fit' braking!

this was done by cutting the pedal and hortening it to achieve the desired ratio and repositioning the pivot-point in the pedalbox to suit...
there was aditional work as I wanted to recreate the origonal pedal-pad 'swing' and allow the ballancebar to 'swing' in as gentle an arc as possible so the cylinder pushrods didn't 'bind' when entering the cylinder...

I cannot remember the measurements and dimensions - they are written somewhere but....




some details in my M5's thread...
https://mighty5s.com/post/45038/thread


the evolution of pedals (top standard)


test-assembly in the 'dummy' bulkhead (cut from a scrap bodyshell)


how the cylinders are mounted.

.625" front
.7" rear


another view, can see the plumbing, I've used self-assembled braided hose and running the front passanger as well as the rear in through the bulkhead with the passanger side re emerging above the innerwing to run to the wheelarch.

^^work in progress so as yet untested

Rich.

 

hmm, wow. thats a lot of work.
imma have to build a pedal fro scratch!
**** me...

ok, i'll give that a try.

so i guess the piston sizes are correct, you didn't make meniton on what size goes to back and rear.

 

was a bit of work but worthwhile

I strted by drawing the pedal's 'swing' on paper, fixed the pivot and pencil on the footpad. then with my desired ratio drew the diferent swing - I 'doglegged' the pedal to correct the swing and redrilled the pivot-point lower & foreward on the pedalbox to account for this (the origonal pivot hole position is visable on the strengthening sideplate I welded onto the modified pedalbox)



sorta




Rich.