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Old 03-31-2009, 11:05 PM   #1
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Default brake flare nut help

I ruined a flare nut and I have a leak at the prop valve. Can someone point me i the right direction for a replacement nut and the proper flare-tool to fix this ****?

I could just use channel locks and teflon, but that's asking for trouble.
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Old 03-31-2009, 11:47 PM   #2
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Actually if the threads and taper are still good, you'd be safe to back it out, put some Teflon tape on, and tighten it back up with the channel locks, which is what I'd do if I were you. If you really need to replace the nut, you'll have to cut a bit of the old brake line off with a pipe cutter (needs to have a perfectly straight cut) deburr the cut, and use a DOUBLE flaring tool, after of course you've slid the new nut on. Hopefully after you've done all this you'll still have enough slack to reach the proportioning valve, as it'll take about .5" off the line. All this is much much much easier with the line completely removed from the car, and good luck finding metric fittings, although its possible.
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Old 03-31-2009, 11:55 PM   #3
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Make sure you remember to put the nut on BEFORE you make the flare...
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Old 04-01-2009, 12:01 AM   #4
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How exactly did you ruin it. I've accidentally cross threaded those things before and ruined the top thread. I just take a file and knock of the thread and start again. As long as the seat angle is good it can be fixed that way safely.

Post picks of what you did.
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Old 04-01-2009, 12:50 AM   #5
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he rounded the nut I believe, so a wrench won't grip it. I've done that before to two or so wrench flats, luckily the third will randomly work.
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Old 04-01-2009, 01:21 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
he rounded the nut I believe
hustler's just too damn swole
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Old 04-01-2009, 01:41 AM   #7
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Teflon tape won't do **** to repair damaged brake fittings. They seal at the flare, the threads only put pressure on the flare to get it to seal.

As has been said above, if the threads are messed up at the end then they can be filed. If the nut hex is rounded off then the only real fix is replacing the nut and reflaring the tube. The nut and tools should be able to be purchased at any decent parts store.
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Old 04-01-2009, 04:28 AM   #8
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I rented a flaring kit and got the replacement parts at Auto Zone for like 30 dollars when I did that. Only cost me like 8 bucks when I turned the flaring kit back in.
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Old 04-01-2009, 09:32 AM   #9
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Quote:
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hustler's just too damn swole
this is correct. Corky also said I'm the only person who's broken 10mm ARP studs so far, lol. I think it was a defect. I'm the man, don't ever forget it, ------.
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Old 04-01-2009, 09:33 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neogenesis2004 View Post
How exactly did you ruin it. I've accidentally cross threaded those things before and ruined the top thread. I just take a file and knock of the thread and start again. As long as the seat angle is good it can be fixed that way safely.

Post picks of what you did.
The seat and threads look fine, but this one nut wouldn't back out and died. I minus whale try to use the teflon to get it to thread deeper, and hopefully seal-up. I guess I'll just go to the auto-parts store with the old valve and hope for the best.
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