Right now I'm trying to decide if I want to relax and wing it tomorrow with bad brakes, or work for about 4 hours and get the bigger master in
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 637351)
And now. . . a track party.
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 637571)
. . .wing it tomorrow with bad brakes,
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 637351)
And now, for my next act, I will purchase a Sport brake master cylinder and booster from local swap yard and install at 3am the, morning before a track party.
You have more options if you already have an adjustable prop valve installed, as the union for the front circuit that no longer has to pass through the prop valve is an opportunity for a tee. See Bob's setup over on m.net for a pic. |
Wirelessly posted
It took 90-minutes to move the lines and bolt it in on my back...now, the reverse bleed. If you have the FM prop valve kit, get the Lines and fittings and stock prop valve to bend them up instead of making lines. |
sure hope that works. i'm like the worlds laziest bleeder and haven't had any problems except with brake fade... and the time i lost the brakes completely after brian swapped the 1.8 brake hardware in. some problem with a T and it leaked all the fluid out and the pedal went to the floor...
i still say a c-clamp on the rears would tell you what to chase. or cap the fucking things off completely where the hard line ends. |
It feels good up and down the street, I'll be on the track in 6-hours.
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Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 637726)
It feels good up and down the street, I'll be on the track in 6-hours.
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I know it was already mentioned in this thread, and disregarded, but I did adjust the rod on the MC, only sightly. I wanted there to be as little travel as possible. It worked well but took 2 or 3 trys to get it adjusted to the point that the brakes would not drag. Now my pedal moves about .5 to .75" total, I feel it gives me very quick and precise brake modulation, I don't have to "push" the pedal down at all, just apply pressure. O yes my set up is the 4 wheel Good-win BBK, w/ stock MC, and Flyin miata prop valve kit, Amsoil brake fluid, and Cobalt friction XR2, XR4 set up.
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tell me why you didnt bleed it from the top two bleeders on that brake caliper instead of the bottom?
do air bubbles not rise in your garage? |
Wirelessly posted
Originally Posted by y8s
tell me why you didnt bleed it from the top two bleeders on that brake caliper instead of the bottom?
do air bubbles not rise in your garage? |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 637993)
Wirelessly posted
You have to bleed all 4 on each caliper, crap always comes out. |
it still comes out if you do the wheels after....
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So, how was the track?
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I fucking hate that track, first of all. The pedal felt good but I definitely have pad knock back...and I'm not sure why so I'm tightening all the hubs and going to see what that does at the track. The pedal felt good until the cool down lap...then it dropped to the floor. I just bled the brakes and the fluid is clear with very few bubbles if any so I'm stumped. Caliper temps show now higher than 400* so I doubt I'm boiling fluid.
If fluid boils does it immediately darken or can it stay clear? |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 638143)
The pedal felt good until the cool down lap...then it dropped to the floor. I just bled the brakes and the fluid is clear with very few bubbles if any so I'm stumped. Caliper temps show now higher than 400* so I doubt I'm boiling fluid.
you can move the mc out of the engine bay and add some redundancy at same time. http://www.outlawraceparts.com/image...view/til72.jpg
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 638143)
If fluid boils does it immediately darken or can it stay clear?
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