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Old 05-24-2012, 11:27 PM   #1
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Default clutch engagement, pressure issue. bad master?

recently I blew my 5 speed on the track, typical 3 gear failure. a week or so before that happened, I replaced the slave because I knew it was a weak point and the boot was wet, but not sure if it was brake fluid. I also noticed that the engagement point was very very low, on the floor and hoped a new slave would help. it did not. occasionally I would need to pump up the clutch to get the car into gear but once I did that it seemed fine.

I just installed a low mileage 6 speed that looked to be in good shape so I put it in and replaced the fluid, but i did not replace the throwout bearing or the clutch fork. now the engagement point might even be lower on the floor and the car wants to move a little before going into first gear, very bad, and is difficult to get into gears. I believe I have a leak or a pressure issue.

the car only has 60k and on it and I want to troubleshoot this issue before pulling the trans because it does not seem like a trans issue. the car does not make any grinding noise like with a bad throw out bearing.

where should I focus my attention next? the master might be bad? how can i trouble shoot or test the master? I noticed when I bleed the clutch very little fluid comes out. I can easily drain the fluid tank but when I open the valve it does not seem to have much pressure. so either I have a major air bubble or a leak, perhaps the soft line is damaged? any thoughts would be a help. as for the pick up point I can adjust the clutch pedal but I don't think that is the main issue.
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Old 05-24-2012, 11:58 PM   #2
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Why are you on a track with a clutch you have to pump up!?

Check the inside fire-wall for fluid leaking. Check to see if there is a kink in the hard line.
Buy a SS braided line and get rid of the ~ curley PITA line.
Adjust a moderate amount on the peddle.
Buy a new Master.
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Old 05-25-2012, 12:32 AM   #3
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Make sure you have no leaks, then have a friend push and hold the clutch while you watch the slave. If the slave slowly retracts in, something is leaking/bad.

Clutch pedal engagement point can be adjusted by loosening a lock nut and spinning the clutch slave rod.

If you want to replace the clutch like and curly-Q as Miater suggested, we have them on our site below.
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Old 05-25-2012, 02:22 AM   #4
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because I'm dangerous! relax, it was a couple times just when the car gets started for the first time after sitting for a few weeks, so obviously something is wrong. but once it builds pressure it was fine, now with the new trans it seems worse.

so check the inside firewall for leaks, I assume this is the best way to diagnose a master leak?

is the rubber part of the clutch hard line something that fails? I was under the impression the SS line was more for convenience than to really fix a weak spot. I would rather not buy something that I don't need but this car needs to be tip top by next week and I have a fair amount of work. perhaps I'll just order the line

can someone describe the amount of fluid that comes out when you bleed the clutch? do you get some good flow at the start and then once the pressure is gone it slows im sure. when I pump the clutch a few times and open the bleed valve it dibbles out, this might be normal.

what about getting the car level in the air? when did it the passenger side only was in the air.
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Old 05-25-2012, 01:01 PM   #5
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Definitely have the car level, you may have had it tipped so that the highest point in the system wasn't the masters reservoir.
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Old 05-25-2012, 01:35 PM   #6
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I've recently had a similar experience after installing an ACT pp/disc and a lightened flywheel. Even after bleeding, the clutch dis-engagement point was very near the floor. Initially, I had to pump a few times to get the clutch to fully dis-engage. It does now dis-engage fully, but the release point of the pedal remains near the floor. It does not creep or bleed down like a leaking slave cyld or clutch master.
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Old 05-25-2012, 04:38 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtred View Post
I've recently had a similar experience after installing an ACT pp/disc and a lightened flywheel. Even after bleeding, the clutch dis-engagement point was very near the floor. Initially, I had to pump a few times to get the clutch to fully dis-engage. It does now dis-engage fully, but the release point of the pedal remains near the floor. It does not creep or bleed down like a leaking slave cyld or clutch master.
mmm I know the bleed down thing for brakes but if your foot is on the floor with the clutch where is it going to go? If i put my foot on the clutch say half way, and I have a bad master, you think the pedal will sink? I will give that a try and bleed again but perhaps it is an adjustment issue. I hope this is the case.
what troubleshooting have you done? how did you bleed? with a friend or what. I tried the fluid in a jar deal and the write up but it seemed the pressure would not overtake the fluid in the jar, not a good sign for the master imo. I'm thinking of making a pressure bleeder just so I know the air is out. have you tired to adjust the clutch pedal? I;m going to figure out what is going on this weekend. should be hanging out with friends and family but I need to get this sorted as well as finish other stuff.
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