Confused about combing parts for best bump steer with a lowered miata
02-19-2015, 11:18 PM
#63
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I wonder if there will be an issue with range of motion with using standard rod ends. for some reason the Miata tie rod arm is angled so the stud is not nominally 90 degrees from the tie rod. At full droop its right at 25 degrees off 90 actually. The rod ends in this picture don’t appear they have that much range of motion. Wouldn’t want to jack your car up or you will bend your tie rods. OEM tie rod ends have the angle built in to the shank.
Last edited by bbundy; 02-20-2015 at 12:18 AM.
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06-27-2017, 12:49 AM
#68
I measure a huge difference in bump steer with all NB parts.
With all NB Subframe NB knuckles, and LE tie rod ends I only get about 1/16” tow out from ride height to full bump. And 7/8” of total tow in at full shock extension. Meaning very little bump steer from around nominal ride height to full bump for lowered suspension setup and what little bump steer there is is in the right direction for stability.
I suspect NB with standard tie rod ends might tow in a bit at full bump and running the le tie rod ends is a little better for the suspension kinematics in bump if your running lowered and operating at lower ride heights. At stock ride heights standard tie rod ends would be better I think. I don’t think it is worth shimming the NB rack if you run the LE tie rod ends. NA knuckles on an NB subframe produces way too much bump steer correction and screws things up.
With all NB Subframe NB knuckles, and LE tie rod ends I only get about 1/16” tow out from ride height to full bump. And 7/8” of total tow in at full shock extension. Meaning very little bump steer from around nominal ride height to full bump for lowered suspension setup and what little bump steer there is is in the right direction for stability.
I suspect NB with standard tie rod ends might tow in a bit at full bump and running the le tie rod ends is a little better for the suspension kinematics in bump if your running lowered and operating at lower ride heights. At stock ride heights standard tie rod ends would be better I think. I don’t think it is worth shimming the NB rack if you run the LE tie rod ends. NA knuckles on an NB subframe produces way too much bump steer correction and screws things up.
It's amazing to have such little bumpsteer using all stock parts at aggressive ride heights. The 1/16" toe change from static to full bump being damn near perfect. What about the 7/8" change in full droop? Is that not really relevant to track performance?
Last edited by k24madness; 06-30-2017 at 11:55 AM.
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06-28-2017, 09:31 PM
#70
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I am glad this thread got revived to remind me it existed after having forgot about it and my having bought and installed LE tie rod ends this winter on the vague recollection it was supposed to be better for bump steer.
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07-14-2017, 12:45 AM
#71
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FWIW:
The combination of:
a) TSE 2.0 BBK (dynalite calipers, not the redonkulous ones)
b) AP Racing uber J hook rotors
c) LE tie rod ends
handled exceedingly well this weekend at my first track outing, but produced contact between the right tie rod end and the rotor at anything past half lock to the right. I have clearanced the tie rod end a bit and will test drive tomorrow.
The left side was tight but did not make contact.
I did have to clearance the singular brake ducts on both sides, and I suspect the stock brake dust shields would have had to be clearanced as well, as they (tie rod ends) come to within a mil or two of the rotor.
The combination of:
a) TSE 2.0 BBK (dynalite calipers, not the redonkulous ones)
b) AP Racing uber J hook rotors
c) LE tie rod ends
handled exceedingly well this weekend at my first track outing, but produced contact between the right tie rod end and the rotor at anything past half lock to the right. I have clearanced the tie rod end a bit and will test drive tomorrow.
The left side was tight but did not make contact.
I did have to clearance the singular brake ducts on both sides, and I suspect the stock brake dust shields would have had to be clearanced as well, as they (tie rod ends) come to within a mil or two of the rotor.
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01-04-2018, 10:43 AM
#75
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FWIW:
The combination of:
a) TSE 2.0 BBK (dynalite calipers, not the redonkulous ones)
b) AP Racing uber J hook rotors
c) LE tie rod ends
handled exceedingly well this weekend at my first track outing, but produced contact between the right tie rod end and the rotor at anything past half lock to the right. I have clearanced the tie rod end a bit and will test drive tomorrow.
The left side was tight but did not make contact.
I did have to clearance the singular brake ducts on both sides, and I suspect the stock brake dust shields would have had to be clearanced as well, as they (tie rod ends) come to within a mil or two of the rotor.
The combination of:
a) TSE 2.0 BBK (dynalite calipers, not the redonkulous ones)
b) AP Racing uber J hook rotors
c) LE tie rod ends
handled exceedingly well this weekend at my first track outing, but produced contact between the right tie rod end and the rotor at anything past half lock to the right. I have clearanced the tie rod end a bit and will test drive tomorrow.
The left side was tight but did not make contact.
I did have to clearance the singular brake ducts on both sides, and I suspect the stock brake dust shields would have had to be clearanced as well, as they (tie rod ends) come to within a mil or two of the rotor.
I'm getting ready to install LE tie rod ends with TSE v2 BBK on NA subframe with NA uprights. How much shaving do I need to do for safe clearance?
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01-05-2018, 01:15 AM
#76
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Depends on how much casting flash there is on your specific tie rod ends. Nobody can tell you what it will need. I typically don't need to grind at all, but occasionally I'll have to knock some flash off an errant tie rod end. It will be obvious when you go to assemble the parts.
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