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Old 02-19-2015, 09:49 PM   #61
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Garage Star is working on some heim-joint tie-rods. Looks like they could be adapted with some shims to make it an adjustable height piece.

Saw it on their Instagram a few days back.

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Last edited by Chooofoojoo; 02-19-2015 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 02-19-2015, 10:34 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chooofoojoo View Post
Garage Star is working on some heim-joint tie-rods. Looks like they could be adapted with some shims to make it an adjustable height piece.

Saw it on their Instagram a few days back. Let me see if I can link a picture.
I really dislike using rod ed tie rod ends unless you drill the taper out into a straight hol:m akeout::makeou t::ma keout:205.+
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Old 02-20-2015, 12:18 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chooofoojoo View Post
Garage Star is working on some heim-joint tie-rods. Looks like they could be adapted with some shims to make it an adjustable height piece.

Saw it on their Instagram a few days back.

I wonder if there will be an issue with range of motion with using standard rod ends. for some reason the Miata tie rod arm is angled so the stud is not nominally 90 degrees from the tie rod. At full droop its right at 25 degrees off 90 actually. The rod ends in this picture don’t appear they have that much range of motion. Wouldn’t want to jack your car up or you will bend your tie rods. OEM tie rod ends have the angle built in to the shank.

Last edited by bbundy; 02-20-2015 at 01:18 AM.
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Old 02-20-2015, 12:31 AM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leafy View Post
I really dislike using rod ed tie rod ends unless you drill the taper out into a straight hol:m akeout::makeou t::ma keout:205.+
lolwut
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Old 02-20-2015, 08:24 AM   #65
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Originally Posted by EO2K View Post
lolwut
Drunk GF kind of interrupted that post. I only needed to type the e on hole and I was done. Too many of the spacer + tapered spacer rod end ball joints have breaking problems with the bolt.
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Old 02-20-2015, 08:26 AM   #66
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That's a quality post. Your handle may get changed to Leaflora if you keep that up
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Old 02-20-2015, 10:50 AM   #67
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I don't think you have a girlfriend, enjoy your hand.
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Old 06-27-2017, 01:49 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by bbundy View Post
I measure a huge difference in bump steer with all NB parts.

With all NB Subframe NB knuckles, and LE tie rod ends I only get about 1/16” tow out from ride height to full bump. And 7/8” of total tow in at full shock extension. Meaning very little bump steer from around nominal ride height to full bump for lowered suspension setup and what little bump steer there is is in the right direction for stability.

I suspect NB with standard tie rod ends might tow in a bit at full bump and running the le tie rod ends is a little better for the suspension kinematics in bump if your running lowered and operating at lower ride heights. At stock ride heights standard tie rod ends would be better I think. I don’t think it is worth shimming the NB rack if you run the LE tie rod ends. NA knuckles on an NB subframe produces way too much bump steer correction and screws things up.
Bumping this old thread. So much win in the work Bob did here.

It's amazing to have such little bumpsteer using all stock parts at aggressive ride heights. The 1/16" toe change from static to full bump being damn near perfect. What about the 7/8" change in full droop? Is that not really relevant to track performance?

Last edited by k24madness; 06-30-2017 at 12:55 PM.
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Old 06-27-2017, 02:47 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by k24madness View Post
Bumping this old thread. So much win in the work Bob did here.

It's amazing to have such little bumpsteer using all stock parts at aggressive ride heights.
Awesomes. Now I feel so much better about my choice to run the LE ends on my NB. Good show boys, thanks for the feedback and keep up the good work
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Old 06-28-2017, 10:31 PM   #70
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I am glad this thread got revived to remind me it existed after having forgot about it and my having bought and installed LE tie rod ends this winter on the vague recollection it was supposed to be better for bump steer.
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Old 07-14-2017, 01:45 AM   #71
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FWIW:

The combination of:
a) TSE 2.0 BBK (dynalite calipers, not the redonkulous ones)
b) AP Racing uber J hook rotors
c) LE tie rod ends

handled exceedingly well this weekend at my first track outing, but produced contact between the right tie rod end and the rotor at anything past half lock to the right. I have clearanced the tie rod end a bit and will test drive tomorrow.

The left side was tight but did not make contact.

I did have to clearance the singular brake ducts on both sides, and I suspect the stock brake dust shields would have had to be clearanced as well, as they (tie rod ends) come to within a mil or two of the rotor.
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