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Control arm bottoming out on body

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Old Sep 23, 2016 | 03:29 PM
  #21  
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Ughhh. Come on guys.

Ride height does not affect this at all. I could be stance bro low and never have this issue, because I drove like a sissy.

No idea exactly when this happened. Hitting a big ledge at 60 feels like **** even hitting bumpstops.
Old Sep 24, 2016 | 01:23 AM
  #22  
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Old Sep 24, 2016 | 04:14 AM
  #23  
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Old Sep 24, 2016 | 12:12 PM
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Old Sep 25, 2016 | 09:07 PM
  #25  
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BTW

Comp weight?
Pinch weld heights?
Tire size and compound/model?
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Old Sep 25, 2016 | 09:23 PM
  #26  
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Weight: your guess is as good as mine. Probably ~2300 depending on when I **** last. Not a competition car.

4.25"f 4.5"r

225 rs3v2s
i know if at least 4-5 "oh **** that curb hurt" moments in the past season. Could have come from any of those. I hate ORP in that regard. Dropoffs are steep.
Old Sep 25, 2016 | 11:55 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by aidandj
Weight: your guess is as good as mine. Probably ~2300 depending on when I **** last. Not a competition car.

4.25"f 4.5"r

225 rs3v2s
i know if at least 4-5 "oh **** that curb hurt" moments in the past season. Could have come from any of those. I hate ORP in that regard. Dropoffs are steep.
All that looks good. Stop crashing into the things.
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Old Sep 26, 2016 | 12:00 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by emilio700
All that looks good. Stop crashing into the things.
I hear that a lot actually.
Old Sep 26, 2016 | 06:04 AM
  #29  
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We're gonna start calling you Danica.
Old Sep 26, 2016 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by rleete
We're gonna start calling you Danica.
OK, that's just mean. I was going to say Maldonado.

--Ian
Old Sep 26, 2016 | 03:51 PM
  #31  
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Control arm bottoming out on body-photo482.jpg

I have 5mm room between the RUCA and rear shock tower at the beginning of bumpstop engagement.

To get contact, the bumpstop has to compress to 19 from a starting length of 23mm.

Control arm bottoming out on body-photo892.jpg

I get RUCA contact before tire contact at the fender top.
Old Sep 26, 2016 | 03:53 PM
  #32  
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Just don't spin over any orange curbs at Laguna
Old Sep 26, 2016 | 04:11 PM
  #33  
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5mm sounds like not very much to compress a bumpstop. Anybody know what the "block" height is for those bumpstops?
Old Sep 26, 2016 | 05:08 PM
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As mentioned earlier, make sure your NB mount rear Xidas have two bushing beneath the shock mount.
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Old Sep 26, 2016 | 05:10 PM
  #35  
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I am on BCM. Not sure about afm.

Old Sep 26, 2016 | 05:17 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by aidandj
I am on BCM. Not sure about afm.
Caught that. I live in a world of search engines and forum threads. I mentioned that for the guy that does a google search, finds your thread (having NB mounts incorrectly installed) and needs an answer.

As you were..
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Old Sep 26, 2016 | 05:18 PM
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Mine does that. or I should say did. Now the chassis side is bent out of the way enough it doesn't. Also have the nice rub marks on the inner fender directly above the center of the tire indicating 100% use of bump travel.
Old Sep 26, 2016 | 05:20 PM
  #38  
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Interesting.

What would be a better option. Trim chassis? Or lower the shock mount.

Trimming the chassis would give me more travel, which according to the top of my fender well I really don't need. But lowering the shock mount without changing ride height would give me a net loss of travel.
Old Sep 26, 2016 | 06:58 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by aidandj
Interesting.

What would be a better option. Trim chassis? Or lower the shock mount.

Trimming the chassis would give me more travel, which according to the top of my fender well I really don't need. But lowering the shock mount without changing ride height would give me a net loss of travel.
looks to me you have just enough rubbing to say you have maximum usable bump travel. The A-arms are just kissing the frame. Its actually mostly just the lip on the sub frame. A hammer will clearance things right up.
Old Sep 26, 2016 | 06:59 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by bbundy
looks to me you have just enough rubbing to say you have maximum usable bump travel. The A-arms are just kissing the frame. Its actually mostly just the lip on the sub frame. A hammer will clearance things right up.
Now that is a tool I'm good with!



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