Did another track session, brakes not happy... (pics inside)
09-22-2008, 04:19 PM
#24
I was thinking of buying some Axis Ultimate pads. I had hem on my old WRX and liked them. Before I buy I want to investigate to see if there are better pads for the money. Arkmage didn't like them. When I purchased them I was told by Stop Tech that non aggressive driving would wear off the transfer layer on the rotors, and would need to be rebedded to regain optimal performance.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml
Do you think that this might have been Arkmage's issue? Have others had this problem?
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml
Do you think that this might have been Arkmage's issue? Have others had this problem?
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09-23-2008, 03:01 PM
#27
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Yeah, I'm worried about my stock pads at an upcoming Pacific Raceway (Seattle) HPDE. Did one HPDE before (PIR) and pads don't seem to bite as much as they used to (needs more pressure). I'll see what they're like after this one, but I heard that Maruha makes excellent streetable pads.
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09-28-2008, 10:35 AM
#28
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Oscar, my first track day was a month ago on NHMS (Loudon, NH), a not-very-brake-intensive track, and I faded my pads on the second lap. (More than that, I actually busted the seals on newly changed front calipers)
Fluid was Advance Auto DOT-3, pads were Bendix CQ (ceramics), which are great for the street and auto-x, but sucked tremendously on the track.
I tranny-braked for the remaning three sessions.
Asked my local SpecMiata builder (DWW motorsports), and the answer was "Hawk 9210, aka Blue".
Set of pads + rotors was $250. ATE Blue/Gold for about $12/quart. BMW guy was so shocked when I told him that it takes a whopping 1/2 quart to completely flush my system.
Get proper track pads. Just like a beanie won't pass Snell tests, street pads have no place on the track.
Fluid was Advance Auto DOT-3, pads were Bendix CQ (ceramics), which are great for the street and auto-x, but sucked tremendously on the track.
I tranny-braked for the remaning three sessions.
Asked my local SpecMiata builder (DWW motorsports), and the answer was "Hawk 9210, aka Blue".
Set of pads + rotors was $250. ATE Blue/Gold for about $12/quart. BMW guy was so shocked when I told him that it takes a whopping 1/2 quart to completely flush my system.
Get proper track pads. Just like a beanie won't pass Snell tests, street pads have no place on the track.
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09-30-2008, 01:11 AM
#30
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I'd cancel the Ferodo order. The 2500's are a street pad. I went through a set of 3000's which are their track pad in less than 2 hours driving time - I mean down to the backing plates. I don't know anyone that I track with that has been satisfied with the Ferodos.
Try some Carbotech XP8's for the fronts- they're made for the track but streetable. Put Carbotech Bobcat's on the back. For your power/speed level I think you'll be pretty satisfied with this combo. If not, step up to the Carbotech XP10's or Hawk HT10's.
I autox'd, tracked and daily drove on Bobcat rears w/same rotors for 2 years. Go ahead and get a set of the Bobcat's for front street pads to go with the rear pads. You'll love them.
JMHO
Oh yeah, you really need to rebuild your front calipers - they've been overheated. That would include inspecting/replacing if necessary the rubber boots that the slider pins go into. If you can't easily extract the slider pin or if it doesn't freely slide after greasing, it needs to be replaced.
Additionally, I'd check your front hubs. When I took the Ferodos down to the backing plates, I checked/repacked my front hubs. The grease in the hubs smelt burnt. Apparently they got pretty hot from the brakes.
Try some Carbotech XP8's for the fronts- they're made for the track but streetable. Put Carbotech Bobcat's on the back. For your power/speed level I think you'll be pretty satisfied with this combo. If not, step up to the Carbotech XP10's or Hawk HT10's.
I autox'd, tracked and daily drove on Bobcat rears w/same rotors for 2 years. Go ahead and get a set of the Bobcat's for front street pads to go with the rear pads. You'll love them.
JMHO
Oh yeah, you really need to rebuild your front calipers - they've been overheated. That would include inspecting/replacing if necessary the rubber boots that the slider pins go into. If you can't easily extract the slider pin or if it doesn't freely slide after greasing, it needs to be replaced.
Additionally, I'd check your front hubs. When I took the Ferodos down to the backing plates, I checked/repacked my front hubs. The grease in the hubs smelt burnt. Apparently they got pretty hot from the brakes.
Last edited by rrroadster; 09-30-2008 at 01:33 AM.
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11-27-2008, 10:02 AM
#31
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smallish update: the DS2500 are still on backorder, they seem to have some difficulties with the brakepad linings, which means they won't be produced for at least another month
I've asked Emilio to hook me up with some XP8s (fronts and rears). If FM gives a good deal on shipping the Wilwood proportioning valve, I should be good brake-wise
I've asked Emilio to hook me up with some XP8s (fronts and rears). If FM gives a good deal on shipping the Wilwood proportioning valve, I should be good brake-wise
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