concealer404

iTrader: (3)

I have an Ebay 1.6 flywheel on my car. Is fine.

I wouldn't necessarily say HELL YEAH OP BUY NOW, but it does work just fine for me.

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

This was a tame one. Often times they take off your feet and ankles and sometimes the brake lines if you are driving.

codrus

IMHO, clutch weight doesn't really affect drivability all that much. Most of the people who complain about severe drivability problems did something else dumb like running a puck clutch on the street.

I've had a 9.5 pound aluminum flywheel on my Miata (the Fidanza that FM used to rebrand) for 17 years now and never regretted it. I wouldn't buy a cheap no-name ebay one, though.

--Ian

Midtenn

iTrader: (15)

I've seen stripped out threads on an eBay aluminum flywheel that was properly torqued, so I would avoid one. I used a ~9lbs aluminum flywheel with SuperMiata sport clutch (1.8) for years without issue. I swapped to a FM 10.3 steel flywheel (wanted the ltw one for a track car) and I barely noticed a difference. A good budget clutch for naturally aspirated build is an Exedy OE replacement with an upgraded disc. I've used an Exedy PP and ACT 4 puck disc for a track clutch with no problems for years.

x_25

I did the FM1 with their 13lb flywheel. It's about perfect on a 1.6 street car. I get a lot of rattles on decel though, but I think the input for my transmission is going. It sounds like I still have a supercharger installed....

The 13lb free revs quicker and drops quicker, but not so much you can't granny it. Having driven a ton of stock miatas, and several 10lb flywheel ones, I think the 13 is about perfect.

atotalpro

Well after seeing those videos, I think I will skip the cheap flywheels and probably just stay stock. As for clutch though, I am leaning towards the FM1 because of the price and torque rating.

On the note of torque rating, I would like to have someone double check my logic here. From what I understand stock Miata rods exit the engine around 250 ft/lb wheel torque, and general Miata drivetrain loss is about 15%. If I want a clutch that will handle the max possible output of a stock Miata engine, then I should be looking for a clutch rated for at least: 250 *1.15 = 287.5 ft/lb.

Here is my comparison chart:

• ACT ZM2-HDSS: 245 ft/lb $397
• ACT ZM2-XTSS: 315 ft/lb $444
• Super Miata Organic Sprung SPM_CKBP_HS: 290 ft/lb $339 + $18 shipping = $357
• FM Level 1: 318 ft/lb: $399

As most everyone else has said, the FM1 really seems like the no brainer here.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Emilio has specifically stated that the SM clutches are rated at Wheel Torque.

However , last time I looked they were out of stock.

atotalpro

Oh really!?!? Well that changes a few things. I wish these manufacturers would better label their torque ratings. I guess I thought all clutch ratings were crank. So are the ACT ratings crank or wheel?

skylinecalvin

iTrader: (2)

Anybody know the difference in the FM1 vs FM2 clutch? I have about 300 miles on my FM1 clutch but In the next 1-2k miles, i'll hopefully be in the ~350whp range. Is the clutch disk the same w/ different pressure plate, vice versa, or are both completely different.

themonkeyman

I would bet most large manufacturers are quoting crank torque, which will be a higher number. Emilio is a rare bird who values real world application over an inflated number for marketing purposes.

atotalpro

https://www.flyinmiata.com/fm-level-...isc-94-05.html

The friction disk that they sell separately says that it is compatible with Level 1 and 2. Based on this I would assume it is the same disk and different pressure plate.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

BP clutch kits came in yesterday

huesmann

iTrader: (1)

There was a recent thread where someone's buddy adapted a bigger bore slave from Speedway to his Miata. Aftermarket, but not really plug n play; I think they had to hog out the mounting holes because they didn't quite match the Miata's spacing.