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I've done some searching but can't seem to find a definitive answer. I've got a 2000 on stock suspension for the time being. I needed to replace my LBJ's so I got the ELBJ's. Just got back from getting an alignment, and I'm not sure what my max camber should be at stock ride hight.
As the car sits, it's 14.25" in the front, and 13.75" rear hub to fender. I was told that all I could get on the front was about -0.85 camber to keep the caster at 5 deg. I was expecting to have a hard time keeping it less then -1.
Does dropping the ride hight effect camber that much, or is there something else going on that might be limiting my camber?
I've done some searching but can't seem to find a definitive answer. I've got a 2000 on stock suspension for the time being. I needed to replace my LBJ's so I got the ELBJ's. Just got back from getting an alignment, and I'm not sure what my max camber should be at stock ride hight.
As the car sits, it's 14.25" in the front, and 13.75" rear hub to fender. I was told that all I could get on the front was about -0.85 camber to keep the caster at 5 deg. I was expecting to have a hard time keeping it less then -1.
Does dropping the ride hight effect camber that much, or is there something else going on that might be limiting my camber?
1). Your ride height seems a little high.
2). The rear should be higher than the front.
Sure you have the suspension on right? Torqued bolts on the ground?
1). Your ride height seems a little high.
2). The rear should be higher than the front.
Sure you have the suspension on right? Torqued bolts on the ground?
I thought it seemed a little high. It's possible that the FUCA long bolt was tightened in droop. I'll have to re-tighten them under load tomorrow. I'll see if that makes a difference in ride hight and go from there.
As for the max camber, does that seem about normal for that ride hight?
I thought it seemed a little high. It's possible that the FUCA long bolt was tightened in droop. I'll have to re-tighten them under load tomorrow. I'll see if that makes a difference in ride hight and go from there.
As for the max camber, does that seem about normal for that ride hight?
Never had my Miata that high, but you should be able to get more camber than that stock. Especially if you have ELBJs.
Never had my Miata that high, but you should be able to get more camber than that stock. Especially if you have ELBJs.
Unfortunately I never checked my alignment before replacing the LBJ's, so i dont have any baseline from my car . I'm going to re-torque all the upper suspension bolts and check alignment again tomorrow if I can.
Post your pinch weld heights. Sorry for the dumb question but what exactly is the concern, that you have too much negative or not enough negative camber?
Yes, double A arm and multi link suspensions gain typically have a camber curve from max negative camber at full bump to max positive camber at full droop. So ride height must be decided upon and set before the alignment is begun.
I'll have to measure pinch hight tomorrow. I thought I would be able to get more negative camber, even at stock ride hight withe the ELBJ.
As before though, I may have some preload in the FUCA bushings lifting the nose a bit. I was just curious what a normal max negative camber to expect on stock suspension.
I'll have to measure pinch hight tomorrow. I thought I would be able to get more negative camber, even at stock ride hight withe the ELBJ.
As before though, I may have some preload in the FUCA bushings lifting the nose a bit. I was just curious what a normal max negative camber to expect on stock suspension.
Have a look at the cam bolts on the LCA, if neither (or at least one of them) is close to max camber setting they have left some camber on the table even at that ride height.
Here's the thing, when I installed the ELBJ's, ihad a ton of negative camber and toe in. I eyeball aligned it to drive to the shop, and had about -0.75 camber and 6 deg caster when we put it on the rack.
I'm sure there is way more camber in it, but I'm not sure f that is athe the sacrifice of caster.
It was my dad who did the alignment, who has been a mechanic for over 30 years, so I tend to trust his judgement.
TL;DR: does anyone have any pics or ideas on how the cams are generally set to get more caster? We were screwing with it for a bit and it was loosing caster every time we tried to get more - camber
I usually set the caster bolt to max caster (all the way out), just visually, then only align camber and toe in the front.
You want me to move this to your own thread? Might get a few more responses.
New thread might be a good idea. No need to clutter this one, I'm always hesitant to start new threads haha.
As for the caster bolt, I assume your talking about the rear eccentric and max pushing the FLCA as far away from the subframe as possible? I apologize in advance for a possibility stupid question.
New thread might be a good idea. No need to clutter this one, I'm always hesitant to start new threads haha.
As for the caster bolt, I assume your talking about the rear eccentric and max pushing the FLCA as far away from the subframe as possible? I apologize in advance for a possibility stupid question.
New thread time. This particular forum is not a good place to threadjack, which you are doing
Some more info in regards to how the eccentrics are currently set (now with pictures!). To me, it looks like it is possible to get way more neg camber from this, but after 20 min's of arguing with my dad, I gave up. I guess I'm looking for confirmation that I should be able to get more negative camber and keep my caster at 5 - 6 degrees. You have my permission to call my dad an idiot if that's the case, I'm just not sure.
Lol yeah he's an idiot, the rear eccentrics should be all the way out and they are all the way in. Fronts will be a balance but should be most of the way out.... And yours are no where close.
Think your dad is playing father knows best and aligning it for maximum tread wear as if a normal person would be driving it.
That is exactly what I thought. We had a long discussion while doing this one. He insists that even -1 deg. camber will "cup the front tires all to **** in no time". Love the guy, but he can be a bit stubborn. Must be where I get it from
Put rear eccentrics all the way out, and then one side will max out in camber before the other. Lock that side all the way out, then match the other side.
Also I brought in all your posts from the ELBJ thread, since it's not a ball joint issue, just daddy issues.
ELBJ Alignment on Stock Suspension [NB]
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New thread started 
