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Old 08-19-2012, 09:43 PM   #1
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Default Experiences w/ Trackspeed 11" BBK and Corado? (pedal to floor)

I just got done putting an 11" Corado rotored Trackspeed BBK with Wilwood calipers on my 92 that has the stock master and booster.

I have bled the calipers at each of the four valves on both calipers and when I turn the car on the pedal goes to the floor easily. The brakes are working somewhat and will stop the car but I am wondering if these calipers require a bigger master, I still have air in the system, or the calipers were rebuilt improperly and have some small leak that I have not yet detected.

The car had some brake trouble before but I thought it was just siezed up factory calipers, now I am curious if there is any reason why the pedal travel would need to be adjusted, if that is even possible?
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Old 08-19-2012, 10:21 PM   #2
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Air in the system. You don't bleed at all four ports per caliper, just the upper two.
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Old 08-19-2012, 10:21 PM   #3
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Nope, you should be able to bolt these on to a otherwise stock system and be fine. I have.

Ignore the lower bleeder valves. All the air will travel to the top, the other bleeders are there if the caliper is mounted the other way, as those will then become the top bleeders.
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Old 08-19-2012, 10:24 PM   #4
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Did you let the master cylinder run dry?
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Old 08-19-2012, 10:56 PM   #5
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Ok, that makes a lot of sense. No, I don't think I did run it dry, but I am going to try bleeding the thing all over. Guess I will have to check back.

Different question: Can this prop valve go close to the turbo heat shield? I have a BEGI heat shield on there and the prop valve looks like it will basically touch it if I instal it normally, how do other people deal with this?

[edit] Greg are you on the Houston Miata Club site?
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Old 08-19-2012, 11:08 PM   #6
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Yes, it can be close. The nut on the back touched my greddy heat shield, I never had a problem.
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Old 08-19-2012, 11:10 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curly View Post
Yes, it can be close. The nut on the back touched my greddy heat shield, I never had a problem.
Ok cool, thank you; I am just worried about transfering the heat more and breaking stuff.
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Old 08-20-2012, 12:06 AM   #8
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Yeah, I'm on the Houston site, I just don't visit often enough. I spend so much of my time lurking on here.
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Old 08-20-2012, 01:09 AM   #9
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Reverse bleed. It's the best way to refill the system after the brake lines go dry. It also lets you skip bench bleeding the master. I also run around tapping calipers and hardlines with a hammer when I bleed.
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Old 08-22-2012, 08:29 AM   #10
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And bleed the rears while you've got your bleeding buddy there again.
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Old 09-09-2012, 10:54 PM   #11
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Did a little more work this weekend because I have been out of town/busy:
-Bled through a quart of brake fluid, no bubbles came out at all...
-Checked slack on rear pads, there was none, fully tightened and backed off 1/4 turn.
-Pulled (still fully plumbed) master away from booster and checked that plunger starts moving after ~1/8" pedal travel (I can't tell if there is an adjustment there or only inside the car at the plunger?)
-Made sure everything was tight and not leaking anywhere.

Finally decided to really look at what was happening with pedal travel, took a shoe off, put that foot underneath the pedal and pushed the pedal down with my other foot to find that the pedal is not actually touching the floor but is closer than it was before the replaced master and the swap to Willwoods? Did a couple of slow-speed stops in the parking lot and decided to take it out for a real drive. The brakes work; skid the fronts way too easily actually and it is obvious that I need to use the proportioning valve and complete this upgrade path with the larger rear rotors and good pads. The pedal still travels VERY far though and from the time the brakes first touch to rock solid pedal is softer feeling, substantially so, than my 01 with Sport brakes. Thoughts?
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Old 09-09-2012, 11:35 PM   #12
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You let the master cylinder run dry when you installed the brakes. Pull the master cylinder, bench bleed it, and reinstall.
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:23 AM   #13
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I am actually planning on buying your pressure bleeder anyway for ease of operation, but (please forgive the novice) I thought the bench bleed was to get the flow going in the first place? Even after running all that fluid through it, you think that there is air in the master? How does that work? The pressure bleeder/filler will allow me to skip that process right?
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Old 09-10-2012, 12:31 AM   #14
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Crap; it's not in stock. Do you know when you'll have more of these?

Motive Pressure Bleeder with Mazda Miata cap***

Update or remove


$70.00


Sub-Total: $70.00

Products marked with *** dont exist in desired quantity in our stock.
You can buy them anyway and check the quantity we have in stock for immediate deliver in the checkout process.
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Old 09-10-2012, 02:27 AM   #15
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Should have them back in stock this week. I can also have one dropshipped straight to you.

I can't say whether it will allow you to skip bench bleeding - I wouldn't expect it to. I am pretty religious about bench bleeding masters and our cars have the best pedal feel of any Miata I've ever driven.
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Old 09-10-2012, 02:44 AM   #16
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I will try to learn how to do this then. I called a brake shop yesterday and asked if this would be included if I paid them to do it since I am aparently screwing up and they said they just crack each connector to get flow going while the master is installed and then perform normal bleed... I don't understand how, if it is flowing, where the air is stuck?
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Old 09-10-2012, 03:39 AM   #17
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It's just not possible to bleed air from the master cylinder through the standard bleeders on the calipers. You have to bleed the master first, and then bleed the entire system second.
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Old 09-12-2012, 06:22 PM   #18
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I believe the mechanic meant to crack the hard lines open at the master, just like you were cracking open a bleeder. Pump the pedal, crack the line open for a split second and close. In that time some air should escape. Rinse, Repeat. I did this recently on my Saturn so that I didn't need to completely remove the master and bench bleed. Worked fine.
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Old 09-16-2012, 06:57 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbgael View Post
I believe the mechanic meant to crack the hard lines open at the master, just like you were cracking open a bleeder. Pump the pedal, crack the line open for a split second and close. In that time some air should escape. Rinse, Repeat. I did this recently on my Saturn so that I didn't need to completely remove the master and bench bleed. Worked fine.
Just did the same procedure the other day and also worked fine.
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