Is that too feminist for u

 

back at ya-
Help out those who care about an inexpensive transmission upgrade. Fill in the costs below:

transmission:
transmission bell housing adapter/fix from the machinist:
transmission tail/rear support OR ppf adapter:
clutch disc that works with Miata pp/flywheel:
pilot bearing:
throwout and fork solution:
slave solution:
driveshaft:
shifter solution:

I think that should cover the swap...?

Looks like you can go to car-part.com and pickup a TII or FD trans for ~$500 delivered. I just drove down to Mazmart and picked my 60k FD trans up for $385.

 

Got the transmission for 200 from a buddy of mine he gave me the throwout bearing he had bought new for it and the fork.
So far research says an nc clutch disk will fit, u can use miata pressure plate and flywheel.
Pilot bearing has to be spaced out just like the t2 swap but not sure how much, will know when i get it back and test fit it.
Driveshaft will be made by v8roadsters instead of the one they give with their rear end kit.
No ppf will be needed will make a cross member mount made out of stainless all u need is a bar about 2 feet max a 1 1/2 inch large.
U can use stock miata slave cylinder but as far as I remember will have to be mounted on the other side of the block? I have to double check that info.
As far as machinist, i bought a 5 speed for 150 took it to him with a spare 1.8 block that was assembled with flywheel. He will be taking the miata bellhousing and fit it on the fd. Advised me it wouldn't cost more than 400$

 

bless your heart. so young, so optimistic.
you gon learn

 

Tell me what i am doing wrong and enlighten me to do it right

 

Made a mistake the location for the slave will remain the same

 

Somewhere between 'most things' and 'everything.'

 

You're not going to use a "cheap" stock NC clutch if you're making half the power you hope. A good disk will cost at least $150 new (with your connections). I think you'll find the opposite issue with the pilot bearing- the FD trans input shaft is longer the the TII. Don't forget to check the spline engagement on the clutch disk too. There's some critical measurements to consider in all this clutch/transmission stuff. That drive shaft is going to be at least $200. If you go with a trans support as planned, then you will have to do something for the diff/pinion. The slave actually mounts to the "bell housing", not the block. And they're on opposite sides, but since you're using the Miata "bell housing" it will be on the correct side. Which of course creates a new problem: what do with an FD throw out fork/bearing and a Miata slave. You'll have to figure out how to make the FD fork move like it did in the stock application using the Miata slave. More difficult than you think since clutch springs don't move much. There's probably some science figuring that out. Or luck. Curious to see the "bell housing" solution with the 5spd since it doesn't actually have a bell, but a front section with bearings and other good stuff. There's nothing overly simple or cheap about this.

 

he gon learn
or become a statistic like so many others

 

I m not using a stock nc clutch i m going to be using an act 6 puck disc or what they recommend for my power level, it uses similar spline engagements as the fd.
Machinist job to make sure the fd tranny fits my block and flywheel at a 100%. He will cut out the front section of the 5 speed and weld it on the fd bellhousing i m sure u understood what i meant.
I did say the slave will stay in the right position, and i think i can use the miata fork after some slight modifications to fit the application if i cant use the fd fork. Driveshaft price is already covered with the v8roadsters kit all i need is to send them measurements when i get everything bolted on.
I will try to get pics of it as soon as i get it back from the machinist, he promised me it will be ready this week

 

Oh super. That'll work great then.

 

So a miata flywheel and pressure plate will fit it no problem that is where u can save money, it is essentially close to a t2 swap

 

I know when i look for things that allow me to bolt parts together that transmit power, i like to look for similar splines. Doesn't have to be the same. Similar is good.

 

using terms like "similar" and "close" when talking about mm tolerances of parts that have zero room for error

 

You guys new what i meant, i wish there is an edit button and say "same" instead of similar.
I speak 4 languages so excuse me if my english vocab is a bit weak

 

Oh **** NOW i'm impressed.

 

Cool care less what u think lol

 

How much less could you care?

 

Also in for how much less.

Having an edit button available has been a long running complaint here on this foru..... wait.

 

Could*