First I was like this...
 

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/att...0-dsc_0064.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/att...0-dsc_0070.jpg

Took forever to get them at 12.5"F and 12.75"R



I drove home 25 miles; l then I was like this :td:


https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/att...0-dsc_0072.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/att...0-dsc_0075.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/att...0-dsc_0077.jpg

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/att...6-dsc_0078.jpg


I started feeling like I was hitting the bumps on some large potholes and dips in the road....looks like it's actually coil bind and the left rear spring settled like crazy compared to the right....FML

The fronts were fine.

Of course the 8" 250 lb/in springs are $79 each vs. $38.77 each

BAN!!!

Looks like you need to be on clubroadster.

Damn, your car looks as low as mine. Except I can't adjust my ride height (for now).

now who is laughing at my 10 inch 250 lb springs?

is your front higher than your rear? front is still around 12.5"...that left rear is probably under 12" starting at 12.75"


really it seems my options are: get new longer springs -$60-140, get FCM spring risers -$88, go back to the NA mounts & lose travel but increase height then sell ISCs +80, or slammage ...

Mine is pretty close to level.

So when you switching back to the NA mounts? Since we all know since you can make moeny you will do it.

I have 7" 250lbs springs in the rear.

And yeah, I have coil bind over big bumps too.


Buy these for $60 each and, as thanks for my saving you $30, you can post again to tell me if they solve the problem.
H&R Race Springs 8" x 2.5" x 250lbs Spring ProParts USA

so you must be like hella slammed...are you on the iscracing tophats?

better springs at better price (thank to my friend y8s): www.pitstopusa.com - Detail


the worst part of this is that i wanted a better ride quality from my 550/300...turns out the insulators were preventing the bumps from traveling all the wya up and i was missing out on about 1.5" of shock travel. I left the 550s on and put the 250s in the rear and drove around and it was so improved. i think if i had just kept the 550/300 combo and installed them correctly I wouldn't have even be in this situation.

ordering new springs as we speak.

(2) 250# lb. 7" QA1s for sale - $55 shipped.
(2) 391# lb. 8" STANCE springs for sale - $55 shipped.

now check this stupid shit out. im so fail.

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/att...1&d=1269035673

https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/att...1&d=1269035673

for some reason i thought those insulators were hollow and the bump would travel through them...dunno why i assumed that...look how much travel is lost.

250 lb springs?

Must ride like a Cadillac.

So you are going to run 400(7") /250(8") now? I can't believe there would be such a difference in the settling of the sides.

The isolator plus those little internal bottoming shock protector things must have been terrible! With just the weight of the car you must have been on the bumpstops in the rear.

You gained a shit-ton of travel with those isc hats! Probably like 2 1/2"(at least)!:eek4:

Lower than I want to be, that's for sure. Not ISC hats... oem NB hats. Using fatcat spring isolators (because the ebay isolators were way too bulky and cheesy. FCM's isolators weren't cheap, but IMO they're worth it.

I'll wait to order taller springs until your report back as to success or failure at regaining travel with a particular length. :-D

Something must be wrong with that spring to sink so low. Confused. BTW I've seen people use cutting boards (the plastic ones) as spring spacers. It sounds a little ghetto, but does hold up.

fak, I must be a ricer. I think my springs settled a lot over the winter.

Nobody's laughing at your big 10 inch!

2.5 inch diameter. 250 lb/in stiff!

(yours at the right price)

I think it's where/how it's parked looking again, but i do think it settled more. They were slightly used springs, but I've always had an issue with the drive side being .25" lower.

Yeah I had like no travel, I kinda wish I kept the 550/300 combo and had just known how dumb I was, I had never hit the bumps before until I fit those 7" 300s and it didn't make sense since I was actually sitting higher than with my 218# FM springs.

It did drive very nice, other than the bind...

wut.

Seriously, whata tha fucka is goinz on here? What rear springs do you have? They look like they say 7-250, but you are ordering qa1 7" 250lb, won't you have the same problem? And did you really put a big rubber chonky thing on one shock but not both? Either way, from both of the spring pics it looks like coil bind is imminent.

esplain preas.

I believe this is a before/after comparison... He had all that other shiz on there and removed it to find...TRAVEL!:idea:
He linked an 8" 250lb spring in the rear.

Braineak,
The 400/250 should be a very good setup for the street with performance in mind. As long as your shocks a valved well and you work out the travel/ bind issue, it will me a mean canyon setup. Lots of grip on crappy surfaces.

I had 7" 550/300 QA1 springs. I had those stupid plastic things installed. For some reason I thought the bump would travel through them, much like the FCM 1/2" spring spacer. I just wasn't thinking.

I rode like shit. So I got 400/250 7" QA1 springs in a massive trade. And put them in yesterday along with NB and ISC racing tophats.

Once removing the shocks, I found that I'm stupid and those insulators were probably why it rode like shit since I had like 1" of rear travel. I then took pictures comparing the difference in travel with and without them.

Then after installing the new 400/250 springs and setting it up for 12.5" F and and 12.75" rear, as seen in the first pic, the rears decided to settle a little and the left rear seems to be coil binding on some heavy bumps.

So I just purchased the Suspension Spring Specialists 8" 250 lb. springs to replace the 7" ones.

get it?

Well I liked the 550/300 setup, I just didn't like the harshness. I did drive on 550/250 after installing the rears and it was already completely better ride so those insulators were ultimately to blame.

The 400/250 drove just as good as I remember the FM springs I had prior, perfectly comfortable on the street yet very competent when I push it. Once I get the new 8" springs in the rear I think I'll finally be done touching that shit for a while.

So the 7" 250 QA1s that you had didn't really hold your car up due to coilbind but only on one side, but would have worked well otherwise. I'm guessing with my RL crap I'm not going to be happy with the 7" 250 QA1s either. Ricelands are on their way, just glad I didn't order the rear springs just yet. I'll have to keep researching.

Stop ordering cheap ass springs. Ground control ftmfw!
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Granted they were previously used springs, but when I went out and looked again part of my wheel was resting on the curb which was raised so it was compressing the spring on that side a little more. Regardless, there's nothing wrong with QA1 springs, the problem is the length I needed in the rear; both sides will bind as is.

I seriously had those springs on my car for two days....looks like QA1s aren't the cheap quality spring we thought they were...sucks balls.

The drivers side rear will always be lower due to the increased weight compared to the pass side. Quit playing around with making the adjustments (threads the same) go get some scales and set your cross weight.

springs dont tend to sag. there may be some slight inconsistency between individual springs from the same batch, but mostly they will last nearly forever and not settle over time.

like i said, my driver side is always .25" lower than the passenger. it was this way when I had FM springs, the 550/300s after the suspension settled and now these.

could you please post pictures of comparison with nb/isc top hats?

no, because i took none :)

Driver side settled .25" lower than passenger the pictures I took above, my tire was up on the curb so it wasnt sitting level. I think one main issue is all the weight in my trunk. I have an amp, sub, jack and two stands, torque wrench, metric socket set, few other tools. I do nothing but add weight to my miata, albeit I think I've come to the determination that the 7" 250# is borderline. They compress too much under load and the coils are too close together, but I do have the collars cranked up a bit so it's making it worse.

Without taking measurements to see how much they do compress under load, I'm not sure even with NA tophats theyd be any better, you'd still need to sit low and hope the shock hits before the coils.

Then again, the GC 375/250 (6" front/7" rear) kit that most people run does not have this issue...so who knows what my deal is, gotz to be deez isc tophats.

Here's how it looks:

http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...edding+016.jpg

http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...edding+017.jpg

Fatten the wife up and make her ride with you.

I think when i get my ricelands, i am going to go with a 250# 8 inch, should that solve this problem?

This thread reminds me that I have FCM spacers to sell.

She weights 108 lbs...It's going to take a lot of chocolate.

I'm really not sure, it's probably safer, the CG springs are 7" 250# so I'm unsure why I'm having this issue. It could be a little bit of the weight in my trunk, the ISC tophats with too much travel. When I get back from GA I need to measure how much the springs compress and then pull the weight out of my trunk and see how it compares. I also have some preload on the springs to keep the ride height taller, so that makes the issue worse. Had the springs have no preload before the weight of the car compresses them, it'll probably be fine...This is probably also why FM doesn't reccommend different tophats even with their own springs...

Swap the springs left to right so that it's even with you in the car. Lol
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eh, or i install my 8" springs when they come and adjust them evenly once they settle unevenly again.

I'm interested in those

Doing the math based on what I think the coil thicknesses are. I come up with a sprung weight of 560lbs to that corner.

That's compressing the 7" spring to 4.75"

That leaves me with 1.25" of travel left before bind (assuming 3.5" of the 7" is the coils themselves) 4.75 - 3.5 = 1.25"

The 8" springs, all things being equal, will compress to 5.75" and jack the body height up 1.25" or so. That leaves me with 2.25" of travel before bind. I'll more than likely have to lower the collars in order to decrease the body back to 12.75" so I'll decrease the amount of travel it takes until I hit the bumps.

Will that be enough? dunnozzzzzzz. Am I really gaining travel with the ISC racing tophats? Should I have ordered 9" springs?

Honestly it seems that the isc tophats have been really screwing up the ride height. They seem fine if you want to CR your car. Do you have other tophats you can throw on with the 7"s and see what they do for ya?

regardless of the tophats I'm still compressing the springs too much. My car is a heavy GT cruiser.

I could throw the stock tophats back on, but 1. I threw them away, 2. I sold the 7" springs already

8" springs installed, no more coil binding as far as I can tell, only time it felt like I might have was going over a speed bump fast...

otherwise I couldn't find any faults when driving to work and literally trying to hit ever bump and dip.

http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...2/DSC_0002.JPG

http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...2/DSC_0003.JPG

I'll lower the rear a little back to 12.75" this weekend once they have settled.

Hmm yeah good for you... where the fuck are my springs?!!?

They went in the mail this morning, like I said, on my way to work at 10:30am, after I was done swapping them at 10:00am...thanks for being understanding :bigtu: Will probably show up Saturday.

you must have some shitty luck or something. i ran my QA1 350/250 7" spring setup for almost 2 years. they never looked like that. even when i had my trunk full of tools and a tire that didn't fit up frt. on my way to a trackday, i wasn't close to coil bind at all. i was at 12.25" all around with nb tophats. worked awesome.

Wow, whats goin on this place ppl cant take a joke anymore. I know what you said, I was jk-ing/ethuggin

:makeout:

you think i wasn't being sarcastic? maybe i should have used :jerkit:

Dunno what the deal is, under compression the springs were only 4.25" & 4.50" long.

When I removed the shit out of my trunk the driver side went from 11.5" to 11.75" while the passenger side stayed at 11.75". I think the issue is really those tophats...

Yeah that or some remark involving "skull-fucking" then I wouldve known is all good.

Brainesack, Buffock01, STFU.

Hey Web-bi-69 :fawk:

Ahhhh. I just love being home.

how the brain of a master works.

http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...2/DSC_0016.JPG

^I see a box. I think pizza. Hunger, I have.

That was almost Haiku, nice try fag.

Been a couple weeks- did the 8" springs cure the coil bind issue?

Maybe not quite...he still thinks he's power-bottoming out or coil binding.

I so regret buying this springs now. So I'm pretty much having the same issues Brain was having. The car's ride height sags about .25 on the driver side. I've tried decreasing the thread length on the passenger in order to even out but even after a full inch drop in thread the issue persists. Now I am at a crossroad with suspension. I'm in between just some what coming up with some cash and get real suspension or get a set of 9" 300lb springs. However, I am concerned that the QA1 may have the same issues even with longer springs.

So I'm reviving the thread because is practically the same issue. Thanks

nvm