Ok if it was an air leak, then I dont think replacing the clutch with out opening the hydraulics would fix the issue. Yet it does.

 

+1, and even better when user "Dunning Kruger Effect" posted in this thread.

 

That's not true, pushing the slave cylinder in is very likely to push air back out at some point.

Have you tried bleeding the slave?

 

The slave has been bled repeatedly. Both traditionally and with a power bleeder.

 

Any other thoughts? The transmission gets back from being inspected today. I will update with the results.

 

Im just throwing this out there, but I would check and make sure the clutch fork is riding on the pivot ball correctly.

 

The Infinity dealer checked this exact thing since its so common on their cars. It was where it needed to be and was firming mounted.

 

I have the exact problem with mine. One day it would not go into gear, adjusted rod and it went in barely and got it home checked and bleed master and slave. No leaks. then started slipping after a drive in traffic. Took transmission out thinking I would find a problem and everything looked new. Pilot, throw out bearing felt and looked new, disc was about new with 13k miles on it. Im stumped. Emailed fm to see what they say.

 

Bumping this thread. The OP"s issues are exactly what I am facing right now. I could have written this exact post because of how exactly the same my problem is.

Has anyone been able to figure out the solution? My slave extends 5/8" but will NOT disengage. I have replaced the entire hydraulic system pretty much (slave/master/flex line) and rebled about 3 bottles of clutch fluid worth. No matter how I adjust the clutch rod or anything else, I cannot get it to disengage.

This problem also started quite suddenly. It was working perfect fine then one day the clutch just stopped disengaging as well over a 1 hour period until it wouldn't disengage at all. I have been emailing FM but they haven't been able to figure out the issue either.

The clutch/sandwich plate/throwout bearing/pilot bearing all have <2,000 miles on them. What the heck is going on??

 

Pull off the shift fork boot and looked inside of the bell housing. If you have a probe camera that might help.

 

There is currently a **** show with FM's clutches for a while now. Competition are no help either they want you to send it back for inspection.
What happened to two of my friends in the last couple of months (new clutches) is that the pressure plate does not sit flush with the clutch surface and causing this engagement issue.

 

I have been helping AndyNB with this issue on his car. After we tried everything that the OP of this thread tried, we gave up and Andy pulled the trans (again). The clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel all look good to the eye. How do we determine if the issue is the clutch surface/pressure plate? There is no visible misalignment.

I also contacted FM and they were not helpful so far. They also take over a week to respond to any email or follow up email.

Is the solution to just buy a new (non-FM) clutch and pressure plate? The fact that Andy's car has 5/8" of movement at the slave (measured by me, can provide video) makes me think the issue is the clutch itself and not another part of the system. For reference, my NA, which has a stage 2 Happy Meal kit, has 1/2" of movement at the slave and disengages without issue.

 

I've had two cars with these clutches that had similar problems. The fact that the adjustment procedure instructions includes "possibly" needing to modify the stopper tells me that these clutches are not for these cars. I've only ever had 3 clutch problems in my entire life that didn't involve wear after many many thousands of miles. Two were FM1s that wouldn't disengage completely, and the other was an ACT disc that was too thick. (Wouldn't disengage completely either)

 

Well that sucks, but at least we have a likely culprit. I really thought I was losing it for a while there. I guess the next step is some research on the best alternative. I am really surprised that this is the first I am hearing about these FM clutch issues.

 

they have been talked about for years. It seems very hit or miss. I tend to use the SPM street organic in all my cars now. I have been happy with ACT in the past, but they are more expensive then alternatives and hold less torque.

 

I just took a FM stage 2 out of my car that i had constant issues with adjustment. Followed all their steps and all the BS and it never gave me a fix. I took it apart yesterday and the brand new throw out bearing had almost dug all the way through the pressure plate fingers. To the point where they are literally barely holding on. All new bearings but the clutch was indeed used when i installed it. Won't be spending money on FM stuff ever again as this is far from the first time their junk has let me down.

 

I have had similar experiences with my FM2 clutch.

 

So far two of my customers are on a latest batch of spm clutches with good results. Haven't tested the torque rating yet though.

 

If you used a bog standard throwout on a FM2 I'm not surprised it wore it's way through. FM2 require a different throwout bearing that has a larger contact face. If you call FM and try to order this specific bearing they'll probably send you a standard one, did to me at least.

If you want more clamp with the same pedal effort then it comes from stretching the work out over a longer time. That's why a FM clutch requires the hydraulics to be perfect, because it uses all it can from the stock gear as far as stroke. Getting mad at it for that and saying it's not designed for the car just shows a solid lack of understanding, IMO. No different than the guy with the feals the other day, wondering why his short bodies won't hit a factory ride height with "no preload."

 

Let me get this straight: Expressing displeasure at the idea that a clutch requires adjustment beyond that which the application in question was designed for.... shows a solid lack of understanding?

It's way different than the FEALs example for many reasons. The first of which being that nobody suggested to that dude that radius his wheelwells like an 80s silhouette racer to make his coilovers work.