We've had this flywheel for around 18 months, I think. Possibly more. This is the first question about SFI certification we've had. My contact at the manufacturer is away this week, I'll see if getting that cert is the same as the clutch.

We just sold our last SFI-certified Fidanza yesterday!

 

I think Keith is referring to my car. I drove the car home from Colorado (over 1,300 miles) and then sporadically for a week or two before the snow started to fly, so I don't have definitive impressions. I can tell you that the pedal effort is a lot less than the ACT clutch on my brother's FMII. Take-up isn't as seamless as my previous Kevlar clutch (sourced from FM a loooong time ago), but it was improving with city miles. I hope once completely broken in, it will make for a pleasant driving experience.

I do know that it will hold between 291 and 345 lb-ft (uncorrected vs. corrected, to avoid that potential squabble) without slipping.

 

Actually, I'd forgotten about your car, but I think you're right, you did get one of these. I was thinking of our own 1995. Your car has enough horsepower to work it pretty hard. Clutch ratings are at the flywheel, so it'll be higher than your wheel numbers.

Those old Kevlar clutches were nice, if you were lucky enough to get one of the ones that worked. Very high failure rate out of the box.

 

Placed my order this afternoon for a happy meal with the heavier flywheel and the level 2 clutch. Keith, thanks for the information on this.

 

Have you gotten this yet and do you like it?
My Spec stage 1 is slipping and I need to upgrade.

 

I was only able to get part of it and I haven't installed it yet. The pressure plate and flywheel were available, but the clutch disc was on back order so I settled for an ACT disc. It's not the complete FM package, but I've been told it will hold just as much. Should have it installed in the next week or so.

 

Thanks, I probably will go this route as well.

 

so lets say my car made 280wtq on your dyno, and possibly higher...can I get away with running your clutch? I could potentially put down 300wtq on a dynojet with this motor, and I don't want to have to change this thing out in a few weeks or a couple months. The good thing about the metal clutch is that you know its going to hold the torque, even if it bucks and drives like ****.

 

That should not be a problem, they're rated for 353 at the flywheel.

 

Uh-oh, were the old ACT clutch ratings as the wheels or the flywheel.

I might be ordering another clutch before the turbo....

 

Flywheel.

 

The Tq. ratings are always at the flywheel.
I am very interested in this Clutch. (thanks Scott)

 

Thanks Keith for promt and timely service in getting me this clutch. I installed it and it is very streetable. The directions on adjusting clutch linkage was spot on, it was needed.
The clutch is very firm over my Spec 1 that I had been running. I also bought the FM adjustable bushings and had no problem getting them in. The car feels very different with these bushings.


I have an autocross coming up in a couple of weeks and that will give me more diffinitive feedback.

I also liked the follow up phone calls by your company asking if everything was shipped and did I have any questions, was there anything else FM could do, etc.

Pleasure buying from you guys.

 

Thanks for the note. Let me know what you think after the autocross!

 

My Spec StgII (you drove it) I thought was about exactly stock pedal feel... maybe even a little lighter. I believe it used a stock Exedy PP and kevlar disc... the StgI probably also a stock PP.

I wouldn't mind something a little more firm feeling, and I'm liking the reports on the new FM clutches more and more.

 

Hi Sam,
The FM clutch is definitly firmer than your clutch. I got the car home tonight from All Aspects and took it around my neighborhood with the hoosiers on. The clutch pedal is very firm, and you can feel it get firmer the more you press on the clutch.
I need to drive it with street tires for a few days to get used to the feel, but so far I like.

 

I have a series of annoying questions. Let me preface these questions with my history of clutch failures:

• broken diaphram spring fingers in my OE 1.6 clutch
• broken drive finger that lathe-cut the trans case in my VW causing the trans to break the case, spin forward into the radiator and hoses, break both drive shafts, and finally "fall out" so I could drive over the medacine ball sized transmission boulder on the highway (lol)
• spring machined the champfer retainers, popping out (Exedy OEM 1.6 replacement)
• broken rivets on the friction material (VW Clutchnet mess)
• ACT that engaged on the floor with the adjuster all the way in on my brother-in-law's Miata

Ok, on to the questions. You don't have to research these, just tell me what you know:

• Is the diaphram spring heat treated?
• Is this diaphram spring a different thickness, embossed, or a bend/modified version of the FM1 plate to increase pressure? (thicker stock I hope)
• Are the drive straps flat or bent so they don't bind with actuation?
• Are the hub splines broached/cut or are the teeth cast? (I assume that if it's still an ACT disc, they are broached )
• Is the pressure plate balanced?
• Tell me about the rivets and how strong they are
• How much does the clutch, pressure plate, and disc weigh all together?

I put this clutch in Matt Andrew's old car so I know that it will hold power without a doubt (dear god that car was fast), but I'm more concerned with longevity. I need to inspec the Spec S3 clutch in my car so I'm preparing for the worst, I also hate this 40-lb behemoth and tired of "nursing" downshifts.

Thanks for the help.

 

Give me a bit of time to confirm answers with the manufacturer and I'll get back to you.

 

Thanks, I don't need an answer for every last one of them, a few answers will put my concerns to bed. I appologize for being the worst kind of customer, but I drive this car to and from the track so extreme psychotic reliability is required. I may pull the clutch out and find that nothing is wrong and not send you any cash in the near future.

Thanks.

 

Here's what I have, straight from the designer and manufacturer.

All diaphragms are heat treated
The disc is thicker and stronger. (note from Keith - I believe we're using the Level 2 disc on both of our clutches now)
Straps are made to accommodate the rivet position of the unit
Straps bind on backlash caused by RPM differentiation, performance enthusiast frequently don’t rev match on shifting (up and down), high inconsistency (3-5000 RPM differentiation) will cause the straps to buckle and bind.
The hub splines are broached.
The pressure plate is balanced.

Tell me about the rivets and how strong they are

"They are rivets, don’t ask me to write a book"

As for total weight, I'm out of the office right now (heading home from Thunderhill) and I'll try to get that measurement soon.