Personally, I agree with you. A couple of years ago I ordered a set for myself just out of curiosity. The build quality was ok, however regardless of what vehicle model they have listed in the title, they're all universal fit, and include various spacers, rubber donuts, etc., which you're supposed to stack together to make it fit. That part seemed really cheezy to me.

I think I paid around $800 for my current shock absorbers. They're Bilstein HDs that I sent to FCM for custom re-valving. Worth every penny.

I agree with both of you...and made a perch that fits over my shocks and has a retainer ring that holds the threaded collar tightly. That and QA1 springs makes those eBay kits full of win.

This, and/or this:

I have the full-boat FCM kit, it was like $1600, but worth it. Add a couple hundred +/- for the RB front bar and 949 end links, forget the rear bar if you want to be able to put down any power coming out of turns.

I won't be running 275's. Most likely 225's on all fours. AutoX will be just a fun thing for me. The suspension setup is definatley going to be geared more towards track use. That's the main thing I'm building the car for. AutoX locally sucks anyways and I just go out to it to have some fun. I use someone elses car for Ntl Tour events.

So If I were to get Koni Race, and the ground control set up... how are the springs that you get with it? Anyone know the lb rating? Would it be an idea to get some more QA1 springs since they are cheap?

They slide right on, I don't know whats ghetto about that? I ran the full ebay kit on my MSM in NASA TT. Also Fatcatmotorsports does a great revalve using 70's shock technology, which is fine because the shock is 70's tech. Stewart develpment will provide a superior revalve using modern shims and valves. The guys name is Bernie and he knows his shit.

I would go with koni race fronts and koni sport rears and ground controls with 650 front and 375 rears. Then a front sway bar and remove the rear. ISC mounts would be good, or just DIY some NB tophats.

I run a similar setup, but with softer springs since my car weighs less.

The QA1 springs don't come in 6" length, which is what I would go with. I would just try to pick up some used Eibach ERS (sccaforums classifieds)

This is a decent idea, but I have a question, thinking out loud.

Does anyone think that the droop travel difference between the Race and Sports could create a suspension travel problem when the suspension is unloaded?

What do you figure that setup would cost?

alot of good info here, ill be looking into some of the setups you people posted

Sure if you rally

my GC/revalved bilsteins feel great. And are actually pretty mild on the street

I'm either doing this or buying Xida.

And you will either eat caviar or eat alpo afterward.

yes i will eat my caviar with the money left over from buying my properly selected spring rates perfectly matched to the desired valving to support the spring rates at a fraction of the cost.:giggle:

I thought you just put on tein flex coilovers. What's up?

You specify them when you order. Order 6" 700lb fronts and 7" 450lb rears. Use your OEM rear sway bar and a tubular Racing Beat front bar, the biggest one you can find. Start searching for an MSM rear bar to replace your OE bar. ISC mounts + RACEs are bad news since the car will sit at full droop at static height. With stock NA tophats I have enough bump travel to rub the front tires on the tops of the wheelwells. I'd stick with NA mounts since all the NB/FM/ISC mounts do is trade bump for droop. RACEs have short bodies which already do the same thing. If I want anything on my shocks, it's more droop travel.

IMO, 700/450 RACEs are the best budget coilover on the market. $1400 brand new, tough to find used. Proven fast on the track. This is why it's tough to meet a $1000 budget, even though that's the number everyone picks - by the time you've added sways, endlinks, and a coilover sleeve/spring combo to that $1k budget, you're left with like $400 for shocks.

RACE + 700/450GC + sways + endlinks + ES bushings + alignment = ~$2k. When you're ready to step up, sell the shocks/springs for ~$1100 and order whatever flavor of XIDA your wallet will endure.

Why do you go with the tubular over the solid? the general consensus so far from my research is to go with the solid. What are you thoughts?

Where did you purchase your RACE's? I've had a hard time tracking them down. If I wanted to go with a cheaper shock to start out with, anything else you could recommend?

So stock tophats all around?

Tubular is the same rate but lighter, IIRC. You can get the RACEs from Goodwin or send me a PM and I should be able to get them for you as well. There's really not a cheaper shock that will control those rates. I've never had an issue with a lack of bump travel, only a lack of droop, so I'd stick with the NA hats, yeah.

tubular is stiffer. but if your running aftermarket rear bar, you might need the tubular to keep the f/r balance. with the solid i removed my rear beacuse it was too tail happy.

norcaldrift -> Zankoku is making is own line of COILOVERS!

Better than Teins atleast...

He did say something about hillclimb... and its an issue I had on stock suspension before going to KW's on another car. Just something to consider. (car was frequently driven on dirt... hard)