Will do after my next race. What pushed me over the edge was killing a $150 AIM oil pressure sensor due to vibration. I was not going to do that twice. The other big reason was not being able to see out my rear view mirror when it hit a certain RPM. It's hard enough watching your mirrors without objects being so blurry. I could not tell what kind of car they were most times.

 

I'm definitely starting to lean in this direction.

 

Bump- Just an update to say I replaced the diff. bushings with the ES units. I followed the "no need to remove diff" method and it worked like a charm. The air hammer made it super easy. The one thing we did differently was to remove the rubber from the "caps" under the mounts, we used an air chisel to scrape the rubber off, followed with a quick hit of a grinder. Was super easy and fast, no need to burn anything.

Impression- Noticeable difference right away when engaging the clutch. Much less clutch/drive line shudder*. NVH is minimal- the Beatrush PPF braces was more noticeable when installed. Would recommend. When we got all the bracing and exhaust off, I could actually see where the OE bushings had been moving withing the carrier as displayed by a smooth/shiny ring seen at the bottom of the bushing...kinda like the area next to the rear sway bar by the mounts where you can tell there is some side to side movement. Now that I removed and replace the exhaust, it's rubbing somewhere, no biggie though.

*I suspect the engine mounts I changed back in Jan are already toast as a side-effect of the bad diff. bushings. Will replace soon. I'll be looking into the information posted that the 90-93 engine mounts are stiffer than any of the others. I'd like to go with the stiffest rubber ( ) or the AWR mounts (go big or go home if using poly, right?)

 

I have the softest AWR mounts. Mine arent broken in yet, but so far the car is very loud inside. The inside the car noise going from stock exhaust to turbo + 3" exhaust didnt really change because the inside the car noise level is so high from the mounts.

 

I've got the mazda competition mounts in my car. VERY, very happy with them. Noticably stiffer than oem, but not enough that it's vibrating my car apart.

 

I have the Mazda Competition mounts in my car, the ES poly in the rear.

The Mazda Comp mounts suck. Not stiff enough.

Thanks for reminding me about the Beatrush brace. I need to get one of those.

 

See- I REALLY wonder if there is a hard(ish...ist?) rubber bushing that can be used as opposed to the poly in the AWR mounts and if it would make a difference and will hold up.

 

Keep in mind that Leafy is rocking a standard rattletrap NA, while we're part of the NB Master Race.

I'd expect an NA with MazdaComp mounts to rattle more and be louder than an NB with AWRs. Let alone AWRs on an NA.

 

Emilio- What about comparing NA to MazComp or MazSpeed?

 

They're gonna be limper than the MazComps. The MazComps are the ONLY Mazda-branded mounts that you should even be considering.

 

My car is a rattletrap driving down dirt roads. On a paved road, with mazdacomp motor moutns and brand new OEM diff mounts this **** is butter. No buzzing from the chassis, just the exhaust which isn't even that loud anymore.

 

Hmmm do you go offroading in your NA often? :P

 

LOL, only every single time I drive it. I live down a 3/4 mile of dirt road.

 

NAY1-39-040 same thing

 

I'm not following? MazdaComp (aka Mazdaspeed) and Mazdaspeed Miata (MSM) are different. Well, I was implying between those two, the comparison to the 'harder' NA mount.

I figure, I just seek the knowledge to know the difference and how they may compare.

 

I have never had a brand new set of MSM mounts in my hand to compare durometer so I don't know. Different part number though.

NB mount - softest. I forget the actual durometer measurement.
NA mount 55 durometer
Comp mount 70 durometer

My guess is the MSM mount is somewhere between the NA and Comp mount

 

I've got the comp mounts. Like them fine.

I am not part of the master race though.

 

Thanks Emilio.

After reading reviews, and looking around, I'm going to give the ILMotorsports mounts a shot. Besides, I can get them locally from RSpeed.

 

...and after getting my engine mounts out, I see that I indeed used MC and not MSM like I had been thinking. I also found that the MCs are notably stiffer than the ILs. So I left the MCs in. Did some other tinkering on the car too...car is feeling much better to drive again.

 

Should you drill and install zerk on the rear hub carrier upper bushing?
The material looks thicker than suspension arms. I researched and no one mentions about it.