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Old 05-15-2010, 08:48 PM   #1
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Default Help, Am I in too deep

My tires rub after my alignment. My ride height is lower than it was before the suspension change. What is the best solution to fix this problem?

EDIT: It may just be the liners. Is everyone here running with or without the fender liners?

11.5F/11.75R

I got the FM alignment:

FM Recommended

Front
Caster: 5.0 degrees
Camber: 1.0 degrees negative
Toe: 1/16" total (1/32" per side)
Rear
Camber: 1.5 degrees negative
Toe: 1/16" total (1/32" per side)

Was my alignment choice stupid? I was planning on running RS3 225/45/15, but no way it will work at this point. I did read in a thread by hustler that Tannr's alignment was:

Camber : 2.7 f / 3 r
Caster: 6*
Toe: 0
"Ride height is ~11.5/11.75. I do want some more front camber next time i go back."

We have ~ the same ride height, so i would think that the tires would clear.

I can handle another $60 alignment if it fixes my problem, but I want to make sure it will.

What are my options? alignment, file the lip in the wheel well, fender roll, flares ????

I don't want the f***ing tires to rub anymore. Should a new alignment be in my future????

Last edited by miatauser884; 05-15-2010 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 05-16-2010, 12:40 AM   #2
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Sav answered my question indirectly. I finally found what I was looking https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...t=fender+liner
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Old 05-20-2010, 07:54 PM   #3
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I removed my liners and rolled my front fenders but still rub on hard right turns. I have no idea how to figure it out. There are no noticeable markings of where said rub is happening.

around 12.25"f, 12.25"r
500/300 springs
1" fm front bar
stock rear bar
15x8 6UL +36
Falken Azenis 205/50/15

I'm thinking my alignment bolts must need replacing and it's out of whack.

Is your problem with rub fixed yet?
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Old 05-20-2010, 07:55 PM   #4
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That depends. Is she normally a screamer?
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Old 05-20-2010, 08:25 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparetire View Post
That depends. Is she normally a screamer?
Keep dreaming....
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Old 05-20-2010, 08:51 PM   #6
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What size tires and wheels are you currently running? I did a ghetto, self roll of the fenders, and pushed up the liner tabs, and cured my rubbing 90%. I only rub under nearly full lock turns, more so going over a bump or dip. I'm at the same ride height, maybe a tiny bit lower, and running 6.5x15'' wheels with 205/50/15 tires. I doubt you can go much larger as low as you are without doing something else about it (either raise it, or do some more major rolling/pulling, or flares).
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:28 AM   #7
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What size tires and wheels are you currently running? I did a ghetto, self roll of the fenders, and pushed up the liner tabs, and cured my rubbing 90%. I only rub under nearly full lock turns, more so going over a bump or dip. I'm at the same ride height, maybe a tiny bit lower, and running 6.5x15'' wheels with 205/50/15 tires. I doubt you can go much larger as low as you are without doing something else about it (either raise it, or do some more major rolling/pulling, or flares).
I did the same. rubs over hard bump during tight turn. 7" wheel, with 205/50/15 I want to fix it so I can run 225/45/15 RS3 Shaike has spacers that you can put on without removing suspension. They reduce the suspension travel.

Will longer springs of the same spring rate raise the ride height? (I'ma suspension noob)
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:34 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by djp0623 View Post
I did the same. rubs over hard bump during tight turn. 7" wheel, with 205/50/15 I want to fix it so I can run 225/45/15 RS3 Shaike has spacers that you can put on without removing suspension. They reduce the suspension travel.

Will longer springs of the same spring rate raise the ride height? (I'ma suspension noob)
Longer springs yes. It may be in your build thread, but I'm lazy, so what is your current suspension setup? I didn't know Shaike had spacers that didn't necessitate removal, but if he does, then that would be what I would do. But, to know what will not rub with the 225's, you would need them on first, then worry about it. I'm sure someone has a better answer.
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:41 AM   #9
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:44 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NA6C-Guy View Post
Longer springs yes. It may be in your build thread, but I'm lazy, so what is your current suspension setup? I didn't know Shaike had spacers that didn't necessitate removal, but if he does, then that would be what I would do. But, to know what will not rub with the 225's, you would need them on first, then worry about it. I'm sure someone has a better answer.
FM springs, FCM shock mounts and bumpstops, prothane bushings (everywhere), Stewart development revalved bisteins. 7" wheel, 205/50/15

The spacers would be a 30 dollar fix. $5 per spacer, and Shaike recommended 3 per side. 3mm each. I think I will have the fenders rolled first.

How much would you estimate a fender roll would cost if I took it to a body shop? That video makes it look easy though.
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:50 AM   #11
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And it was easy. The only scary part was that grinder weel so close to my finger. It cut through the metal like butter, Imagine human flesh. But I took my time and I still have all my fingers



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Old 05-21-2010, 01:02 AM   #12
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shouldn't be more than $50 to have them rolled. You can rent the roller tool and diy too.

The way luiml73 did it is pretty cool too if you are down to cut them. I would think its a good idea to paint or at least clear coat those cuts to prevent rust though.
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Old 05-21-2010, 01:08 AM   #13
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yes paint
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Old 05-21-2010, 01:09 AM   #14
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Why paint, AutoZone has some bling *** chrome trim that would fit right on there.
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Old 05-21-2010, 10:09 AM   #15
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Nice, $50 bucks is worth it for me to have someone else do it, but with as easy as you made it look, Luiml, not much more. Thanks for the extra pics to show what you used for cutting. I was thinking jig saw. Cutoff wheel is much better, and cheap to rent.
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Old 05-21-2010, 10:31 AM   #16
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One thing you can see in the vid is that the closer the cuts, the easier to bend. So I say first mark some lines I'd say 1-1/2" to 2" apart then start cutting. As you can see, i didn't do that LOL! I just started cutting away, but it was still pretty easy.
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:16 AM   #17
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There is absolutely no need to cut the fender if you use a roller. I have one available for rent if anyone wants to use it.
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:03 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pschmidt View Post
There is absolutely no need to cut the fender if you use a roller. I have one available for rent if anyone wants to use it.
I appreciate the offer, but to rent, plus ship, return ship, etc It will probably be easier for me to pay someone local to do it. Thanks though. Good offer for people closer to you.
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Old 05-21-2010, 12:08 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by djp0623 View Post
I appreciate the offer, but to rent, plus ship, return ship, etc It will probably be easier for me to pay someone local to do it. Thanks though. Good offer for people closer to you.
Its around 20 each way to ship my roller out, so around 100 total once its all said and done.
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Old 05-21-2010, 11:57 PM   #20
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Quote:
I would think its a good idea to paint or at least clear coat those cuts to prevent rust though.
Yeah, something simply to prvent the rust to start forming... even the littleist bit could start the rust to form.. best to do it right now, rather then risk haveing it rust and then have to redo alot bigger spot later on down the road
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