the 3X Clutchnet has two diaphragms :)

I installed a Carbonetics clutch after my Exide coun't keep up with 15 psi of boost any longer. In the beginning it engaged very fast, had to push the pedal to the floor and it would engage close to immediately. It needed bedding in, nowadays it engages like a stock one would. Took a couple of days of driving (normal driving, no burn-outs or whatever).

Rock solid clutch! Even driving in slow traffic and stop-start-stop driving in traffic jams is close to normal.

I dont know what "two" adjustments you refer to. I know only the one where you can spin the rod. That changes the engagement point and it changes the freeplay at the top.

Very interesting. I had no idea the height of the pedal can be regulated with the clutch switch.

clutch
 

i use the flying miata act 6 puck clutch on my 94 diy turbo :jerkit:

. High clamp force, lower friction with the SS(organic street disc) in the ZM2-XTSS is rated at 307 ft-lbs.

I have this clutch set up and all my cheap turbo miata friends hate me for it because its so easy to drive and it last and last with alot of abuse. i have had it for more than 45k with out a single problem. i have drag raced it well over 200 times and i have abused the hell out of it and it still feels new. it is real easy to drive in traffic and even my sister was able to drive it and she weighs 105 pounds. the pedal is a bit stiffer but after you drive for a week its like butter its feels normal and smooth. i guess your left leg just gets that much stronger. i cant drive a stock miata clutch it feels so weak to me now. the only down side is the price from $460 to $530 but i would pay the high price one time compared to my freinds that end up buying a cheap one every 15K-25K miles. but ACT is the best and all my friends now will save a bit more money to get ACT. my clutch is still good i wonder how much longer it will last.

I'll throw an update in here. I have 250 miles on my ZM1-XTMM. I love it. The clutch pedal has become much softer and the engagement point has moved up a little bit. Don't be afraid of the xtreme kit, it really isn't bad after it breaks in.

On a side note my trans really needed a flush. Buttery smooth shifting now. Feels weird to roll up to a light and 1st just drops into place.

Ha, mine goes in first with no effort if I'm rolling less than 20. Good transmission.

That is how mine is now. I keep thinking something is wrong.

So many people put clutches in and never adjust the travel.
This is a must. Good info.

I vote for ACT that is what i had i was very happy with it.

I had a friend with that EXACT absolutely the same situation...drove that thing..HOLY HELL!!!! Id rather drive an auto than his integra, it was the worst fucking clutch ive ever felt

Was it a solid puck or a sprung puck?

I drove a miata with an ACT HD 4-puck unsprung disc this weekend. Was easier than my ACT HD with a clutchnet 6-puck sprung disc. I assume it's the friction material as I have a clutchnet disc, however the same PP.

I went back in and readjusted my engagement rod length, it's at a typical height now, still grabs but it's a lot easier to deal with.

Honestly, my dad drives this car a lot. If he can do it without issues or complaining, anyone can.

Braineack,

How did your F1 clutch perform? Did you run one of their flywheels too?

what makes you think I'd ever ran a F1 clutch?

the F1 Clutch is an oem rated PP with the same exact disc I'm using. I've driven a miata with one, felt just like any 6-puck, with a soft pedal.

I interpreted your post about driving an F1 clutch as having one.

Interested in impressions of F1 stuff.

May try their flywheel but havent used or seen any of their stuff.

So what was the final outcome of the Clutchnet stuff? Poor tolerances in their product caused problems or are some people successfully running them?

It's random. Some people had zero issues, others didn't have that luck.

it seems the PP design is to blame, I'm still using the disc I bought with an ACT PP.

Finally replaced my Spec Stage 2+ with a new ACT ZM2-XTSS and took it to VIR for 3 days; South Course on Sat & Sun, Full Course on Mon.

The Spec clutch had gotten really hot at some point. The PP and Flywheel both showed discoloration from extreme heat, though no slippage had ever been noticed. There was an area on VIR North course where you turn right uphill on to the crossover that you would hear the motor rpm creap up like a clutch slip, but I always wrote it off as the LSD working though I never felt the diff working (like the back end swimming). It did it with both a 1.6 Viscous LSD and an RX7 disc stack LSD at the same point on the same track when you were really on the edge. This clutch falls into the std clamping force/high friction disc category. The disc is not made with pad material all the way around, but rather has seperate pads spaced around the disc on both sides in a puck like fashion. Starting out in 1st gear had always been a bit tricky - it was pretty grabby and if you didn't go ahead and commit the gas it would stall out. Reverse had judder. After inspecting after 2+ seasons of use, I think it was underclamped for my 200 RWHP track car.

After I had about 250 miles on the Spec clutch for break in, I drove it to VIR. When I stopped on the way for gas, there was quite a bit of light smoke coming from the car. It wasn't oil or brakes. I supposed it was just part of the clutch break in. I'm betting this is where the discoloration came from.

The ACT ZM2-XTSS is a totally different animal from the Spec clutch. The pedal stiffness was only slightly stiffer than the Spec or a stock clutch, engagement point didn't seem any different. Engagement into first was much smoother and easier with no judder in reverse. This clutch is totally smooth and I like using it better.

I threw the ACT clutch into the car the weekend before going to the track with minimal testing in the street - virtually no break in. The car was trailered to the track and then dogged on for 3 days. No smoking ever.

I've always had friends tell me to get nothing but an ACT. I can now see why based on my experience with these two clutches.

So what do you guys think I should do.

Not dick around and get an ACT or risk the cheaper Clutchnet?

I need to swap my clutch but I whole bunch of expenses fell on my plate, and I need to spend wisely.

YES,spend the money and buy the ACT clutch.

You have read enough experiences on here about other clutches to know that the ACT clutch is the one to get.

Don't fuck around,spend the extra money,do it right the first time around.

If you decide to be a cheap ass and buy a clutchnet or some other brand of inferior clutch and a month later down the road you run into problems,don't bother posting about it,cause we don't want to hear about it.

get ACT so far its been the best money i ever spend. my friend has the cheap f1 stage 3 what a piece of crap. slips and burns all the time. i have my act 3 years now and its the best ever.

I'm trying to figure if the clutchnet is even cheaper...

Clutch net was only $10 cheaper than my ACT.

Alright, guess I wont dick around and get a ACT for peace of mind.

Heres a good question.

What method is best to get enough room to work under the car. Jack stands or ramps?

If I get ramps the back of the car stays on the ground, if I use my jackstands im gonna need a new jack.

you need jack stands. The tranny is taller than you think, especially if you put it on a jack or something to get it out.

I think I read in the m.net instructions you need at least 18". I got mine up that high and had just enough room to lift it a bit and pull it out. With a jack under it there was no way it would have come out.

jack that bitch up as high as you can, get some long ass extensions, and a swivel bit, an an impact wrench...and a tranny jack ;). don't forget to drain the tranny.

Speaking of jacking.

Can I use the K member as a jack point?

yes. I usually park the front on 2x4s. jack up the rear from the dif and put two jack stands on the rear. then jack the front up on the k-member and put two more up front. go back to the rear and raise it, go back to the front and raise it.

The higher the better. I used the ramps under the front wheels for insurance, but hte wheels were not even close to them.

I have a decent writeup on m.net. If you want, I'll get it for you. It's pretty stress free if you follow my instructions.

Oh yeah, and go with ACT.

I think you should post a link to it. Hopefully it will be found in future searches :bigtu:

Try to beat our record....with the car jacked up, and everything in place (meaning fluids and exhaust and driveshaft.) It took us (us being two guys) approximately 2 hours from start to finish (still on jack stands, all fluids and parts replaced). This was of course after the 3rd time I had to drop it in a week...

You don't need to drain tranny. Seal the back of the trans with a rubber glove and duct tape.

+1. Rubber glove and a zip tie is easy and works great.

The last time my transmission was out we used a lift. 45 minutes in the air and we were done. Helps having a friend who is a Mazda Tech. I think the book time on R&R transmission/clutch is over 4 hours.

zomg brilliant....maybe i'll beat my own record next time. next time i do a clutch im going to stick with a heavy pp and street disc.

2 hours doing a transmission on the ground is a pretty amazing feat. I'll likely be pulling mine this winter to fix a leaking rear seal :( I doubt I'll do it in 2 hours, I'm budgeting two weeks.

HA. Its my first time and i'll be doing most of it myself. Paul will stop by to help me get it off the car and back on.

Link me please.

I have read through many write ups, but it could never hurt to read another. You may have something someone else missed.

It'll still leak out of the speedo gear hole. If it's what came in it from the factory you should want to go ahead and change it while youre there.

not if you keep the gear in place and unscrew the cable...

Well im 491 dollars poorer.

Why the hell is this friggin thing so expensive. Is it made of gold?

On another topic.

Should I stick with Mobil 1 syn gear oil in the trans or go scavenge for some Redline.

Yup.

Can anyone recommend a cheap torque wrench?

Preferably something I can get locally, like at Sears.

Has anyone gone with the mazdaspeed miata clutch?

not here, FM liked them enough to design their new clutch after them...that's another option.

Mark,do you need a new clutch already?

no, not yet, but i had heard before that this was a good alternative. not sure what its rated at. pedal feel is great.

I "heard" the OEM mazdaspeed clutch is rated for 260-280 hp.

If the mazdaspeed clutch costs as much or close to the price of a ACT clutch,get the ACT clutch.

.....btw,put your location of where you are from newb.

quality of ACT >> better pedal feel of mazdaspeed?

You can get the ACT HD which has the same pedal feel as stock.

At what point does the engine rock forward, when the trans comes off or when the ppf and driveshaft are removed?

To be honest, i dont remember seeing transmission mounts.

Is it safe to use the oil pan to hold the engine from rocking forward?

I didn't use anything to support the engine.

Thanks dude.

would installing a clutch while running higher hp affect the break-in?

debating on getting clutch/fw before or after boost, considering my clutch has just over 8k mi on it

there are no transmission mounts. it rocks forward when you take the transmission out. you can (and should) use the oil pan as a place to jack the engine up.

Thought it was the weight.

Ill put the factory jack under it to hold it.

---

Heres a dumb question.

Is the transmission secured with studs, or bolts?

Why I ask, once unbolted does it just fall off or does it remain in place until you tug on it?

Kinda dont want surprises so I'm asking otherwise obvious questions.

It can't drop straight down if that is what you mean because the trans input shaft is still in the clutch disk. You have to pull the trans towards the rear of the car to 'unstab' the input shaft from clutch disk before the trans can drop.