Help me pick a clutch?
Hey Guys,
I need to replace my dying clutch; I've been researching and reading for a few days and here are my choices:
The car isn't a dedicated track car, but it's not my daily driver. I drive it to autox events and occasional weekend morning drives. Would love a friendlier clutch for crazy LA traffic (aka I'm a puss).
xoxo, -one lane |
FM1 is the only clutch you need to buy. They hold more power then the ACT, are cheaper, and have better pedal feel. I have not had a chance to try the new 949 clutches so I can't really comment on them, but knowing you are already close to their torque limit would scare me.
|
Don't forget, the clutches are rated for torque at the crank, and you likely have listed the torqur at the wheels for your car.
|
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1380990)
FM1 is the only clutch you need to buy. They hold more power then the ACT, are cheaper, and have better pedal feel. I have not had a chance to try the new 949 clutches so I can't really comment on them, but knowing you are already close to their torque limit would scare me.
Originally Posted by x_25
(Post 1381006)
Don't forget, the clutches are rated for torque at the crank, and you likely have listed the torqur at the wheels for your car.
|
My FM2 clutch with a 10.2lb flywheel isn't even too bad on the streets, comparatively. I'd definitely go with the FM1. 949 kit isn't enough.
|
Originally Posted by .one lane
(Post 1381010)
I'm leaning towards the FM setup because I've never had a lightened flywheel before and the next step up in 949's 1.6 kits is sold out. Did you run the 10lb or 13lb flywheel with the FM1 kit?
|
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1381020)
I only buy the clutches and use the stock flywheel. I don't personally like lightweight flywheels.
|
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1381020)
I only buy the clutches and use the stock flywheel. I don't personally like lightweight flywheels.
Side note: I've read that the stock fw might be helpful when really pushing a bunch of power because of the higher inertia and less jolting transfer of momentum. |
I love light flywheels. 1.6l extreme with organic disk and a 7.8 lb 1.6l 949 or Fidanza flywheel feels like butter to me in a CSP car I'm building. also note the 1.6l clutch is a few pounds lighter and lower MOI than a 1.8l. it would not bother me at all on the street driven daily.
In my beast with over 300 ft-lbs Im running the same 1.6l XT with a 4 puck. It also has served me well and It is also not terrible to modulate. The clutch works fine but transmissions Hate that much torque though. |
Originally Posted by ridethecliche
(Post 1381034)
Why does fm recommend the lighter flywheel for turbos?
Originally Posted by ridethecliche
(Post 1381034)
Side note: I've read that the stock fw might be helpful when really pushing a bunch of power because of the higher inertia and less jolting transfer of momentum.
|
One of the best mods to my Miata was removing half the weight from the flywheel. Track only, DD or whatever, lightweight FW is awesome. Stock FW lovers are pussies and should have their boost taken away..... fags
|
Well that escalated quickly...
|
Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
(Post 1381066)
One of the best mods to my Miata was removing half the weight from the flywheel. Track only, DD or whatever, lightweight FW is awesome. Stock FW lovers are pussies and should have their boost taken away..... fags
|
Originally Posted by .one lane
(Post 1381010)
I'm leaning towards the FM setup because I've never had a lightened flywheel before and the next step up in 949's 1.6 kits is sold out. Did you run the 10lb or 13lb flywheel with the FM1 kit?
I didn't even consider that. That would put me around 250 tq at the crank (assuming 15% loss). Thanks for the heads up. |
FM2 with 10lb FM Flywheel, no ragrets.
|
I've driven 949's original 1.6 organic and the new 1.6 hybrid. They're both extremely streetable, wouldn't hesitate to put either in a daily driver. That being said, I can't seem to find the hybrid version on 949's site anymore.
|
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1381194)
Real MEN only boost 1.8 cars. :vash2:
|
Originally Posted by hi_im_sean
(Post 1381066)
fags
Originally Posted by shuiend
(Post 1381194)
Real MEN
Went with the FM1 w/ 10lb FW thanks, everyone! |
Originally Posted by bbundy
(Post 1381053)
I love light flywheels. 1.6l extreme with organic disk and a 7.8 lb 1.6l 949 or Fidanza flywheel feels like butter to me in a CSP car I'm building. also note the 1.6l clutch is a few pounds lighter and lower MOI than a 1.8l. it would not bother me at all on the street driven daily.
In my beast with over 300 ft-lbs Im running the same 1.6l XT with a 4 puck. It also has served me well and It is also not terrible to modulate. The clutch works fine but transmissions Hate that much torque though. |
Since theses aren't turbine engines, it should be noted that the mass of flywheels are more important to transmission longevity as the engine output is increased.
http://www.epi-eng.com/images/Engine/ET-X-4%20Cyl.gif Lighter flywheels will be faster at the track up until the transmission reaches its limit. If we had stronger transmissions available we could go lighter on the flywheels with relative impunity. We need better transmission options. If your car makes a dyno measured 300wtq, that's the mean 0% on the chart. Your peak tq pulses are a wee bit higher. |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:55 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands