How to speedy-bleed the clutch (or brakes?)
 

Take the fluid reservoir lid off and drill a 1mm hole through it. Clean any burrs and chips. Loosen bleeding screw at slave cylinder and route a hose from it to a collecting jar. Fill reservoir and reinstall lid.

Block the original reservoir vent hole (at the back) by pressing on it with your finger while shooting compressed air (just ~0.5bar/7psi) into the hole you just drilled until level goes down to ~1/3 (Just press the pistol against the hole, perfect seal is not needed). Refill and repeat if desired. Close bleeding screw and refill reservoir. Squirt a drop of hot glue into the hole you drilled if you are worried dirt will enter. Done.

Warning: use safety glasses in case the lid blows off or something worse happens. Do not use high pressure!

I came up with this idea after my clutch had drained badly and for some reason I was unable to bleed air properly with the pedal pumping method.

why does this not sound like a good idea?

You tell me? It worked for me. So well I'll do it this way the next time.

Motive pressure bleeders do this exact same thing - but without molesting your reservoir cap.

I do not have a degree in chemical engineering - but brake fluid has some nasty qualities and I am not sure your average tube of big-box super glue could be expected to provide a good seal for long. It also absorbs water quickly when exposed to the atmosphere.

Once the glue-seal fails, the fluid will become saturated with water and will bugger your master/slave cylinder (not to mention lower the boiling point of the fluid - not a good situation).

The lid stays dry of fluid. It also has a vent hole anyway so moisture from the atmosphere enters regardless of the extra hole/glue. Personally I'd rather molest the lid than buy an expensive product I need to keep dust free for two years before using again.

I've used professional systems that work this way in a large fleet maintenance facility. The benefits are the speed at which it bleeds once set up and that it only requires one technician.

Would feel better about doing this method if I could buy a 2nd reservoir cap cheaply...

Bump for new question

I'm trying to figure out of my master/slave cylinder(s) need replacing. I loosened the nipple had my dad pump the clutch several times, air and fluid came out. I realized that I needed to have him put the clutch in, tighten the nipple then have him let it out, loosen nipple and repeat until I saw nothing but fluid come out when the clutch is pressed in. I had to add fluid once (1/2 to 2/3 of the reservoir) about halfway through the operation before I gave up to make sure I was doing it right. I can see the slave cylinder working, and no fluid can be seen leaking out of it or the master cylinder, however when he presses the clutch in I can hear a spongy sound and the back of the engine bay, but no fluid leaking and no clutch pressure. Any ideas?

The curlicue line makes the clutch a bitch to bleed sometimes. It will trap air bubbles and make your life difficult. You might try letting the thing gravity-bleed - fill the master reservoir, crack the slave bleeder open, and let it percolate for a while. Eventually you should get fluid out the bottom end. Do you have a MityVac? That might help get things moving by sucking through the slave. Also, get a braided stainless flex line to replace the stupid curlicue.

I'm contemplating getting a mityvac, some people get success without, other cars seem to need a pump of some sort. Much fail has happened since I made the post in this thread. You can read of my idiocracy here:
https://www.miataturbo.net/general-miata-chat-9/gearhead-overcomes-impossible-adversity-64130/

Do you live in Botswana? It must be hard being that fucky poor.

You should donate one to him before you go take a stand against the slave owners in Africa.

Hey dumbass:

1. This thread is old. Go away.
2. Link me to your source of individually priced Miata master cylinder reservoir caps, since the point of my comment is that I'd rather not ruin the one that's currently on my master cylinder.

Bow down before your god bitch

Cool.

If I suddenly lose the ability to bleed my clutch, and I don't have a sawzall handy, I'll remember that these are available for $11 a pop.

Damn, thats more then half the price of a master cylinder.

You plebes.