THE HUBS THAT ACTUALLY WONT KILL US THREAD
Can we get a list going (including part numbers) of all the hubs that are good and wont send us to our immanent death? Also list the commonly mistaken hubs that will fail but most think are ok. ONLY POST IF THE HUB IS CONFIRMED TO BE OK. The point of this is to have an easy resource for people to order the hubs that work. Please, lets keep this thread tidy. Format should be as follows. Good Hubs: List hub and part number Bad Hubs: LIst bad hub and part number Moderators, might be a good idea to stickey this one. |
Read the other threads again. All hubs eventually fail; the ones that are extra bad are very obvious when you look at them. If it looks like the hub below (which is in fact a Timken 513155!), don't run it.
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...6b5c9e0f81.jpg Lots of hub part numbers that are "confirmed good" at one point end up having the weird machining in later batches, so a list of part numbers is not as meaningful as it used to be. There only seem to be a couple "flavors" with more or less Russian roulette scrambling into the boxes these days. |
Ok.
So when looking at the picture of the hub just posted, what part of that picture makes it "DON'T RUN ONE LIKE THIS?" I ask because future, and because searching. Identify, specifically, what in that picture makes that hub known bad. Ideally, contrast with a picture of a known good hub, showing a difference. |
The machined flats where the studs sit. Specifically, the stress riser created with the sharp corner. |
Here’s a good hub.
Originally Posted by PAdutch
(Post 1469811)
I recently bought new hubs to do an abs swap. After reading this thread I went and checked them out. Looks like they are not flat machined like the bad ones. I think they are just the cheapest thing I could get off rock auto.https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...511b07bcaa.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9554ed5a57.jpg |
Excellent. See? That's progress. What is bad, what is good.
This thread will outlive us all, it needs to be accurate in why it is relevant. |
I got my front hubs from Detroit Axle, and they were the properly machined ones. Note: you will need to source the axle/spindle nuts.
I got the rears from Dorman #930-550, with NTN bearings. No issues. Except, the provided axle nut was too large, so you will need two for the rears as well. 1994 non-ABS Now I can take my time to rebuild/repack my old fronts with CV2 and have spares! |
Originally Posted by afm
(Post 1469855)
Read the other threads again. All hubs eventually fail; the ones that are extra bad are very obvious when you look at them. If it looks like the hub below (which is in fact a Timken 513155!), don't run it.
Lots of hub part numbers that are "confirmed good" at one point end up having the weird machining in later batches, so a list of part numbers is not as meaningful as it used to be. There only seem to be a couple "flavors" with more or less Russian roulette scrambling into the boxes these days. |
The problem with the parts list idea is that the hubs aren't made by the company named on the box. There are only a few factories that do the actual manufacturing and different companies (Timken, etc) buy them from those suppliers and put their own brand on them. Which one they buy varies depending on who they can get the best deal from, and it changes all the time. IIRC, someone posted that he'd bought 2 hubs from the same brand, one had the machined flats, the other one didn't.
AFAIK, the only brand I know of that nobody has seen a hub with stupid machining from is Mazda. That's not to say they'll never ship that style of parts, just that they haven't done so yet. --Ian |
Originally Posted by codrus
(Post 1469924)
The problem with the parts list idea is that the hubs aren't made by the company named on the box. There are only a few factories that do the actual manufacturing and different companies (Timken, etc) buy them from those suppliers and put their own brand on them. Which one they buy varies depending on who they can get the best deal from, and it changes all the time. IIRC, someone posted that he'd bought 2 hubs from the same brand, one had the machined flats, the other one didn't.
AFAIK, the only brand I know of that nobody has seen a hub with stupid machining from is Mazda. That's not to say they'll never ship that style of parts, just that they haven't done so yet. --Ian |
Originally Posted by pakmx5
(Post 1469879)
I got my front hubs from Detroit Axle, and they were the properly machined ones. Note: you will need to source the axle/spindle nuts.
I got the rears from Dorman #930-550, with NTN bearings. No issues. Except, the provided axle nut was too large, so you will need two for the rears as well. 1994 non-ABS Now I can take my time to rebuild/repack my old fronts with CV2 and have spares! |
I think some close up photos of failed or failing hubs would really help the thread.
Dann1 |
If you don't like it than don't contribute, nobody is forcing you to serve anything on a silver platter in here.
I got the hubs from Mazdacomp that have the ARP studs already pressed in. They have good machining. I don't have pics handy though. On the Mazdacomp website they are 0000045HUBRR, according to my email history. Isn't someone trying to figure out a way to run the MR-S hubs? EDIT: MR-S Rear Hub Discussion |
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