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THE HUBS THAT ACTUALLY WONT KILL US THREAD

 
Old 03-03-2018, 09:13 PM
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Default THE HUBS THAT ACTUALLY WONT KILL US THREAD

Can we get a list going (including part numbers) of all the hubs that are good and wont send us to our immanent death? Also list the commonly mistaken hubs that will fail but most think are ok. ONLY POST IF THE HUB IS CONFIRMED TO BE OK. The point of this is to have an easy resource for people to order the hubs that work. Please, lets keep this thread tidy.

Format should be as follows.

Good Hubs:
List hub and part number

Bad Hubs:
LIst bad hub and part number


Moderators, might be a good idea to stickey this one.

Last edited by MiataMan00; 03-05-2018 at 11:28 AM.
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Old 03-03-2018, 11:26 PM
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Read the other threads again. All hubs eventually fail; the ones that are extra bad are very obvious when you look at them. If it looks like the hub below (which is in fact a Timken 513155!), don't run it.




Lots of hub part numbers that are "confirmed good" at one point end up having the weird machining in later batches, so a list of part numbers is not as meaningful as it used to be. There only seem to be a couple "flavors" with more or less Russian roulette scrambling into the boxes these days.
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Old 03-04-2018, 12:38 AM
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Ok.

So when looking at the picture of the hub just posted, what part of that picture makes it "DON'T RUN ONE LIKE THIS?"

I ask because future, and because searching.

Identify, specifically, what in that picture makes that hub known bad. Ideally, contrast with a picture of a known good hub, showing a difference.
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Old 03-04-2018, 12:43 AM
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The machined flats where the studs sit. Specifically, the stress riser created with the sharp corner.
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Old 03-04-2018, 12:49 AM
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Here’s a good hub.

Originally Posted by PAdutch View Post
I recently bought new hubs to do an abs swap. After reading this thread I went and checked them out. Looks like they are not flat machined like the bad ones. I think they are just the cheapest thing I could get off rock auto.

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Old 03-04-2018, 01:11 AM
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Excellent. See? That's progress. What is bad, what is good.

This thread will outlive us all, it needs to be accurate in why it is relevant.
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Old 03-04-2018, 02:42 AM
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I got my front hubs from Detroit Axle, and they were the properly machined ones. Note: you will need to source the axle/spindle nuts.

I got the rears from Dorman #930-550, with NTN bearings. No issues. Except, the provided axle nut was too large, so you will need two for the rears as well.

1994 non-ABS

Now I can take my time to rebuild/repack my old fronts with CV2 and have spares!
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Old 03-04-2018, 02:54 AM
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Originally Posted by afm View Post
Read the other threads again. All hubs eventually fail; the ones that are extra bad are very obvious when you look at them. If it looks like the hub below (which is in fact a Timken 513155!), don't run it.

Lots of hub part numbers that are "confirmed good" at one point end up having the weird machining in later batches, so a list of part numbers is not as meaningful as it used to be. There only seem to be a couple "flavors" with more or less Russian roulette scrambling into the boxes these days.
Im not saying that the "good" hubs will never fail, I was referring to the shaved stud flange as shown. Also stud hole size is an issue. That is what I mean by "bad".
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Old 03-04-2018, 12:59 PM
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The problem with the parts list idea is that the hubs aren't made by the company named on the box. There are only a few factories that do the actual manufacturing and different companies (Timken, etc) buy them from those suppliers and put their own brand on them. Which one they buy varies depending on who they can get the best deal from, and it changes all the time. IIRC, someone posted that he'd bought 2 hubs from the same brand, one had the machined flats, the other one didn't.

AFAIK, the only brand I know of that nobody has seen a hub with stupid machining from is Mazda. That's not to say they'll never ship that style of parts, just that they haven't done so yet.

--Ian
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Old 03-04-2018, 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by codrus View Post
The problem with the parts list idea is that the hubs aren't made by the company named on the box. There are only a few factories that do the actual manufacturing and different companies (Timken, etc) buy them from those suppliers and put their own brand on them. Which one they buy varies depending on who they can get the best deal from, and it changes all the time. IIRC, someone posted that he'd bought 2 hubs from the same brand, one had the machined flats, the other one didn't.

AFAIK, the only brand I know of that nobody has seen a hub with stupid machining from is Mazda. That's not to say they'll never ship that style of parts, just that they haven't done so yet.

--Ian
This. I don't think it's possible to make a list that will be accurate for more than a month or two, if that long. Last spring, Moog 513152 was my preferred hub that I stocked up on and told everyone to buy. Since then I've had multiple people tell me that they bought Moogs with bad machining. The bad machining is happening because it makes production cheaper, so I think all of the manufacturers are going that direction. Sucks for us but the manufacturers have very little reason to care about the small racing community.
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Old 03-04-2018, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by pakmx5 View Post
I got my front hubs from Detroit Axle, and they were the properly machined ones. Note: you will need to source the axle/spindle nuts.

I got the rears from Dorman #930-550, with NTN bearings. No issues. Except, the provided axle nut was too large, so you will need two for the rears as well.

1994 non-ABS

Now I can take my time to rebuild/repack my old fronts with CV2 and have spares!
I got 8 front hubs from Detroit axle about 2 years ago. 4abs and 4 regular. All are the good machined ones.
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Old 03-04-2018, 07:08 PM
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I think some close up photos of failed or failing hubs would really help the thread.

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Old 03-04-2018, 11:27 PM
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If you don't like it than don't contribute, nobody is forcing you to serve anything on a silver platter in here.

I got the hubs from Mazdacomp that have the ARP studs already pressed in. They have good machining. I don't have pics handy though. On the Mazdacomp website they are 0000045HUBRR, according to my email history.

Isn't someone trying to figure out a way to run the MR-S hubs?
EDIT:
MR-S Rear Hub Discussion

Last edited by MartinezA92; 03-04-2018 at 11:39 PM.
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