where are you getting the longer one?

One of these: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a597d3e816.png

And one of these (Thats a @hi_im_sean riding a motohorse):

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...38ce65a048.jpg

Disclaimer: I will not be riding the motohorse while operating the lathe.

:hatecat:

That's because the lathe goes on the motorhorse. Duh.

Here are some pictures.

These wont help with anything besides a 949 twin disc, but should help anyone else planning.

Waiting on some measurements from sean for the crank, but we might end up having to take a bit off of the end of the input shaft.

And maybe some custom discs, don't know yet.

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(0.429")
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I will draw it all up tomorrow.

I don't have mspaint at home.

I like dat green shift knob in the last pic.

Brb, rethreading for t5

What is the general consensus on input shaft spline engagement. With the twin disc and the t5 input shaft I would be missing about .12" out of like .75". But only on one disc.

Is that engaged or disengaged?

Engaged. I remeasured. It's like .04 out of .35 or something. I still haven't drawn it all up.

worst case is I strip a disc or input shaft. Still have a second to limp home on.

It'll probably be fine.

Built a little fixture to align the tailshaft housing. This aligns the shift rod hole on the mill and lets me drill a hole for the extension on the back of the T5 perfectly.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f23b256263.png

Just found a t5 flange drawing on an alfa site.

Another T5 Conversion Thread - Alfa Romeo Bulletin Board & Forums

And here is my version with the holes for the alfa bellhousing removed.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...466060c85b.png


Printed one out. Going to check it on the trans tonight.

Going to rough cut a miata bellhousing to make sure I don't need to add any material anywhere and then get this waterjetted.

Have you looked in to use a NA Miata Automatic Bellhousing? Could make adapting easier...

I need the clutch hydraulics

Ah I see, I had intend to use a hydro release bearing, but it's a short enough Bellhousing.

Hydro release bearing costs more than the trans I bought.

Good solution tho.

If you're turning it down I'll sell you a quartermaster hydro release bearing for $150. $250 regular price, brand new.

But my Miata tob is free?

But you're going to be way happier with a smaller diameter tob on the smaller diameter clutch though.

Why?

You get better leverage on the pressure plate fingers with the smaller TOB so the pedal effort is less and the modulation range is larger.

I'm happy with the pedal as is.

I'll take it off your hands, but it's not worth $150 to me

I also hear how little hysteresis there is in a proper release bearing. I'm excited to get my AP Racing release bearing in the T56.

New T5 info. The "shift lever" the thing at pins to the shift rod and has the detent ball in it and the cup for the shifter stick is now officially mystery metal.
It looks like steel
Got steel like weight
The case is harder than 1018 and makes grey gritty chips
the core is softer than 1018 and makes very nice looking copper colored chips
it tack welds fine with tig and steel filler
it cracks directly down a long bead with both steel and 30 filler
Welding fumes make your tongue feel funny and cant taste right for days

I'm going to braze my steel block to the t5 part.

I just welded up the hole i drilled. I'll be boring my new hole for the oil seal tomorrow or thursday.

Then I just need the new shift rod.

Good luck with brazing.

Or you could make the fork thing that the guy in the youtube video does.

you're doing what now? Right you're doing a lip seal I decided just popping the plug out and using a rubber boot would be fine.

I don't have the freeze plug. So I was stuck this way lol.

Oh right. And the damn freeze plug is annoying placed. I ought to be able to find some sort of boot that'll work somehow but I feel like I'm going to end up just fucking using some rubber sheet and RTVing it to the housing.

It really is poorly placed. Its super easy to ghetto rig something. I'm hoping mine works out. Won't know until I drill tomorrow.

Milled the hole for the tailshaft extension. Next up I need to calculate how long it needs to be extended. I may also need to add some sort of support around the seal. Give the shaft something to ride on. Maybe just a simple delrin bushing will do.

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you're going to slide the original t5 block back on there and drill the rod in about the right spot for the roll pin?

Also, FYI, it looks like any of the "shift lever" fits the rod and has the correct detent and nipple thing to work in the tranny, the cup location is what changes. So if you can get a chevy or jeep one its fine.

exactly. And then stick the other shift lever thing out the back. Need to measure and decide how far then send the shift rod to Sean and his moto-horse-lathe for a new one.

I brazed it. It would look way better if I hadnt tried welding it first. I made my adapter plate and got most stuff fitted, all I have left is to cut the rod to length and drill the 2nd hole in it. I forgot to take pictures of everything. I ended up having to put the actual shift in backwards, had to cut up the shifter hole a little, and I had to drill a couple holes in the tunnel to get to the rear bolts. Pictures will make it easier to understand. I could have gotten away with just the holes or maybe not at all if the tranny's shifter was a couple inches further forward. I could have cut the same amount out of the tranny hole if I just used the camaro tail housing and stock shifter I think. I'm going to have to make a custom shift stick to get the knob where I want, the ebay stuff is usable right now, but with the bolt on shifter stick it'll be easier to frabricobble something together for better placement.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f47c15ef9b.jpg

Oh I too ended up just drilling a hole in the back of the tranny instead of pushing the freeze plug out, I have to make a felt seal still. Felt will be fine for this.

What I screwed up:

The t5 input shaft must be shortened. Otherwise it will interfere with the crankshaft. I do not know how much this needs to be shortened yet. But I will cut it so that the tip is at the same place in relation to where the splines start as the miata input shaft.

So the new length is 7.189-(amount necessary to make the t5 input shaft tip in the same place as the miata input shaft)+4.1-3.75 = 7.224" - antmttistitspatmis.

Based off of a measurement from a locust forum the miata transmission is 32" from bellhousing face to shifter pivot.
Subtract .410" gets you 31.59" from tip of input shaft to the center of the shifter.

The t5 transmission I am using is 26.7"-(the above amount taken off the input shaft) from the tip to the center of the pivot.

So my shifter must be extended 4.89" - (the above amount taken off the input shaft).

@Leafy, or @TurboTim do either of you know if that will interfere with the back of the transmission?

How long did you extend yours leafy.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...95e306d6bf.png

If you take the Mustang shifter and flip it backwards and put it against the back of the tranny, that's how far back mine is.

No.

I'm starting to think this is the tail housing we want instead when doing these.

2006 06 FORD MUSTANG MANUAL TRANSMISSION 5 SPEED 4.0L SOHC OEM | eBay

Thats a weird remote shifter. Pass

we wouldnt make it remote though.

Why would you want it even closer?

I see what you are saying. Interesting.

Found some more interesting stuff about the shifter.

The mustang shifter has a long plate that goes out in front, and would interfere with the stock shifter box in my plan. It also has these weird rounded edges that go around the trans.

Plan is to have a chunk of aluminum that bolts onto the stock shifter "box" and extends past the end of the trans. And then bolt a shifter onto that. Well it turns out the s10 shifter has an almost square mounting plate, and mounts on a flat surface. So no hacking up the stock shifter.

Oh and my roommate has an s10 with a t5, and is out of town until mid january :D :D

Win.

You know I have my Mustang shifter mounted backwards. The camaro also has a square one. But only the mustang has the 40 dollar ebay adjustable one. The other versions are 150+.

The S10 one doesn't have the turned down edges though.

And link to adjustable? In what way

My Mustang one doesn't have turned down edges. If you search eBay for Mustang t5 shifter you'll find it. They have adjustable centering force, modular stick, and adjustable stops.

This one?

RACING SHORT THROW QUICK SHIFTER FOR 83-04 FORD MUSTANG/THUNDERBIRD T5/T45 RED | eBay

Yup

Could you measure the diameter of the base of the shifter cylinder thingy.

its uh like 3 inches. I'll measure it sunday.

Its 3.5 inches.

Havent measured top of yoke to shift rod, but my shifter is like right above the yoke and clears.

Is your shifter mounted the same height as the normal shift block? I went to find driveshafts and everyone want 75 for something I didn't need.

yes. If you're getting a custom driveshaft I know my shop prefered to have me put the actual yoke in the car and measure the length to the center of the yoke instead of doing it the way I saw to do it online.

I didn't want to buy anything without talking to a driveshaft shop first.

Picture is broken for me.

Hmmm.. I can see it on the mobile and desktop site.

Its a simple bar that mounts to the T5 shifter, found it on one of the V8 Miata sites.

Sure that might work. I just didn't like how that works. I'm hoping my extended shift rod idea works.