List Your Setup....
 

So now that we have this section lets see what everyone is using.

I currently have-

Tokico Illumina shocks/springs (just ordered Ground Controls 500F/350R)
RB front hollow bar
Stock rear bar
HD M2 Sport w/DD
15x7 Drag DR 29
205/50-15 Nitto NT Neogen VR
Axxis Ultimates
Cross drilled & slotted rotors
SS Braided brake & clutch lines
Wilwood 570 Degree Brake Fluid

I hate the springs. Way to soft and car has lots of body roll. Ground Controls on order.
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Look at my sig vvvv too much to list again...handles great

flex 7/6
tubular 1.25 front bar (soft)
no rear bar
6ul/RS2
kaaz lsd
mazdaspeed front shock brace
goodwin big phat brakes
zoom

Soon to be:
Koni sports
GC's 525/350
FCM 36mm bumps
RB 1.125 hollow sway, brace kit, gearhead garage adjustable endlinks
6UL 205/50 RT615s
Axxis Ultimates

JIC FLTA2's
RS2's on 15x8's
Carbotech Pads
Offset delrin front uppers
ISC Links
Fully Urethaned

BC Racing coilovers (OEM valving)

QA1 550s front 7"/2.5"
QA1 300s rear 7"/2.5"

RB hollow front bar + end links
OEM rear bar

4.1 1.8L rear w/ Kaaz 1.5-way LSD

FM frame rails

15x7 Konig Rewinds w/ some r-comp tires for track (looking for 225/50/15 tires)
16x7 whatever the hell they are w/ Hankook crap 380tw tires

01+ Sport brake upgrade
Blank OEM-replacement rotors
Did not decide on pads yet
Braided brake lines of course
DOT-4 fluid

Stance GR+ coilovers 9k/7k
Stock sway bars

Manatee racing tie rod ends
Level7Tune tie rod spacers

KAAZ 1.5way lsd

FM frame rails
AutoEXE 3point strut bar
HDHC 4point roll bar

Wilwood BBK

16x8 002's

Bilstein Shocks
H&R Springs
R-Package Sways
Cobalt 3-Point STB
Beatrush RSTB
FM Frame Rails
HDHCHTDDw/HB
15x8 002s Kumho Ecsta SPT 205/50/15
OEM Rotors with Hawk HPS Pads
SS Braided Brake and Clutch Lines
Cusco 1.5 Way LSD

Solid handling with little body roll, although a little too much for long distance driving if you're sensitive to a rougher ride.

Only thing I want to do now is to add the Energy Suspension master bushing kit.

suspension:

700F/325R
Bilstein HD w/ SM valving
RB enlinks
RB swaybar reinforcement
25mm solid front bar
15mm solid rear bar
FCM tophats
FCM 40mm bumpstops

brakes:

stock

drivetrain:

4.10:1 Torsen
ACT HD
MC engine mounts

suspension:

• R-pkg Bilstein shocks
• FCM sleeves/perches with 300F/220R
• FCM tophats
• FCM 46mm bumpstops
• NB front sway, no rear

brakes:

• Axxis Ultimates

drivetrain:

• 4.10 Torsen

My shitz:

• FM Springs
• KYB AGX's
• FM rear shock mounts
• FM front and rear sways
• HDHCHTDD
• EBC green's

Soon to be changing to Teins and add some bracing.

Vash-

13" Daytons
no brakes
no springs

Yeah it scrapez n gotta throw a boat anchor out to stop but that's how we roll

str8 ballin

11.8 F/12.3 R ride height
Tein Flex 9/6
Hollow RB bar front/stock bar rear
gearhead's endlinks all around
Torsen
15x9 6UL 5/45/15 RS2

sports package springs
AGX 4 way
P.O. Specs alignment
FM front "big" bar

And enough oomph to tear it up all over the texas region

FM Springs, 318F 233R
Bilstein HDs revalved by FCM
Homemade spring perch spacers (now 13F 13.25R, was 12.25F 12.5R)
FCM 46mm bumpstops and NB tophats
Moss solid front bar, no rear bar

Bridgestone RE-01R on Enkei 15x7 wheels

Brakes: stock (seriously, on the street they work fine)

Front: Camber -1.5°, Caster ~5.5°, Toe 0
Rear: Camber -2°, Toe ~.1° in (per side)


With this damper setup, I could have gotten away with higher spring rates than I used.

Illuminas, FCM bumpstops, and FM springs, stock everything else.

Plenty of grip and a great ride, but sways just a bit more than I like. Have not measured right height but I'd like to be an inch lower.

Just recently swapped them, so have not aligned it yet, but I may cut a coil first

-KONI RACE
-Ground Controls, 700# 6" springs front, 450# 7" springs rear
-KONI-supplied bumpstops
-stock NA tophats
-RB 1.125" tubular FSB w/ RB blocks and brace
-MSM 14mm RSB
-2.3° front camber, 5.9° front caster, 2.5° rear camber, 1/16" toe out front, 1/32" toe in rear
-6speed
-Rx7 LSD preloaded to 110lbs
-15x8 +40 6ULs w/ 225/45 NT-01s

Wishlist:
-Realign to 2.0 front, 1.5 rear, 3.5 caster, no toe
-remove RSB

Here's mine

Suspension:
450f/336r
Ohlins DFV coilovers
FM f/r sways
RB endlinks

Chassis:
Cobalt 3pt STB
FM butterfly brace
BOss Fog clearview Rollbar

Brakes:
Brembo Slots
Hawk HPS pads
Goodridge SS lines
SuperBlu Brake Fluid

Drivetrain:
ACT HD clutch
Fidanza 8 pounder
01 Torsen type II LSD

Wheel/Tires:
Enkei RPF1's 15x7 et+41
Kook RS2's 225/45's

And Icehawks Align specs

Just enough to have some fun...

Tein SS 390/340 (what they come with)
FM 1" solid front bar
ISC solid endlinks
no rear bar
NB topmounts
cut tein bumpstops
Kosei K1 15x7 205/50/15 'kook RS2
HDSDD

Was aligned to Icehawk's specs from m.net, but I need to get it re-aligned, probably to same specs.

Stock 1.8 brakes
PBR ceramic pads (same as ultimates)
I need some braided lines

Handles pretty well and has enough travel at this height(12.5F, 13R) but I am kind of tempted to lower it a tad closer to (12F 12.5R) although I may try out the ISC topmounts(can someone clarify that they will give more travel than the NB tops?) first so I don't loose any travel.

-Stock Blown Shit
-Stock brakes

i think i just killed this thread lol

Ground Control perches
450/375 lb springs
bilstein HD's
FCM bumpers
RB hollow front w/brace
RB solid rear on "soft" setting
lanny's alignment
corner weighted

Stock 1.6 brakes (94whp) with hawk hp+

in the toilet bowl at MSR I was sustaining 1.31 lat G's on Azenis. lol The car is perfectly neutral and I couldn't ask for more out of the suspension. Everyone likes to jock Tein more expensive stuff, but my #'s speak for themselves frankly. Everyone still resists them though for whatever reason.
The only thing I'm going to change is FCM valving when that time comes. Right now the car beats the shit out of me on the street, but its great on the track.

Corner weighting was the best thing I did to that car. The sway bars gave me 1 full second at hallett, the corner weighting gave me 1.5 seconds on average.

Kyb Agx
R/B Springs
R/B Sways/End Links/Braces
Fat Cat Bumps
FM Butterfly
Drilled/Green stuff

Flat as a board but a half inch too low for the vary lip. Always have to remember to stop before the bumpers when I park, found that out the hard way the first time.

why? isn't caster good for road feel and turn-in?

if you don't have power steering its unnecessary heft to the steering and with the rest of that alignment and suspension setup I'm sure he has plenty of feel and turn-in. I think lots of caster can also contribute to bumpsteer, but don't quote me on that.

I'm pretty sure bump steer is exclusively related to ride height.

Koni sports
FCM mounts & bumpstops
Stock springs
FM sways (stiff front, soft rear) w/ Advanced Autosports endlinks
Carbotech XP10/8, braided lines, ATE fluid
Toyo T1Rs on stock 14x6 hollow spokes
Alignment named after some guy, forget which one

It's a nice handling street setup with a comfortable ride. As I slowly make it more track worthy, stuff is gradually getting replaced. Brakes were first and I'm really diggin the Carbotechs so far. Coilover sleeves w/ stiffer springs are in the near future.

Tein Ha's 10k front 8k rear
nb tophats front, danscreations rear, ohlins short bumpstops
cusco sways, gearheadgarage endlinks, awr sway mounts
fm frame rails, Harddog rollbar

Front:

KYB AGX + FM old style springs front (yea, yea I know it's a clearance issue, will be fixed soon)
FM (grey) sways
Goodwin endlinks
1.8 brake upgrade
SS lines
XP10 front

Rear:

Tein HA rear
FM (grey) sways
Goodwin endlinks
Torsen
1.8 brake upgrade
SS lines
XP8 rear


Alignment:

-2.5* front camber -2.8* rear camber.
0* toe front .15* toe in rear.
4* castor.

Car feels suprisingly neutral on track, aside from minor front squat related instability in the breaking zone of one corner, and lifting of a inside tire causing spin in one very tight highload/banked turn when I have race tires on. That will be resolved soon.

ive got the stock wheels
stock tires
stock springs
stock bushings
stock struts

dam.......... i suck

Koni's + GCs -- 450 front, 350 rear
FM Rear mounts
RB Tubular sways

PBR Ultimates for the brakes (stock 1.8 everything else)....
SS Lines

Dave,

Ok I'll play...

Koni Yellows, full stiff front, full soft rear
GC coilover, 650 front 450 rear
RB hollow bar front, stock 12mm rear
205/40 16's Azenis
fleabay tower bar
4 pt. double diagonal roll bar
Hawk HP+ all around
Brembo slotted rotors
SS lines and ATE superblue
4.1 Torsen

uninstalled:
ES bushing kit with diff mounts, MMR motor mounts
all new bearings, ball joints and tie rods from 93LE
(as soon as i get some time off work)

still want FM butterfly brace and rails (or homemade one)
6UL 15x9's with 275 hoosiers for auto-x
new rear top hats for a bit more travel
750lbs front springs

just added a set of 205/50/15 Z214 tires to go with my setup ;)

Tokico Illuminas set to 4f/3r
FM Springs
FCM Topmounts
FCM 36mm MCU jounce bumpers
RB 15/16 solid frt sway set on hard
Currently no rear bar, soon to install 11mm stock rear bar
Custom Heim joint endlinks c/o McMaster-Carr

Kosei K1-TS
205/50R15 RT-615s
1.8L front brakes
4.1 Torsen

HDHC Single Diag roll bar
Cannon Brace
Custom front subframe brace
Hardtop

New FM springs
FCM top hats & bump stops
KYB AGX
New FM sway bars
RB end links up front, need another pair for the back
and at work I made spring spacers so I wouldn't rub, .6 front .66 rear
225/50-15 toyo proxxes 4 on enkei 15x7's. suck tires but when I got them it was my dd

1.8 "BBK"
FM SS lines
Hawk HPS pads
home made MC brace off of strut bar

oh, and I'm Josh Castaldi from this here diary entry:
http://www.targamiata.com/diary.php?UID=80
although the funny part is I've only installed it, haven't plumbed it, looking forward to using it, but not looking forward to making hardlines for it.

Koni sports
FCM mcu bumps and mounts
1st gen FM springs
99 front sway bar with adjustable endlinks

Powerslot rotors
Hawk hp+ pads
SS lines
superblue fluid

Clutchnet 6 puck
ACT pp
OEM bearings
99 3.90 rear
Kosei K1's with rs2

Are the shocks off the shelf or are they re-valved? Are these the same shocks that came on the 93LE and other limited addition Miatas?

Anyone on here have any hook ups with gettin Ground Controls?
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I've never seen the Ground Controls sell less (unless maybe on ebay) than $399.

Suspension:
Eibach ERS 6" 450lb/in 2.5w fronts
Eibach ERS 6" 300lb/in 2.5w rears
R-package Bilsteins
FCM Coilovers
FCM 36mm bumpstops
Custom NB tophats
Racing Beat 1.125" tubular sway with brace / supports.
Racing Beat adjustable endlinks
Stock rear sway

Chassis:
Ebay STB
Autopower 4pt.
Hardtop

Brakes:
Stock 1.8 Blanks.
Axxis/PBR Ultimates
ATE Superblue fluid

Drivetrain:
RX7 LSD.
3.636 R&P
MMR Diff mounts

Wheel/Tires:
15x9 6UL's
225/45/15 RS2's
15x7 K1's
225/45/15 R6's

Down for bodywork, just recently installed everything besides the LSD. A month until that one.

red drop tops shit is tip top.

Thanks.

Makes the steering really heavy mid-corner too. I want to lighten it up a little. I have plenty of road feel :bang:

Suspension:
Tein Flex, standard springs
RB Solid front sway bar
no rear sway bar

Chassis:
hard dog sport double diag, I guess that makes the car a little stiffer

Brakes:
Goodwin BBK
EBC Greenstuff pads
Plain ol' brake fluid

Drivetrain:
3.90 torsen from a '99
1.8 from a '94

Wheel/Tires:
16x7 K1's
205/45/16 T1R's

Are those the same as Koni adjustable?
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I think all Koni's (for the Miata) are adjustable.
I should have been more specific, they are the Sports, yellow in color, sorry if this was missleading pal, I have just always heard them refered to as Yellows around my neck of the woods.

Well I asked because a few sites list the koni adjustable and the koni race..
http://www.gomiata.com/konadshocab8.html
Either way im glad to see what spring rates you using with them as I see them in my future.
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I am pretty sure the race ones are adjustable as well, actually I am 100% sure.
Hope this helps.

Lev-my advice to you (and this is what I would do if i was doing it again) is to buy just the rear ones new, and buy blown front ones (cheap) and have them re-valved to race spec, and get a 700-750 spring instead of the 650.
That's how I would do it if I had the knowledge then that I do now.

Did you have to have yours revalved for the springs your using now? Would they need to be revalved for 500lb springs?
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No, these are new out of the box settings, car feels pretty good with the hollow bar up front, but I feel like I need a little more spring and shock to get faster...esp. once I start using hoosiers. The rear feels really awesome though, I am very happy with it, very good throttle control (I don't know if that's the correct term).

Thanks :bigtu:
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Okay

I've got

GC/Eibach Race/Tokico Full soft rear, full stiff front
FM Sways
Chaps S15 15x7 w/ 205/45/15 Yokahama S Drives
Brakes will have to wait till I finish with my turbo :-D

What spring rates?
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There are two common Koni shocks for the Miata- the Koni "Sport" and the Koni "Race".

Both are yellow and are adjustable. The "Race" shock could be considered a re-valved version of the "Sport", as they are both of similar construction, but their valving adjusts over a different range.

I'd suggest calling up Shaikh at FatCat Motorsports and Brian at Goodwin Racing to discuss the correct shock for your application. I've had the opportunity to learn from them both at some length- very knowledgeable dudes.

Links:
http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/
http://www.good-win-racing.com/

Joe, how sure of that are you, I know the race shocks are shorter than the sports, but I could have sworn they were silver as well. I can't seem to find any pics and the pic on brians site show a sport shock. I'm a littl lost on this one.

I've got a ghetto setup... I guess two owners ago the guy cut the springs and they were way soft, so it was sitting on the bump stops, so the previous owner found some Escort Wagon springs (yeah...) and slapped 'em on the front, then it was sitting too high (duh), so he used some sort of permanent spring compressor to bring the height down to normal again... These springs are like rocks...

But the upside is the car came with a complete parts car, so I'm going to drop in the stock '94 shocks/springs into it shortly, hopefully it'll clear up the crazy bumpy ride.

Stance GR+ coil-overs (standard 8k/f, 6k/r springs)
FM sways front and rear
Gearhead's garage endlinks
stock 15's w/ Azenis
stock rotors w/ EBC Greenstuff pads

waiting on longer/heavier rear springs and tires for my 6UL's...

why would you only increase the rear spring rates? Sounds like you're going to have a real tail happy setup.

i say longer/heavier because i havent decided which to do yet. my car is hitting the bumpstops in the rear over big dips and bumps. i havent decided yet if i'm going to just get longer rear springs to get off the bumps or go heavier all around. 9kf/ 7kr maybe...i need to talk to stance and see what they think.

You need new rear top mounts, there simply isn't enought travel back there.
I would not go heavier spring in the rear.