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Old 05-18-2013, 01:56 PM   #1
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Hey,

I've had a mechanic spend a couple weeks supposedly working on my diff. He just called me claiming that the bearing cap bolts/screws/whatever, when he torqued them down, one of the 4 stripped, the other turned into an hourglass shape.

From what I understand, we're talking 20-30ftlbs of torque on them, there's no way they should be doing this kind of stuff at those torque levels, right?
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Old 05-18-2013, 02:26 PM   #2
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Yes- except that I had it happen on a 1.6 diff I built way back. New bolts bud.
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Old 05-18-2013, 03:31 PM   #3
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Honestly I've found off road shops have a better idea of how to do diffs. They do lockers and ARB's all the time and the run of the mill shop might do it once a year. That said NO it should not do that at that torque.

Also yes I know we aren't doing lockers in Miatas, but they do know how to set up the lash and other things related to diff stuff better than most rednecks with hammers.
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Old 05-18-2013, 04:34 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m2cupcar View Post
Yes- except that I had it happen on a 1.6 diff I built way back. New bolts bud.
Where can I get said new bolts?
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Old 05-19-2013, 09:57 AM   #5
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This was over 15 yrs ago- but I'm guessing I got them from Mazda competition parts since it was for my showroom stock car. sry

I agree- they're not supposed to, but I remember explicitly not be able to reach the torque spec. It got to X and stayed there as I turned. I backed it out and it had the hour glass stretch. I tried the second one and it made min. spec, but started stretch as tried to raise it beyond that.
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Old 05-19-2013, 10:04 AM   #6
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Mine stretched too, replaced them with some I had in my tool box. Flanged grade 8 of the right pitch and length.

Wonder if they're randomly torque to yield bolts.
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Old 05-20-2013, 01:19 AM   #7
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I've re-torqued (bending beam type, not click) those bolts 3 or 4 times in the diff I keep taking apart to help the owner adjust the giken in it. Honestly if you're only doing carrier work you should just do it yourself. 7-8" mics and dial indicators are actually pretty cheap, like it should cost you $100 for both for some that should be accurate enough to set pre-load and backlash. And its so friggen easy. I've not done R&P setup but the crush tube scares me. At this point I can practically set backlash and pre-load by feel, at least on this particular diff.
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