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Cats given. I've been heavily using your write-up to plan my MK60E1 install.
Could please elaborate on how you wired the brake light switch with the 5 pin relay? I saw you mention you would explain it further, but I'm not seeing a breakdown on the wiring. I'm debating the effort required to copy your approach vs swapping in a BMW switch.
Cats given. I've been heavily using your write-up to plan my MK60E1 install.
Could please elaborate on how you wired the brake light switch with the 5 pin relay? I saw you mention you would explain it further, but I'm not seeing a breakdown on the wiring. I'm debating the effort required to copy your approach vs swapping in a BMW switch.
From reading the above, this is the same as on my MK60, which makes sense. The ABS brake switch wire needs to be grounded until the brake is pressed (ie, brake lights on). So on your 5 pin relay, connect pin 87A to ground and connect pin 30 to the ABS brake switch wire. Make sure that pin 87 is not connected to anything. That takes care of the ABS signals. Now connect pin 85 to ground and pin 86 to your brake lights (any wire that shows 12v when the brakes are on).
From reading the above, this is the same as on my MK60, which makes sense. The ABS brake switch wire needs to be grounded until the brake is pressed (ie, brake lights on). So on your 5 pin relay, connect pin 87A to ground and connect pin 30 to the ABS brake switch wire. Make sure that pin 87 is not connected to anything. That takes care of the ABS signals. Now connect pin 85 to ground and pin 86 to your brake lights (any wire that shows 12v when the brakes are on).
Hope that helps!
ETA, for the visual learners:
Thanks @thebeerbaron I'm going to steal your picture and put it the directions!
@RacingRazorback Glad this is helping you! If you have anything that is specific to the MK60E1 that others may want to know about, let me know and happy to add to the info. Couple other things to go along with the relay info. On my 99 Miata the wire from the brake switch that you want to tap into is Green (the other wire at the brake switch is white with a stripe). Also, I briefly looked into the BMW switch again (because I'm going to clean up some of the wiring in my car over the winter) and the BMW switch doesn't "screw in" like the Miata (and historically most) brake light switch. Instead it snaps into place, so you would have to figure out a way to attach it if you go that direction. (i.e. the relay is probably easier.)
I did a very similar install on my car. Mounted Rear e90 Sensors on the front of my miata, Tapped a hole into my Brofab BBK brackets, Used a set of his rings adapted mag rings. In the rear, ground the miata abs spindle casting nub flat and tapped a hole for the E90 front sensors pointing straight at the rings. Rings were created by brofab as well slipped onto Miata axles.
Spent 1 season of TT on this setup so far. Have had 1 or 2 issues with sensors not registering and throwing error codes, after tweaking a bit all is well.
Originally Posted by rb92673
BTW, I had my first race a couple weekends ago, and the MK60e5 worked great. Zero programming, zero testing. Straight out of the trailer and onto the track. Bled with an OBD2 reader and Motive power bleeder. Never got INPA to work.
Not sure how I missed both of your messages earlier.
@rb92673 I like how you drilled and tapped for the mounts. & INPA is a royal pain to install. If your OBD2 scanner can run the bleed procedure, that is all you need. I didn't realize some of the normal scanners could run the bleed procedure. I'll add that for people to look into / that has to have saved you at least a day in not trying to load up INPA and learn how it works.
@muthagoose , I had a sensor (from the junkyard) go bad and had to swap it out. I was really surprised when I locked up a tire (what was that?!?! LOL) Realized I gave people the wrong part number in the directions and just fixed that.
Oops, I think I wired mine to provide 12v to the MK60e5 when brakes pedal is not pressed, open when pressed.
You only need it for the INPA bleed procedure. Otherwise you don't need the relay / brake light switch at all. (I know because my first relay died and the ABS kept on working fine. Only realized the relay died when I needed to bleed the brakes and INPA wouldn't work for me. Since you are bleeding with your OBD2 scanner...you could get rid of all of this part of the wiring.)
From reading the above, this is the same as on my MK60, which makes sense. The ABS brake switch wire needs to be grounded until the brake is pressed (ie, brake lights on). So on your 5 pin relay, connect pin 87A to ground and connect pin 30 to the ABS brake switch wire. Make sure that pin 87 is not connected to anything. That takes care of the ABS signals. Now connect pin 85 to ground and pin 86 to your brake lights (any wire that shows 12v when the brakes are on).
Hope that helps!
ETA, for the visual learners:
Great - this is really helpful. Thank you!
@rdb138 , sure thing! I'll circle back with any E1 specific notes you may want to add for E1 installs. Also, thanks for the intel on which wire you used for your '99. I can compare wiring diagrams to verify which wire to use on my '91. Agreed that a relay would be an easier install than figuring out how to mount a BMW switch.
@rdb138 Just buttoned up my MK60E1 install and had a few notes others might find helpful:
(Potentially) E1 Specific Notes:
For folks who don't already know, the E1 system can use stock ABS rings and E46 wheel speed sensors without needing a Happy Cactus system, so that part of the install is a breeze, especially if you already have axles and hubs with ABS rings like I did
The switch-less cable you and others recommended didn't work for me. I probably just got one that slipped QA/QC, but I tried this switched one and it worked just fine. Including in case it's actually an E1 specific thing.
Before I confirmed that video's files worked, I paid a guy on eBay to do a more "official" install of INPA while troubleshooting my connection issue that turned out to be the cable
I drew the pump's power from the main fuse block located in the back-left corner of the engine bay near the wiper motor
I wired pin 1 to fuse 5 with a 40A FLF fuse cartridge. This is the fuse meant for ABS from factory (convenient)
Since my car didn't come with ABS, I had to terminate the wire coming from pin 1 with a female spade connector and insert it to the plug going into the fuse block where I presume the factory ABS would have been wired
I wired pin 32 to fuse 10 with a 30A fuse tap. This is the fuse for the headlight retractors
Make sure to get a fuse tap rated for 30A if you take this path
I got my switched 5A power for both the pump and OBD from fuse 13 in the interior fuse block with a fuse tap. This is the fuse meant for airbags, which I've taken out of my car
I'm no wiring expert, but I'd probably advise against tapping this fuse if you're relying on airbags for your safety
I also used a yaw sensor with 6 pins that ended up working using the following pin out:
Pump Pin 11 (twisted w/ 26) > Yaw Sensor Pin 2
Pump Pin 26 (twisted w/ 11) > Yaw Sensor Pin 1
Pump Pin 27 > Yaw Sensor Pin 5
Pump Pin 39 > Yaw Sensor Pin 3
Last edited by RacingRazorback; Mar 3, 2026 at 10:32 AM.
Nice that you can use an easier solutions for sensors. I read somewhere that E1 variants only have a single internal pressure sensor, not sure if/how that would affect performance. Do you happen to know the part numbers for E1 versions? Would "6789301" work? I read they came in E9x chassis models, but so did E5, AFAIK.
That's right. When it's 5 v 1, I have to imagine the E5 at least has the potential to do a better job. I'm just not sure how much more you get out of the box without doing any flashing or fine tuning for your car and setup. I haven't seen a back-to-back of E1 vs E5, but I did see the below linked one of a stock E1 vs a motorsport flashed unit. TL;DR - motorsport flashing gets you (slightly) better performance in trail-braking (at least for E1). That was enough for me to not bother with flashing, for now.
I don't know the exhaustive list, but yes, my pump and module are 6789300 and 6789301, respectively. Any system listed for a 4-cyl E9X should be an E1, and those were only sold in EUR. Still, I got mine shipped to my door for like $60. Systems from all other E9X trims should be an E5.
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