My new motor mounts ... wtf
 

So ... I'm confused. The existing stock motor mounts have a stud through them. On one side, the cradle that mounts to the engine is bolted. The other side is bolted through the cup frame support. Thus, the engine is tied to the frame through a rubber damper.

My new mazdaspeed motor mounts (obtained from corksport) have rubber nipples on each side instead of a stud sticking through them. Now, normally I'm all for rubber nipples. But in this case, wtf do I do with them?

At this point, looking at them, the only thing I can think is that I need to cut them off, then drill the motor mounts for the stud. I can do that if I have to. But, come on. Seriously? None of the motor mount threads I've been able to find either here or m.net have mentioned having to do that.

In this pic, at the top is the passenger side motor mount, still bolted to the engine cradle as it came out of the car. Below is one of the new motor mounts.

oh boy....


They are plastic caps that cover the threads... you can pull them off...

those are caps to keep the studs from rusting you dork. try pulling them off

edit ... just read your sig "never underestimate stupid"

edit 2 ... damn your cardriverx, beat me to it

For the love of god. Been too long of a day ... the rubber "nipples" are actually just sleeves covering the studs molded into the mount.

I am now going to have a beer.

best thread.

:giggle: hey at least it didnt take a whole thread to figure it out

lol
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

hahahaha. Who would expect condoms on the threads?

http://failblog.files.wordpress.com/...sing-fail1.jpg

PUT DOWN THE WRENCHES!



lol wait will someone posts this on miata.net lol for a change

Lol.


I've had these days before.

Mobius, mobius, mobius....

Sigh....

Let me know what you think of those mounts when they are in. I'm thinking about them myself. Bitch to do though I guess. Particularly when you are drunk and high at the same time apparently.

Rubber sleeves. Sheesh. Thanks for the chuckle this morning. Genuinely laughed and smiled. I needed that.

:bowrofl:

I cant lie, I was confused for about 10 seconds when I got my RX7 Mazdaspeed competition mounts. I thought "How in the hell do you mount these bastards, no threads!" But then I pulled them off... ooohhhhh... I see. Yes, go have another beer, drink one for me.

You will love them once you put them in and wonder why you did not do it sooner.

They are not that hard to put in,it took me around 1 hour to install them.

Just don't drink too much or do too much drugs before hand,then you should be good to go.

I dunno, I dont love mine. I saw a pretty large improvement with my RX7's with them, but never noticed a thing in my Miata, even with my old mounts being torn. Idle might be a little bit smoother, but I think thats just going from torn mounts to new mounts. I guess its ok though, since these are only a little more than regular OEM's.

I like mine... other than all the extra rattles you get from the engine bay.
And honestly I thought WTF for a couple seconds when I first saw them
Then I pulled the caps off
only took me about 30-45 minutes to put them in.

Took the words out of my mouth.

:bowrofl::bowrofl::bowrofl::bowrofl:

Yes, last night Mobius = Mental Fail :)

It only took about 15 minutes to get the passenger side out. I have my transmission jack under the oil pan with a piece of 2x6 for cushioning. Took off the 4 bolts that hold that cradle onto the engine and was able to maneuver it out the front pretty easily. Since my car's already on jackstands with the engine undertray off that time's not included.

Fortunately, when I'm ready for a beer, I have several choices. Young's Double Chocolate Stout (nitro), Rogue Honey Wheat, Laurelwood's Piston Pale Ale, and Laurelwood's Workhorse IPA on the other nitro tap.

The piston is from the V4 gasoline starter motor of a 1958 John Deer 730 diesel. Interesting sequence of operations to start that sucker. It's difficult to see, but the side skirt of that piston is mostly gone on the backside. The starter motor was running fine despite that; it was only discovered when my father-in-law found the extra pieces in the oil pan. Wasn't even any vibration since that little starter motor is solidly bolted to 7000 lbs of steel.

Epic.

that right there explains it

Thats awesome, more pics of inside please.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

That's a true Northwesterner! Microbrew capitol of the world. Seattle can have it's coffee. Oregonians prefer being known for our heavenly hop creations. That and overpriced fermented grape juice.

Will do. I'll take some tonight.

Thought the same thing when I got mine...haha....

hm I like the chain bottle opener.

cool setup you got there, i want to put a kegerator in the basement and run a line up into my kitchen and drill a hole in the sink and install the tap there, that way i don't have to deal with drips.

Yeah but then you will have warm nasty beer sitting in the line. Might get clogged up or start growing stuff if you let it sit there. I guess you would just have to drink more offen.

yeah i've been researching this a little bit, they sell refigerated lines and insulated lines. others have just suggested run the beer a few seconds and it will be cold and clean but we shall see. it's only about 15' the way i'm imagining it.

When you make a comment like that you best be right...but you are wrong on the reason for the caps, but nice try.

Well, they probably do assist in stopping rust (though the studs are coated), but I think its more for protecting the threads from getting messed up from impact with something else, like the ground if you drop them like I did.

I knew that they could be taken off at least :fawk: I didn't sit there very long to think about the purpose of them though, my apologies.

Mach - you can run the line upstairs into the kitchen, then run it through a copper coil in the fridge. That way it may be warm in the line between pours, but it will pass through the heat exchanger in the fridge and be cold on the pour. A good friend of mine runs his that way. His kitchen tap basically comes out of the side of the kitchen fridge. The way his kitchen is oriented, the fridge is in a cabinet, and he has counter space next to it. So the line comes up from the basement, into the heat exchanger (copper coil in a bucket of water in the bottom salad drawer), then out the side of the fridge through the cabinet out the tap. I didn't think to get a picture of it when I was there tonight.

Edit - obviously, the salad drawer can no longer hold salad, and isn't opened easily. But it works well. Even in summertime (they don't have AC) the beer comes out cold.

New beer fridge thread in BS area, see that for more pics.

Im guessing as long as the lines stay full, the beer inside cant really go bad (well, no faster, or not much faster than in a can) since the beer is in a copper pipe, and is shielded from air from the end of the line by more beer. Beer doesnt mind being warm as long as there isnt air. I may have to make me something like this. I wonder if I can get Abita in a keg... Purple Haze :cry: So good it makes me cry.

Oh god, I do feel like crying. Id dying for a Purple Haze, but no stores carrying it are open right now. Anybody else drink any Abita brews? Some of the best beers around imo.

Beer is in fact temperature sensitive. Not as sensitive as it is to oxygen, and to light, but it is temp sensitive. Ideally the beer you buy has been refrigerated from the time it left the brewery until the time you buy it.

If it's kept on tap, in the dark, refrigerated, yes it can last a long time. My stout's been in the fridge since Jan 2008, the IPA since October, the honey wheat since July.

Well yeah, but I meant for short times. I doubt it being room temp in the lines for a day or two would hurt too much. First glass might not be quite as fresh as the second, but who cares.

The caps are there to prevent either paint or rubber from the insert molding process from getting on the threads. nice try everyone.

seriously, who give a flying fuck what those caps are for anyway? They are just there and then you pull them off and they are done.

15' of wasted beer? My god man. There are starving children in Africa. I was offended that you were wasting drips. Now you are talking about pouring perfectly good beer down the sink!

Aaaagh!

It must be some horrible mass market crap you drink. All that can go down the sink as far as I'm concerned.

The other thing to consider is the CO2 pressure. I'm assuming in this setup the keg is in the basement. So you're going to have let's say 8' of lift in the line. Your CO2 pressure in the keg will need to be upped accordingly to maintain flow rates at the faucet. If your line is uninsulated, as the beer warms your CO2 is going to come out of solution. With the heat exchanger in the fridge much of that CO2 will go back into solution before it comes out of the faucet, but it'll still be overpressurized a bit until the cold beer flows all the way through. Without the heat exchanger, that first glass will be blowing beer foam.

An option here is to run a custom CO2 / NI gas mix instead of straight CO2. That will allow you to run a higher pressure to lift the beer and will result in the proper CO2 level at the faucet.

Take, for example, this guy. He's got a swank setup but it still blows foam: Effect of lift on pressure settings - Keg Beer Dispensing Discussion Forum - Kegerator

This was a good fail and a fantastic recovery.

How do you like the competition mounts?

:rofl: nice recovery next take the speed limiter of your miata

OMG if you even look to do that u fail agian

To be clear, they aren't the competition mounts, they're the mazdaspeed mounts. Supposed to be 35% stiffer than the normal ones. Flyin Miata has the competition mounts, got these from Corksport.

Haven't driven the car yet so can't report on any differences. Only just now got the driver's side swapped out. Got to get that all bolted up then start on the new clutch installation. Old clutch and everything else is all out, should be straight reassembly from this point forward.

Although I hear this bandied about a great deal, I'm not sure that there is such a thing as "Mazdaspeed Mounts." So far as I know, the MSM got the same engine mounts as all the rest of 'em, and the only alternative offered by Mazda are the MazdaComp mounts.

Link anyone?

FWIW, I have the MazdaComp mounts on my daily driver. They're honestly quite civil. The first time I fired it up, I could detect a bit more vibration at idle, but now I don't even notice it anymore.

My only experience with miata motor mounts has been with these two pair. The new ones have two differences that I can see. First, the studs are slightly offset. The originals are in-line. Second, these are shaped slightly differently. The originals have one curved and one straight side, these have two curved sides. Flyin Miata has a picture of the comp mounts. I'll have to compare them; I'll compare later when I'm on a real computer.

Fwiw my original mounts were in pretty good shape. Very slightly cracked but not obviously compressed or torn. I think the major contributor. To sloppy shifting was the lose bolts on the control housing (the turret the shifter bolts to), and low fluid, also due to those loose bolts.