Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1498565)
NB lower U-joint will fit the NA shaft. That's what I have done on all the NB>NA swaps I've done.
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NA tie rod ends work just fine. The FUCA balljoint is longer to accommodate the deeper NB taper pocket, and the NB steering arm point on the spindle is lifted, but you can bolt the NA tie rod end to it. In fact, that's the preferred setup for lowered cars. I can't recall where I read this, but IIRC Bob Bundy did the math and said that an NB subframe/rack/spindle setup with 93LE/94R tie rod ends produced nearly zero bumpsteer all the way to full bump travel.
To swap an NB subframe into an NA, you need these parts and only these parts (and why you need them):
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1498638)
NA tie rod ends work just fine. The FUCA balljoint is longer to accommodate the deeper NB taper pocket, and the NB steering arm point on the spindle is lifted, but you can bolt the NA tie rod end to it. In fact, that's the preferred setup for lowered cars. I can't recall where I read this, but IIRC Bob Bundy did the math and said that an NB subframe/rack/spindle setup with 93LE/94R tie rod ends produced nearly zero bumpsteer all the way to full bump travel.
To swap an NB subframe into an NA, you need these parts and only these parts (and why you need them):
I just got screwed last night on the U-joint to the steering shaft. For that part number: NC10-32-850 hooks it all up. I mean you posted it on your list, but I found out last night, as it wasn't listed anywhere else. Not here, not on M.Net or even the Grassroots Forum. It is in 2 out 3 now! |
Oop, yes. I misread. Yes, the NB inner tie rods are different and correspond to the rack. I thought you said you needed NB outer tie rod ends, which is not the case. :)
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Make sure you get NB-style inner tie rod end retention washers. It’s nice to avoid reusing them. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1498641)
Oop, yes. I misread. Yes, the NB inner tie rods are different and correspond to the rack. I thought you said you needed NB outer tie rod ends, which is not the case. :)
Originally Posted by afm
(Post 1498657)
Make sure you get NB-style inner tie rod end retention washers. It’s nice to avoid reusing them. |
Now that I think of it my NB rack came with the U joint and I used that one on the NA shaft because I couldnt get the NA u-joint off the rack.
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You will want NB knuckles as well. Bump steer is crazy with NA knuckles on an NB sub frame. Yes the knuckles are different. I think the best setup is all NB front end with LE tie rod ends for an aggressively lowered car.
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Originally Posted by bbundy
(Post 1499033)
You will want NB knuckles as well. Bump steer is crazy with NA knuckles on an NB sub frame. Yes the knuckles are different. I think the best setup is all NB front end with LE tie rod ends for an aggressively lowered car.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1499064)
I distinctly remember reading a post by you saying that you had measured the bumpsteer with that combo (NB subframe/spindles + NA LE tie rods) and it was ~1/16" from static ride height to full bump.
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I added LE tie rods to the NB subframe last year after reading Bob’s findings. Thanks Bob! If class rules allow adding a NB subframe is well worth the effort. I paid $300 for a complete assembly. Pretty easy install too. |
Originally Posted by k24madness
(Post 1499399)
I added LE tie rods to the NB subframe last year after reading Bob’s findings. Thanks Bob! If class rules allow adding a NB subframe is well worth the effort. I paid $300 for a complete assembly. Pretty easy install too. |
And the NA steering column intermediate shaft won't work on the NB U-joint... If one tries to buy part NC10-32-090D new, is NLA. You then have to buy NC10-32-100D and new that one is oer $350, but used is less than $40 for both, thank GOD!
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I believe that's false. I read that on M.net before I did Rover's swap, so I ordered the NB intermediate shaft too. It's identical to the NA one. I then skipped it when I ordered the swap parts for my current customer S1/ST4 build, and it worked just fine. NA column, NA intermediate shaft, NB lower universal, NB rack.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1499901)
I believe that's false. I read that on M.net before I did Rover's swap, so I ordered the NB intermediate shaft too. It's identical to the NA one. I then skipped it when I ordered the swap parts for my current customer S1/ST4 build, and it worked just fine. NA column, NA intermediate shaft, NB lower universal, NB rack.
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https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...me-swap-62426/
Darn it, right here is spelled out that the NB steering IMS is needed. Gosh darn it. :slap: |
Post #19 from Doward says the u-joint is required, but not the shaft. The shaft is the long metal thing with the male splines, the u-joint is the bendy thing with female splines.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1499910)
Post #19 from Doward says the u-joint is required, but not the shaft. The shaft is the long metal thing with the male splines, the u-joint is the bendy thing with female splines.
I may just be tired, which I am, and in no way I'm trying to argue, just confused, that's all! |
Yes, but it has nothing to do with an incorrect length as you alluded to. The length is correct, the spline diameter is just larger on the NB rack. You need the NB u-joint for the diameter, not the length.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 1499913)
Yes, but it has nothing to do with an incorrect length as you alluded to. The length is correct, the spline diameter is just larger on the NB rack. You need the NB u-joint for the diameter, not the length.
Should I unbolt the rack, plug the u-joint to the shaft, and bolt the rack back? Sorry for all the stupid q's, but I'm at a loss here! |
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